Does this sound like a decent deal?
Anything else in particular I should look out for at that mileage?
Downsizing ">
The NTM '73 Kodiak needed a tank and carb change just to get it to drive past 1/4 mile from when I first attempted a test drive.
The PO of our rig let me work on it at his place to make it road worthy. Nice of him considering it's been off the road since '08 and I didn't know him from Adam.
In your case, if it's been driven ~regularly, rusty gas may not be an issue.
I'd pick up a ballast resistor for the just in case factor. Good tread on the tires does not mean they are good tires. Sidewall cracks are bad. Ask about the battery age. I found out that these old mopars may need a cleaning of the electrical connector at the firewall located just to the right of the brake booster. Even an unplug and replug can shine things up. Any old car need any old car maintenance and some love.
It doesn't matter what you pay for it; ya just gotta like it.
Just some thoughts.
Peace. ~RL
Start it. Dodge starting procedure cold was to pump the accelerator once then turn the key. After 30 secs (or a min, can't remember now), push the accelerator halfway once. The idle should reduce.
How smooth is the idle? How easy did it start? Can you see or smell oil? Now test drive it if they allow it - how do the shifts feel? How about engine power? How're the brakes?
Now check the fridge, heater, AC unit, water pump....everything. Check the walls, inside the compartments, every nook and cranny you can see - any evidence of leaking? If so, is it ancient or current? Smell any mold?
Start the genset (mine is an Onan 4.0 CCK - it runs at 1800 RPM for just about eternity. Great genset). Once running, put a load on it (AC, fans, everything you can turn on). Does it run steady, do the lights flicker, etc?
I bought mine on eBay, so sight unseen. Luckily for me, everything worked. I had to put new belts on it (they were trashed), replace the ballast resistor, put a qt of oil in and put gas in it, then I drove it 3 hrs home (my hubby did have to adjust the carb - whomever rebuilt it reassembled it incorrectly). I had cap, rotor, plugs, wires and coil with me but I didn't need them to get it home. It was pretty cold so I wasn't going to stand outside any longer than necessary.
Basically, inspect it like you would any other vehicle, then inspect it like you would any other house.
'73 Concord 20' Class A w/Dodge 440 - see profile for photo
Dimensions are 10 w x 8 deep x 9 high.
Kinda seems that a group 24 won't fit, at least with Trojan's specs.
Am I missing something?
Then again, maybe not since the outside door uses dzus fasteners.
I suppose I can mod the box to accept a group 24 at a minimum.
Leeann wrote:
Check that everything runs. It could have 52k...or it could have 152k (etc). And yes, 727 but LoadFlite instead of TorqueFlite (heavier duty).
Basically, inspect it like you would any other vehicle, then inspect it like you would any other house.
Check that everything runs. It could have 52k...or it could have 152k (etc). And yes, 727 but LoadFlite instead of TorqueFlite (heavier duty).
Basically, inspect it like you would any other vehicle, then inspect it like you would any other house.
Thanks Leeann & regis101.
I haven't had the chance to inspect or drive it yet, but I talked to the guy on the phone this evening. He said it runs like a champ, but vapor locks at anything over 45 mph when it's hot out. :/
That has me wondering. I would expect that if a guy wants to sell his MH he would have everything squared away?
regis101 wrote:
So. Older Dodge. Measured the aux battery box that I'm thinking is existing. Has 10 ga wiring. Coach does not have a lot of amperage draw anyway.
Dimensions are 10 w x 8 deep x 9 high.
Kinda seems that a group 24 won't fit, at least with Trojan's specs.
Am I missing something?
Then again, maybe not since the outside door uses dzus fasteners.
I suppose I can mod the box to accept a group 24 at a minimum.
So. Older Dodge. Measured the aux battery box that I'm thinking is existing. Has 10 ga wiring. Coach does not have a lot of amperage draw anyway.
Dimensions are 10 w x 8 deep x 9 high.
Kinda seems that a group 24 won't fit, at least with Trojan's specs.
Am I missing something?
Then again, maybe not since the outside door uses dzus fasteners.
I suppose I can mod the box to accept a group 24 at a minimum.
