z89101 wrote:
We need the gray water tank and its sensor.
We need the gray water tank and its sensor.
Welcome.
Gray water or black water? Gray water is soapy water from sinks and tub/shower but never from the toilet. Black water tanks are usually directly under the toilet and may also hold gray water.
Try Icon Direct in Canada. They're the retail outlet for the manufacturer. Some Lower 48 dealers carry Icon tanks but I found it easiest and cheapest to order from Icon Direct. (Their shipping to Alaska was much, much more reasonable than Lower 48 dealers -- some wanted more for shipping than for the tank itself.)
Other possibilities include marine holding tanks.
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A
regis101 wrote:
Buttoned up the water system recently. Checked for leaks and whatnot. Installed a new terlet. Got new white water hose, 90* fitting and a pressure regulator for the city side.
Fresh water tank and associated hoses are 40 yr old. Dunno what to do about that. Hoses are easy enough to replace but I'm not sure about the tank itself. Found a place on line with exact size requirements for a couple hun. Jury is out on this but the funds are there.
Just ordered a 15' sewer hose kit from amazon with an extra 45* and 90* fitting that goes on the RV side since the tank outlet is on the passenger side rear and points rearward. I have to add the 8' or so extra sewer hose length since most CG hookups are on the driver side. Maybe I'll hard pipe something over to the divers side rear later down the line.
Picked up a new single bowl bar sink and faucet kit from Lowes. Tomorrow I'll start with the galley remodel. Keeping it simple. Actually going to gain some floor sq ft.
I scheduled a trip to the local CG in mid-october as the maiden voyage. The site has water, sewer and electric.
Last on the list is to remove and clean the upholstery. My guess is that it will disintegrate while washing. One side is vinyl so I'll have to use that until new upholstery is made.
Buttoned up the water system recently. Checked for leaks and whatnot. Installed a new terlet. Got new white water hose, 90* fitting and a pressure regulator for the city side.
Fresh water tank and associated hoses are 40 yr old. Dunno what to do about that. Hoses are easy enough to replace but I'm not sure about the tank itself. Found a place on line with exact size requirements for a couple hun. Jury is out on this but the funds are there.
Just ordered a 15' sewer hose kit from amazon with an extra 45* and 90* fitting that goes on the RV side since the tank outlet is on the passenger side rear and points rearward. I have to add the 8' or so extra sewer hose length since most CG hookups are on the driver side. Maybe I'll hard pipe something over to the divers side rear later down the line.
Picked up a new single bowl bar sink and faucet kit from Lowes. Tomorrow I'll start with the galley remodel. Keeping it simple. Actually going to gain some floor sq ft.
I scheduled a trip to the local CG in mid-october as the maiden voyage. The site has water, sewer and electric.
Last on the list is to remove and clean the upholstery. My guess is that it will disintegrate while washing. One side is vinyl so I'll have to use that until new upholstery is made.
The vinyl bottom upholstery... Ours near 37 years old and seemed ok to me. My wife gave me THAT look, and without a word removed them from my arms and pushed them into a large garbage bag and put them out on the end of the driveway - 12 cushions are now gone.
I am ok with the smell of dead fish and crusty boat cushions.. She is not. Humm.
Oh, the fresh water - a bit of bleach is the solution - the web is full of ratios of chlorine and water, the flushing and the hold times...
Nice find. Seriously nice find. Try rvdoctorgeorge.com for the missing fridge bits - they have warehouses full. Go to the website, call them. They'll tell you if they have 2 or 200 and what the price is, depending upon condition.
'73 Concord 20' Class A w/Dodge 440 - see profile for photo
Griff in Fairbanks wrote:
Three things on the radiator:
1. Does it have a fan shroud? A lot of times, the OEM shroud gets broken or otherwise doesn't get replaced. The shroud is necessary to getting good airflow through the radiator.
Yes.
2. The coolers in front of the radiator aren't helping. If you can get rid of them, or at least move them out of the way, do so.
Thinking about this step...
3. The person who re-cored the radiator may have used the wrong core or may have installed it incorrectly. (Did the overheat problem show up as soon as the radiator was installed or later?) Otherwise, something may be blocking some of the radiator tubes. Use an infrared thermometer to spot check various areas on the radiator's surface to make sure coolant is flowing through all the radiator. (I'm not sure but I'd guess there shouldn't be more than 10 or 20 degrees difference between areas.)
Haven't hit anything but the top with a gun yet, but I've had the problem since day one. The radiator was recored by Weller Automotive.
As for the cabover, I don't have a garage so I do most of my work outdoors in the summer. Being in interior Alaska, that means 3-5 months maximum, with large tarps when it rains (about half the time). I tend to build small components in the winter in my 12'x12' shop or house and assemble them outdoors during the summer. (I'm working on getting more space but will still need to work outdoors sometimes.) I also have to plan for cooler temperatures (below freezing) because some materials don't cure as well.
