1975 American Clipper RV with Dodge 360 (photo in profile)
1998 American Clipper Fold n Roll Folding Trailer
Both born in Morgan Hill, CA to Irv Perch (Daddy of the Aristocrat trailers)
Tmmltn wrote:
Ok today's discovery, upon putting in a new deep cycle battery, it still does not power on its own. Shore, perfect - we had a regular fan and the fridge running today off our new cord. What should we investigate first?
Ok today's discovery, upon putting in a new deep cycle battery, it still does not power on its own. Shore, perfect - we had a regular fan and the fridge running today off our new cord. What should we investigate first?
I assume the engine starts. Do any of the 12v lights work when you're on shore power?
Look for circuit breakers, fuses, and switches hidden on compartments, under seats. Typically, the engine and coach batteries are somewhat separate circuits.
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A
'73 Concord 20' Class A w/Dodge 440 - see profile for photo
Griff in Fairbanks wrote:
For the small block owners (273, 318, 340, 360):
The combination of an Edelbrock 4-barrel intake and carburetor is just about ideal for motorhomes. If you stay out of the secondaries (!!!), you'll get slightly better gas mileage. The Carter/Edelbrock 4-barrel carburetors have smaller primaries than the old Carter BBD 2-barrel carburetors, In a nut shell, the BBD (and other brand) 2-barrel carburetors had/have to be sized for the maximum engine demand. The primaries on 4-barrel carburetors are sized for typical (cruising) demand and the secondaries kick in when the demand goes up (during acceleration and hill climbing).
Remember, you're driving a big truck, 1-ton or larger. If you want sports car performance, you're in the wrong vehicle. Also, steady, gradual acceleration -- like most sensible truckers use -- is much easier on the gas consumption.
Dual exhaust, especially sized correctly with an H- or X-crossover, will improve performance and fuel mileage. If you want to try headers, find a set of Tri-Y headers. Most of the ones on the market are designed for power at lower RPMs and better gas mileage, which is just what a motorhome needs. They're out there but kinda hard to find and usually have to be special ordered.
Do not, repeat DO NOT, use performance headers of any kind! The stock OEM exhaust manifolds are actually better for motorhome applications. (Almost all headers, except Tri-Y, are designed for high RPMs that you'll never reach.)
An air intake hose from the air cleaner to a source of cool air, like modern vehicles, will also help. (I'm getting older and forgot what they call them ... cold air induction?) If you have a fancy, aftermarket air cleaner, throw it away and get an OEM air cleaner or something similar.
Another trick is to use one or two boat bilge blowers to pump cool air into, or suck hot air out of, the dog house. The carburetor (and fuel) needs to be kept relatively cool for best operation and most doghouses don't provide enough air flow.
For the small block owners (273, 318, 340, 360):
The combination of an Edelbrock 4-barrel intake and carburetor is just about ideal for motorhomes. If you stay out of the secondaries (!!!), you'll get slightly better gas mileage. The Carter/Edelbrock 4-barrel carburetors have smaller primaries than the old Carter BBD 2-barrel carburetors, In a nut shell, the BBD (and other brand) 2-barrel carburetors had/have to be sized for the maximum engine demand. The primaries on 4-barrel carburetors are sized for typical (cruising) demand and the secondaries kick in when the demand goes up (during acceleration and hill climbing).
Remember, you're driving a big truck, 1-ton or larger. If you want sports car performance, you're in the wrong vehicle. Also, steady, gradual acceleration -- like most sensible truckers use -- is much easier on the gas consumption.
Dual exhaust, especially sized correctly with an H- or X-crossover, will improve performance and fuel mileage. If you want to try headers, find a set of Tri-Y headers. Most of the ones on the market are designed for power at lower RPMs and better gas mileage, which is just what a motorhome needs. They're out there but kinda hard to find and usually have to be special ordered.
Do not, repeat DO NOT, use performance headers of any kind! The stock OEM exhaust manifolds are actually better for motorhome applications. (Almost all headers, except Tri-Y, are designed for high RPMs that you'll never reach.)
An air intake hose from the air cleaner to a source of cool air, like modern vehicles, will also help. (I'm getting older and forgot what they call them ... cold air induction?) If you have a fancy, aftermarket air cleaner, throw it away and get an OEM air cleaner or something similar.
Another trick is to use one or two boat bilge blowers to pump cool air into, or suck hot air out of, the dog house. The carburetor (and fuel) needs to be kept relatively cool for best operation and most doghouses don't provide enough air flow.
