Griff in Fairbanks wrote:
15 amps (the standard household outlet) at 120 volts equals 1800 watts. So, I'd recommend at least a 2400 watt inverter.
Also, even a 300 watt inverter will drain a battery quickly. So, if you're going to try to run 120v appliances off an inverter, you'll need a fairly good battery bank to make it reasonably useful.
Also, a 45 watt solar panel is only putting out 3.3 amps at 13.6 volts, under ideal conditions (aimed correctly under full sunlight). Basically, that solar panel is just a trickle charger.
In a nutshell, think off-grid power systems ... That's what you're looking at if you're thinking along these lines.
Tmmltn wrote:
Nothing works in the coach on 12v, no lights, plugs. There is no propane furnace, and we have not lit any pilots yet. We disconnected and reconnected the battery to do some tests and now the water pump and panel are working properly again. I am starting to think, based on what i recall of the wiring before we re-installed insulation and ceiling panels... that all of the wiring is for 110v.
The power converter seems to test somewhat ok, the lowest reading i got between c and d was 10v while connected to shore and negative lead on battery disconnected. 12v with both leads connected, off shore (from what i understand that just reads the battery).
So, *if* the converter is good, and my electrical does indeed run off 110v... my next question is, what would a small (harbor freight) 45watt solar panel system and 300w inverter do for our system, if anything? (We want better panels, but this is all we have on hand at the moment.)
A 300w inverter won't so squat.Nothing works in the coach on 12v, no lights, plugs. There is no propane furnace, and we have not lit any pilots yet. We disconnected and reconnected the battery to do some tests and now the water pump and panel are working properly again. I am starting to think, based on what i recall of the wiring before we re-installed insulation and ceiling panels... that all of the wiring is for 110v.
The power converter seems to test somewhat ok, the lowest reading i got between c and d was 10v while connected to shore and negative lead on battery disconnected. 12v with both leads connected, off shore (from what i understand that just reads the battery).
So, *if* the converter is good, and my electrical does indeed run off 110v... my next question is, what would a small (harbor freight) 45watt solar panel system and 300w inverter do for our system, if anything? (We want better panels, but this is all we have on hand at the moment.)
15 amps (the standard household outlet) at 120 volts equals 1800 watts. So, I'd recommend at least a 2400 watt inverter.
Also, even a 300 watt inverter will drain a battery quickly. So, if you're going to try to run 120v appliances off an inverter, you'll need a fairly good battery bank to make it reasonably useful.
Also, a 45 watt solar panel is only putting out 3.3 amps at 13.6 volts, under ideal conditions (aimed correctly under full sunlight). Basically, that solar panel is just a trickle charger.
In a nutshell, think off-grid power systems ... That's what you're looking at if you're thinking along these lines.
This is what we figured, so, i need to save for new panels and inverter now.
I go to them when I have questions, need someone to look over my (sometimes screwball) schemes, and get quality parts. (I always have them make my battery cables because they use arctic grade components.)
They have a lot of info on their site and you might want to ask them about consultation fees.
BTW - Most remote, off-grid systems up here use a generator, large battery bank, solar panels, and inverters. We also use propane refrigerators and stoves to minimize electrical requirements.
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A
Quote:
This is what we figured, so, I need to save for new panels and inverter now.
This is what we figured, so, I need to save for new panels and inverter now.
A new gas/12vdc refer will be much cheaper. Otherwise you will need about 6 batteries (around $1200) PLUS the solar panels and a inverter (probably another $2000-3000).
A new refer isn't cheap at around $900, but it is way cheaper than the alternative. The refer runs almost entirely on gas with just a little 12vdc to run the controller.
I also upgraded my converter to a Progressive Dynamics Intellipower Converter/Charger with Charge Wizard (smart charger so it won't boil your batteries). I got a great deal on a refurb 45 amp 9100 series and got the Charge Wizard add-on for less than the comparable 9200 series, but the 9200 series comes with the Charge Wizard built in. That's the next-best $ I spent on my RV. Our original converter was frightening, not nearly as nice as yours. Open wires, metal blade switch...a fire waiting to happen.
'73 Concord 20' Class A w/Dodge 440 - see profile for photo
You're much luckier than me. My refer is very narrow and I have been looking for a used replacement for about 5 years. There is only one model that will fit, otherwise I have to tear out the cabinet and build an entire new one.
There is one new model made specifically to replace my old one, but it is about $900.
74dodgechinook wrote:
Here is a nice pic of the chinook lines repainted. I did them in an appropriate to 1974 avocado color. I like the funkiness of the 70s.![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/smile.gif "smile")
![[image]](https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5570/14926614371_62cf93ab59_b.jpg)
Here is a nice pic of the chinook lines repainted. I did them in an appropriate to 1974 avocado color. I like the funkiness of the 70s.
Very nice!!!
See Picture In My Profile
I have a 1989 Dodge XPLORER RV Class B - Purchased 10/15/10 IN CASH
Fiance' purchased a Class C 2002 Dynamax Carri-go on 5/1/15 IN CASH
We've got the best of both worlds
TreeSeeker wrote:
Leeann,
You're much luckier than me. My refer is very narrow and I have been looking for a used replacement for about 5 years. There is only one model that will fit, otherwise I have to tear out the cabinet and build an entire new one.
There is one new model made specifically to replace my old one, but it is about $900.
Leeann,
You're much luckier than me. My refer is very narrow and I have been looking for a used replacement for about 5 years. There is only one model that will fit, otherwise I have to tear out the cabinet and build an entire new one.
There is one new model made specifically to replace my old one, but it is about $900.
I bought a Dometic RM66 on Craigslist, which is a 5 cu ft reefer. I'm pretty sure from the opening that it originally had a 7 cu ft, but the PO had replaced it with a tall dorm fridge (held in with a bungie. Yeah, a bungie) My hubby, then bf, just made it fit with a couple pieces of luan. I needed the strips both at the top and on the side. You'd think it would have been shorter only, but it was much shorter and slightly narrower. You might look at one of those...it's a pretty danged nice fridge. And RVdoctorgeorge has a ton of replacement parts for them, too, should it be missing anything.
I am trying to find a replacement for my bathroom sink faucet WITHOUT having to change the sink out.
Of course, a standard 4" centerset faucet will NOT work. Nope, must be contrary and be 2-3/4" centerset.
How about a single-hole faucet? Awesome! Nope, the two outer holes are only 3/4" diameter (faucets need about 1-1/2 to 1-3/4 inch diameter holes). the center hole is about half that diameter.
The hose threads are 1/2".
So, if anyone knows where I can get a 2-3/4" centerset faucet needing only 3/4" diameter outer holes, PLEASE let me know!
I'm currently checking out marine supplies for something.
Thanks a lot!
1975 American Clipper RV with Dodge 360 (photo in profile)
1998 American Clipper Fold n Roll Folding Trailer
Both born in Morgan Hill, CA to Irv Perch (Daddy of the Aristocrat trailers)
http://www.rvdoctorgeorge.com/parts