That is a great Lil Engine if its right.
Without Trucks,....America Stop's
oldtrucker63 wrote:
If it was rebuilt 15K ago, You can pull the valve cover and It should be really clean in there, If not then its not been rebuilt, I agree with the compression test and valve seats/seals The Engine should be fine at only 99K May need a good Cam RV Style and a few gaskets, Change all fluids and dont forget the Transmission fluid and new filter
That is a great Lil Engine if its right.
If it was rebuilt 15K ago, You can pull the valve cover and It should be really clean in there, If not then its not been rebuilt, I agree with the compression test and valve seats/seals The Engine should be fine at only 99K May need a good Cam RV Style and a few gaskets, Change all fluids and dont forget the Transmission fluid and new filter
That is a great Lil Engine if its right.
Tony, hate to have to disagree with you. But I must. That generation of engine, with that much load on it almost always needed an overhaul well before 100K miles.
That's pretty much why we have the head trip of 100k miles on cars and PUs. They just didn't go much beyond that w/o some help. The fact that the engines in our coaches are always loaded every time they fire up shortens their life before overhaul.
Even the last of the 440s and 460s were of that ilk. If you find one with Only 70K on it, be aware that it's probably going to need some work before long. I've just seen too many fail between 70 and 80K.That's why when somebody says, 'Bought it cheap, Going to restore it', my first suggestion is. Do a full diagnosis on the engine and tranny. If they are solid, It counts. Otherwise, it could Well be a scrap project, because the cost of mechanical rebuild is no longer cheap, even if you can do the R&R yourself. Most folks can't even do that, to say nothing of the 'machine work' needed, or the 'Hard' parts.
You are probably one of 10 or 20 on this forum who have the ability And the inclination to participate at this level. I still marvel at your tenaciousness on your rebuild.
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* This post was edited 03/29/12 06:22am by rehoppe *
Hoppe
2011 Dodge 1500 C'boy Caddy
2000 Jayco C 28' Ford chassis w V-10 E450
Doghouse 36' or so Trophy Classic TT
![[image]](https://www.rv.net/SharedContent/cfb/memberphotos/25933586/personal/rvweb.jpg)
As you can see, she needs some work. Weather permitting I'll get started on the exterior upgrades this week.
'73 Concord 20' Class A w/Dodge 440 - see profile for photo
In fact I just did a complete suspension rebuild. Really made a huge difference in ride height and handling. I would wager some of the changes/mods/upgrades could be used on the Class C chassis just a easily.
Here is an article I wrote about it....with pictures!
http://www.thewanderman.com/2012/03/rock-bounce-and-roll-suspension_23.html
This thread has led me to many useful parts sources! Keep posting!!!
Rich "The Wanderman"
1991 Aero Cruiser 23RBa
Read All about my Disasters and Triumphs at:
http://www.thewanderman.com/
gdhillard wrote:
Help! I have a 1973 360 in my 20 foot executive. Milage seems to be about 7-7.5 mpg. Very hard to start, and cold blooded, but better with an electric fuel pump. I am missing some of the exaust crossover connections to the manifold and would guess that needs to be fixed. Should I replumb and clean out the cross over, or just change to an Edelbrock preformer manifold and a 4 bbl edelbrock carb? If I should swap, exactly which manifold and carb should I get? Thank you!
Help! I have a 1973 360 in my 20 foot executive. Milage seems to be about 7-7.5 mpg. Very hard to start, and cold blooded, but better with an electric fuel pump. I am missing some of the exaust crossover connections to the manifold and would guess that needs to be fixed. Should I replumb and clean out the cross over, or just change to an Edelbrock preformer manifold and a 4 bbl edelbrock carb? If I should swap, exactly which manifold and carb should I get? Thank you!
The x over facilitates 'scavenging' from side to side. Helps the low end torque. So yes fix it.
Manifold and carb change. Probably not a good investment. The 2barrel and 2barrel manifold is also set up, with dual plane, for low end torque. The 4barrel manifold probably will not.
In the end, you'd end up with a 'hot rod' engine, when you have and Need a truck engine. Don't get me wrong, you can do the hot rod and make it work. but you'll spend a bunch of money on parts and gasoline to get an appreciable gain.
If you are running at high altitude you may want to go with a larger CFM 2 barrel carb, like the Holley 500... if they are still available, they will give you more air, needed at higher altitudes. Enjoy.
Hard cold start. Clean and lube your automatic choke, and reset it. Also check your accelerator pump (in your carb), for proper 'squirt', it may be dried out and need replacing. I'm guessing you need a 'major' tune up. Plug wires, carb kit, plugs, stator and condenser.
* This post was edited 03/31/12 07:43pm by rehoppe *
Gary
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