Three things on the radiator:
1. Does it have a fan shroud? A lot of times, the OEM shroud gets broken or otherwise doesn't get replaced. The shroud is necessary to getting good airflow through the radiator.
Yes.
2. The coolers in front of the radiator aren't helping. If you can get rid of them, or at least move them out of the way, do so.
Thinking about this step...
3. The person who re-cored the radiator may have used the wrong core or may have installed it incorrectly. (Did the overheat problem show up as soon as the radiator was installed or later?) Otherwise, something may be blocking some of the radiator tubes. Use an infrared thermometer to spot check various areas on the radiator's surface to make sure coolant is flowing through all the radiator. (I'm not sure but I'd guess there shouldn't be more than 10 or 20 degrees difference between areas.)
Haven't hit anything but the top with a gun yet, but I've had the problem since day one. The radiator was recored by Weller Automotive.
As for the cabover, I don't have a garage so I do most of my work outdoors in the summer. Being in interior Alaska, that means 3-5 months maximum, with large tarps when it rains (about half the time). I tend to build small components in the winter in my 12'x12' shop or house and assemble them outdoors during the summer. (I'm working on getting more space but will still need to work outdoors sometimes.) I also have to plan for cooler temperatures (below freezing) because some materials don't cure as well.
-Answers above
I am in the same boat. Without a garage or indoor workspace, it's hard to do large projects. Worse... we really use ours all 'season' long. From the time the snow melts, until it starts falling again. We definitely have gotten our camping money's worth from the RV.
Griff in Fairbanks wrote:
Welcome.
Gray water or black water? Gray water is soapy water from sinks and tub/shower but never from the toilet. Black water tanks are usually directly under the toilet and may also hold gray water.
Try Icon Direct in Canada. They're the retail outlet for the manufacturer. Some Lower 48 dealers carry Icon tanks but I found it easiest and cheapest to order from Icon Direct. (Their shipping to Alaska was much, much more reasonable than Lower 48 dealers -- some wanted more for shipping than for the tank itself.)
Other possibilities include marine holding tanks.
z89101 wrote:
We need the gray water tank and its sensor.
We need the gray water tank and its sensor.
Welcome.
Gray water or black water? Gray water is soapy water from sinks and tub/shower but never from the toilet. Black water tanks are usually directly under the toilet and may also hold gray water.
Try Icon Direct in Canada. They're the retail outlet for the manufacturer. Some Lower 48 dealers carry Icon tanks but I found it easiest and cheapest to order from Icon Direct. (Their shipping to Alaska was much, much more reasonable than Lower 48 dealers -- some wanted more for shipping than for the tank itself.)
Other possibilities include marine holding tanks.
gray(black is aok so far). thx for link.
pricey - aok - but I need factory specs for fitment - otherwise I will find a sub-$100 35ish gallon tank and rig gastank straps. :-) Seriously, 300 bucks plus is a best estimate - I do not have the original for specs - a tire blow out decades ago cracked it and that was that, per PO/
z89101 wrote:
Hello - 1st timer -
1979 ( really a 1978) Pre-Chrysler bailout LINDY 26' bunkhouse on CB300 chassis 440-3 motor. I think I got that part right. Oh, does anyone know the trans id and the rear axle id - ratios? On with the disclosure...
16.5 rims - oh hell..
brakes good, all mech good.so far - r-12 leaked out of a/c engine system back in the 80's - the system pulls vacuum for 15 minutes, so once the need for an oil charge can be determined, in goes the legal Freon stuff.
53k miles - all factory stickers intact everywhere- all wires soft and hard parts not cracked.
no burn marks on back/bottom of refrig propane chimney.
Oven propane burner shows zero use - no discoloration or shine on flame propagator -
Mileage affirmed, condition impressive, and design incredible! 7 sleeping berths w/o using the dining area - excellent bathroom, and then I drove it -
Exceptional - smooth, no vibes or shudders, tracks perfect, comfortable over road damage and seams, potholes do not shake - all the bushings are still doing the job. What a time warp. Vapor lock issue as addressed? Not so - gas filter boiling (glass and end cap model) near the exhaust manifold - dang... and 50% clogged..
Hello - 1st timer -
1979 ( really a 1978) Pre-Chrysler bailout LINDY 26' bunkhouse on CB300 chassis 440-3 motor. I think I got that part right. Oh, does anyone know the trans id and the rear axle id - ratios? On with the disclosure...
16.5 rims - oh hell..
brakes good, all mech good.so far - r-12 leaked out of a/c engine system back in the 80's - the system pulls vacuum for 15 minutes, so once the need for an oil charge can be determined, in goes the legal Freon stuff.
53k miles - all factory stickers intact everywhere- all wires soft and hard parts not cracked.
no burn marks on back/bottom of refrig propane chimney.