No, a Group 24 won't fit. I checked the Battery Council International (BCI) table I downloaded and Group 24 batteries are supposed to be 10-1/4L x 6-13/16W x 8-7/8H. The box you have isn't long enough and the height is too close to the terminals.
It's possible your box is designed for two deep cycle 6VDC batteries wired in series to yield 12VDC. If so, this is actually a good thing because these are true deep cycle batteries, designed to keep commercial equipment like lifts running all day. (I'm seriously considering using these in my motorhome.
I'll do more looking and get back to you with possible batteries. (Kinda busy right now.)
In the meanwhile, check the construction of the battery box. If there's signs corrosive gases have compromised the box, I'd consider replacing it. Likewise, make sure it has adequate ventilation. (Batteries can generate hydrogen gas, which is the most flammable substance in the universe.)
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A
Just measured the box again. 11" high. Odd size box, imo.
I have no problems with modifying the box since it's access is from outside and it rests under the dinette just behind the drivers seat.
Maybe throw in a Group 27 and be done with it.
Ballenxj wrote:
Thanks Leeann & regis101.
I haven't had the chance to inspect or drive it yet, but I talked to the guy on the phone this evening. He said it runs like a champ, but vapor locks at anything over 45 mph when it's hot out. :/
That has me wondering. I would expect that if a guy wants to sell his MH he would have everything squared away?
Leeann wrote:
Check that everything runs. It could have 52k...or it could have 152k (etc). And yes, 727 but LoadFlite instead of TorqueFlite (heavier duty).
Basically, inspect it like you would any other vehicle, then inspect it like you would any other house.
Check that everything runs. It could have 52k...or it could have 152k (etc). And yes, 727 but LoadFlite instead of TorqueFlite (heavier duty).
Basically, inspect it like you would any other vehicle, then inspect it like you would any other house.
Thanks Leeann & regis101.
I haven't had the chance to inspect or drive it yet, but I talked to the guy on the phone this evening. He said it runs like a champ, but vapor locks at anything over 45 mph when it's hot out. :/
That has me wondering. I would expect that if a guy wants to sell his MH he would have everything squared away?
Not necessarily, if he's willing to reduce the price to offset known problems.
A possible solution to the vapor lock is an electric fuel pump close to the tank(s) and new fuel line. The OEM mechanical fuel pump on the engine sucks, both literally and figuratively, and pull air in through the smallest leak. An electric pump close to the tank uses pressure rather than suction to deliver the fuel, which always more efficient for moving liquids. Unfortunately, if your existing line has any leaks, it will push out fuel instead of sucking in air through the leak(s).
Ballenxj wrote:
Thanks Leeann & regis101.
I haven't had the chance to inspect or drive it yet, but I talked to the guy on the phone this evening. He said it runs like a champ, but vapor locks at anything over 45 mph when it's hot out. :/
That has me wondering. I would expect that if a guy wants to sell his MH he would have everything squared away?
Thanks Leeann & regis101.
I haven't had the chance to inspect or drive it yet, but I talked to the guy on the phone this evening. He said it runs like a champ, but vapor locks at anything over 45 mph when it's hot out. :/
That has me wondering. I would expect that if a guy wants to sell his MH he would have everything squared away?
Vapor lock is common on these. We made it better by removing the mechanical, engine-driven fuel pump and installing electric pumps just outside the tanks (we have three). The tanks feed a three-into-one junction block near the front, which then goes through a fuel pressure regulator and then goes to the carb. Each fuel pump is wired to the switches on the dash so only one fuel pump is running at any given time.
Oh, and my hubby had to re-route the fuel line after the switch; it ran inside the frame rail and would boil pretty quickly. Then he fixed the front air scoop so cool air actually makes it to the radiator. Then we installed a much more efficient, higher CFM flex fan in place of the monster metal one. We next want to put in some tubing/hose/something largeish to route cool air directly on top of the engine for carb cooling. We haven't had vapor lock since, and we've driven on the steep grades PA Tpke in 95° heat.
Griff has plans to use a bilge blower to cool the engine; they're posted in this thread somewhere.