Jer&Ger wrote:
Hi everyone & welcome to the newcomers. I know someone on here posted the part # for the windshield wiper bushings for the Dodge chassis at some point in the past. I even had it written down until I sold my old RV. Does anyone remember what it was. I did a search for it with no results & I need them. Thanks in advance for any help. Jerry
Hi everyone & welcome to the newcomers. I know someone on here posted the part # for the windshield wiper bushings for the Dodge chassis at some point in the past. I even had it written down until I sold my old RV. Does anyone remember what it was. I did a search for it with no results & I need them. Thanks in advance for any help. Jerry
Griff in Fairbanks wrote:
I assume the engine starts. Do any of the 12v lights work when you're on shore power?
Look for circuit breakers, fuses, and switches hidden on compartments, under seats. Typically, the engine and coach batteries are somewhat separate circuits.
Tmmltn wrote:
Ok today's discovery, upon putting in a new deep cycle battery, it still does not power on its own. Shore, perfect - we had a regular fan and the fridge running today off our new cord. What should we investigate first?
Ok today's discovery, upon putting in a new deep cycle battery, it still does not power on its own. Shore, perfect - we had a regular fan and the fridge running today off our new cord. What should we investigate first?
I assume the engine starts. Do any of the 12v lights work when you're on shore power?
Look for circuit breakers, fuses, and switches hidden on compartments, under seats. Typically, the engine and coach batteries are somewhat separate circuits.
Yep it starts and runs, on shore everything except one light wiring worked when i tested them today. I was pretty impressed, actually. All fuses and breakers were checked or replaced prior to new battery, from what we can see everything is good.
The converter was "supposedly" replaced by P.O... so we will look into that one tomorrow.
Thankfully, when we got it, the ceiling was actually removed due to prior water damage. We replaced insulation and put new panels in. I visually inspected all of the wiring at that time and everything looked good (i even took some pictures on my phone for my own reference in tracing future issues, clearly this thread taught me well... document, document, document).
Tmmltn wrote:
Any guess on a page number? I am somewhere in early 500s, going backwards, if i find it i will quote it/bump the info for you.
Any guess on a page number? I am somewhere in early 500s, going backwards, if i find it i will quote it/bump the info for you.
No, I'm afraid I don't have a clue. But maybe you might come across it.. I'll keep looking. According to what I've been told, this is for a MB400 chassis. It was either Trish, LeeAnn, or Griff that posted the numbers if I remember right. Thanks again, Jerry
Jerry & Gerry, our pets (dogs), Byron, Coco
1976 Monaco, 440 ci. Dodge Sportsman chassis
Jer&Ger wrote:
No, I'm afraid I don't have a clue. But maybe you might come across it.. I'll keep looking. According to what I've been told, this is for a MB400 chassis. It was either Trish, LeeAnn, or Griff that posted the numbers if I remember right. Thanks again, Jerry
There is a little known trick in being able to search this entire forum topic. You convert the web address to a printable file. You can then use the pull down "edit" in Internet Explorer or Firefox and select "find on this page" or the quick key Ctrl F. You can then add this URL to your "favorites" or "bookmark" this web address. http://forums.woodalls.com/index.cfm/fus........ction/thread/tid/14219250/print/true.cfmTmmltn wrote:
Any guess on a page number? I am somewhere in early 500s, going backwards, if i find it i will quote it/bump the info for you.
Any guess on a page number? I am somewhere in early 500s, going backwards, if i find it i will quote it/bump the info for you.
No, I'm afraid I don't have a clue. But maybe you might come across it.. I'll keep looking. According to what I've been told, this is for a MB400 chassis. It was either Trish, LeeAnn, or Griff that posted the numbers if I remember right. Thanks again, Jerry
It will take some time to load all 600 pages into one printable file. I am still a fan of Windows XP.
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/biggrin.gif "biggrin")
2002 Trail-Lite Model 211-S w/5.7 Chevy (click View Profile)
Gene
beniam wrote:
Good Morning, I was wondering if anyone has a source for holding tanks on these old dodges. I have a 1978 Minnie Winnie.24.5 feet..Thanks in advance..ben
Good Morning, I was wondering if anyone has a source for holding tanks on these old dodges. I have a 1978 Minnie Winnie.24.5 feet..Thanks in advance..ben
Icon Technologies Limited (weblink) in Manitoba. That's where I bought mine ... was cheaper to have them send it to me in Alaska than buy one from any of the Lower 48 resellers. (Icon is a manufacturer and, from what I can tell, make many of the tanks used on RVs.)