Oven propane burner shows zero use - no discoloration or shine on flame propagator -
Mileage affirmed, condition impressive, and design incredible! 7 sleeping berths w/o using the dining area - excellent bathroom, and then I drove it -
Exceptional - smooth, no vibes or shudders, tracks perfect, comfortable over road damage and seams, potholes do not shake - all the bushings are still doing the job. What a time warp. Vapor lock issue as addressed? Not so - gas filter boiling (glass and end cap model) near the exhaust manifold - dang... and 50% clogged..
Hey Mike, it sounds like you found a real jewel here. The 16.5 inch rims and fridge door seem like minor issue's. Truck salvage yards are your friends for rims, or, I understand some stores still carry 16.5 tires.
If your fridge door is wonky, you might look into upgrading the fridge.
I'm sure somebody may come along with a better plan, but meanwhile I just wanted to congratulate you for finding a good MH.
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/smile.gif "smile")
Downsizing ">
Leeann wrote:
Welcome!
Nice find. Seriously nice find. Try rvdoctorgeorge.com for the missing fridge bits - they have warehouses full. Go to the website, call them. They'll tell you if they have 2 or 200 and what the price is, depending upon condition.
Welcome!
Nice find. Seriously nice find. Try rvdoctorgeorge.com for the missing fridge bits - they have warehouses full. Go to the website, call them. They'll tell you if they have 2 or 200 and what the price is, depending upon condition.
thank you !
Mike
z89101 (Mike) - gray water is fairly easy to deal with, although you might want to check state regulations regarding disposal. Restaurant supply stores often have relatively inexpensive 5 gallon plastic jugs that might work for you. (Black water tanks have to meet more strict regulations.)
I'm 99.9% sure your transmission is an A727 TorqueFlite/LoadFlite ... probably one of the best automatics ever made ... ****-near bullet-proof as long as you change the fluid and filter once a year and keep the fluid topped off. I've put various ones through some extreme uses and the only time I've had to rebuild one was due to the previous owner running it dry. (I've seen one A727 in a 5-ton truck that was original and continued through four engine rebuilds without having to be rebuilt itself.)
The big block A727 has a different case then the small block version. Internal components are the same, with slight variations based on the vehicle they're going into. The big block A727s are getting to be fairly rare, mostly because a lot of them (esoecially from motorhomes) were taken to be used in race- and drag-cars. I mostly work in small block Mopars but I'm tempted to find one or two spares just in case I run across a need for one. (My daughter has one of the very rare early-60s pushbutton versions ... case is different but internals are mostly the same as yours.)
One change I do like to make on A727s is an aftermarket extra-capacity oil pan. (Oil pan and filter is the same for big and small block versions.)
Your rear axle is probably a Dana/Spicer 70. On the right (passenger-side) tube is a build number stamped into the tube which can be used to determine exactly which version you have. The only way to definitely know your ratio is to count the driveshaft/wheel revolutions or the teeth on the ring and pinion gears. (I don't trust any tags -- or even the build number -- because someone may have re-geared it.
The wet bath sink and shower drain is plumbed into the black water discharge pipe apparatus after the black tank shut off valve and can be closed off with a second two inch valve.
I'm thinking the habit is going to be to either keep both valves open or not to open the wet bath valve until taking a shower. The bath sink cannot then be used also.
I don't have black tank level monitors so I'd have to keep an eye on usage .
Also, I have read about and watched about refreshing of the white water system. No harm in looking into the tank to see whats alive in there. The bleach and or baking soda solutions should probably be done as a maintenance item anyway.
Work in progress
Regarding an earlier post, I tried real hard to change over to the 16's but it didn't work out within my time frame. So I pulled the trigger on seven of the 16.5's from Firestone.
These will work forever and a day and I feel totally safe with them. Nice tire. I will be finding myself checking pressure more often but as long as more than 40# are in there I have no fears. The mudder boyz who air down to the teens have the most trouble. But at that , even a safety bead rim can pop when down low. Just my thoughts.
Peace. ~RL
Max pressure provides better traction on ice and improves gas mileage.
Wear should be even across the tire tread. More wear on the outside edges indicates under-inflation and more wear down the tread center indicates over-inflation.
Uneven wear on the front tires indicates alignment problems. There's lots of info on the web on how to spot and diagnose alignment problems.
The frontend alignment for my '77 B200 didn't match the book. A friend, who really knew how to dial-in a vehicle, determine the proper alignment specifications for my particular vehicle and wrote them on the frame in white grease pencil. A tire dealer realigned the front end to factory spec's, even though I'd written the spec's in the service order, with directions to follow those spec's written in large, bold letters. The dealer wound up giving me a new set of tires after 3,000 miles because the factory spec's caused the tires to be worn to the plies that quickly. (I pointed out that complaints to the manufacturer and BBB, as well as a civil suit, would be detrimental to his franchise.)
Rear ends can also be misaligned, causing the vehicle to "crab" as it runs down the road. This eats up both the tires and gas mileage, as well as making the vehicle much, much harder to control on ice. Easiest way to check rear end alignment is to measure the distance between the outsides of the axle to a single point midway between the frames towards the front of the vehicle. The measurements should be the same for both sides of the axle.