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Topic: How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks on 07/21/15 08:57pm

regis101 wrote:

Group 34 appears to lean toward AGM style. Optima keeps coming up.
Dunno, yet, how this style fares with vehicle alternator doing the charging

Just fine ... AGM is just an improvement over standard lead/acid batteries, while being significantly more resistant to vibration and shock damage.

(I'll be discussing this area when I continue electrical systems posts.)


1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A



Posted By: Ballenxj on 07/21/15 09:04pm

Griff in Fairbanks wrote:

regis101 wrote:

Optima Group 34 might fit.

Vapor lock usually occurs due to heat, if memory serves.


Yes, it does. However, the fact it happens above 45 mph leads me to believe the OEM pump is sucking air in through a small leak in the fuel line. (Increased RPMs means the OEM pump is running harder, possibly drawing in more air due to increased suction.)

Air being drawn into the fuel line will act just like a vapor lock.

Now THIS makes sense! Thanks Griff. [emoticon]


Downsizing ">


Posted By: toedtoes on 07/21/15 09:10pm

FYI: I have an Optima Group 24 (red top) in my Clipper engine and an Optima Group 31 (blue top) in the house. I had to turn the house battery sideways to fit in the compartment, but it works great. I can go out for 4 days (water pump on 24/7 and lights on as needed with occasional electronics recharge and mp3 player and speakers running on it) and not put a dent in it.


1975 American Clipper RV with Dodge 360 (photo in profile)
1998 American Clipper Fold n Roll Folding Trailer
Both born in Morgan Hill, CA to Irv Perch (Daddy of the Aristocrat trailers)


Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks on 07/22/15 05:07pm

Ballenxj wrote:

Griff in Fairbanks wrote:

regis101 wrote:

Optima Group 34 might fit.

Vapor lock usually occurs due to heat, if memory serves.


Yes, it does. However, the fact it happens above 45 mph leads me to believe the OEM pump is sucking air in through a small leak in the fuel line. (Increased RPMs means the OEM pump is running harder, possibly drawing in more air due to increased suction.)

Air being drawn into the fuel line will act just like a vapor lock.

Now THIS makes sense! Thanks Griff. [emoticon]

You're welcome.

regis101 mentioned another potential cause of the fuel problem that's worth looking at -- old, dirty, partially clogged fuel filter.

I tend to overlook potential filter problems because they tend to be the first thing people replace when they try to fix things. Also, I tend to subconsciously assume people replace their filters regularly like I do.

Actually, I tend to replace filters more often than necessary because I like to make sure everything has clean fluid and fuel. Also, the relatively minor cost of new filters heads off potential problems that are easy to avoid.

Another possibility is a faulty (or missing) fuel pressure regulator or bad carburetor float. The mechanical fuel pump creates more pressure as RPMs increase, forcing more fuel through the carburetor than the engine needs. This may not be enough flooding to kill the engine but will cause it to bog down.


Posted By: VintageMopar on 07/22/15 06:15pm

I concur with the fuel delivery causes listed, the sucking fuel hose is very astute, but a carb that has been filled/dried out many times gets a lot of sediment deposits that muck it up.
Several carburetor issues can cause the symptoms you described
Inoperative power enrichment circuit in carburetor can cause fuel starving under load at that speed.
Also a clogged main venturi nozzle, pickup tube or restricted main jet. Enough fuel getting by one jet, not enough to feed it under load or higher speeds


Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks on 07/22/15 06:34pm

VintageMopar wrote:

I concur with the fuel delivery causes listed, the sucking fuel hose is very astute, but a carb that has been filled/dried out many times gets a lot of sediment deposits that muck it up.
Several carburetor issues can cause the symptoms you described
Inoperative power enrichment circuit in carburetor can cause fuel starving under load at that speed.
Also a clogged main venturi nozzle, pickup tube or restricted main jet. Enough fuel getting by one jet, not enough to feed it under load or higher speeds

Ya'll keep reminding me of other problems I've run across (and may have mentioned previously in this thread.)

The alcohol in ethanol gasoline and yellow Heet tends to eat up the seals in older carburetors. I rebuilt a Carter BBD carburetor multiple times before finding out our regular use of yellow Heet in our '77 B200 van was causing problems. (Carter BBDs were used on Dodge LA small block engines in the '60s and '70s.)

Most rebuild kits now include alcohol resistant seals.


Posted By: regis101 on 07/22/15 06:51pm

Regarding the above, As with any problem, I like to start with the simple and work up to the hard.

New inquiry from a newbie. Soza, let's say I wake up one day and want to change the rear tires. How do I achieve the 300-350# torque setting for the 5/8" stud. Must I buy a super duper torque wrench?


Peace. ~RL


Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks on 07/22/15 07:19pm

regis101 wrote:

Regarding the above, As with any problem, I like to start with the simple and work up to the hard.

New inquiry from a newbie. Soza, let's say I wake up one day and want to change the rear tires. How do I achieve the 300-350# torque setting for the 5/8" stud. Must I buy a super duper torque wrench?

That torque seems a bit excessive ... okay, a lot excessive.

Are you sure you don't have reverse threaded wheel studs and lug nuts? This "small" fact has bitten me, as well as many, many others. (In my case, it lead to the unnecessary purchase of a very nice, heavy duty impact wrench ... not that I'm complaining.)

You could use a cheater bar on your wrench. (i.e., a four to six foot length of pipe that fits over the end of your wrench and allows you to increase your leverage.) However, this often leads to bent or broken wrenches.

Best is probably buy a lug nut wrench made for use on medium- and heavy-duty trucks and carry it in your motorhome.

Also, PB Blaster tends to help in this case. (Anti-seize compound is a good idea on all lug nuts but especially in this case ... of course, you've got to get the nuts off first.)


Posted By: regis101 on 07/22/15 07:27pm

Whelp. I'm looking on page 48 of the owners manual and it states that the B300, CB, MB, with 5/8 studs torque at 300-350#.

I searched torque multipliers and found a few user friendly units under one hun bux.

The front is a different rim than the rear duals.

PB Blaster and anti seize is in my arsenal


Posted By: rehoppe on 07/22/15 07:39pm

regis101 wrote:

Whelp. I'm looking on page 48 of the owners manual and it states that the B300, CB, MB, with 5/8 studs torque at 300-350#.

I searched torque multipliers and found a few user friendly units under one hun bux.

The front is a different rim than the rear duals.

PB Blaster and anti seize is in my arsenal


I use Kroil...been using it since I was a kid.


Hoppe
2011 Dodge 1500 C'boy Caddy
2000 Jayco C 28' Ford chassis w V-10 E450
Doghouse 36' or so Trophy Classic TT


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