Check you timing chain as well. It's done with a timing light. Don't know how many miles are on it, but somewhere between 50 and 70K miles they wear the chain and the sprockets. Use Double roller set to replace.
Hoppe
2011 Dodge 1500 C'boy Caddy
2000 Jayco C 28' Ford chassis w V-10 E450
Doghouse 36' or so Trophy Classic TT
rehoppe wrote:
Sounds like your automatic choke may be sticking a bit.
Check you timing chain as well. It's done with a timing light. Don't know how many miles are on it, but somewhere between 50 and 70K miles they wear the chain and the sprockets. Use Double roller set to replace.
Sounds like your automatic choke may be sticking a bit.
Check you timing chain as well. It's done with a timing light. Don't know how many miles are on it, but somewhere between 50 and 70K miles they wear the chain and the sprockets. Use Double roller set to replace.
Yes, a sticky choke is another possibility. Easy enough to check by removing the doghouse and air cleaner and checking the choke plate position when the engine is cold and once it warms up.
A carb cleaner spray should loosen it up. I also like to give it a shot of graphite lube to keep it from sticking.
I'd rule out all other possibilities before looking to the timing chain. Changing the timing chain and gears involves a lot of work.
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A
I would set the timing as soon as the carb is spraying good, decent spray from the accelerator pump, and choke set up and working. If the timing mark jumps up and down in the light when you blip the throttle, you might as well not fight it. Just replace it. Cause it'll make you think your motor is tired.
Baby steps.
Clean the choke exactly the way Griff said (because it works). Then Seafoam the tank the way Leeann said (because it works).
Then replace the fuel filters and add another. You can't have too many filters.
Also, replace all the rubber fuel lines --one at a time!
Ditto for vacuum lines. I used fuel line in place of vacuum line, it lasts longer.
Do one thing at a time if you want to be certain what your problem is.
CLICKY for 440 & 727
Any thoughts on what I need to do if the shocks on this machine are shot ? Is it something that I could do myself and what its going to end up costing me ? The guy who sold it to me did say that it has some kind of fancy triple core radiator installed and that he had recently replaced the thermostat he said he put a colder one in than whatever was standard I guess he was worried about overheating but the engine seems to never get really warmed up now so, do i need to do something about this ? and one last question sorry, any recommendations on what type of battery I should get for the vehicle ?
Thanks again everyone and sorry i don't get back very quickly I am taking care of 5 kids atm and its about all I can handle.
swatmo wrote:
Thank you very much: Trish, Griff, Leanne, alncory, and rehoppe. I will try things out the way you suggested using the order recommended by Trish. I will let you know how things turn out. Oh yeah... what exactly is a choke plate... is that the main flow regulator inside the carb ? the one that moves back and forth with in depress and release the throttle ? I thought that was the only thing that made any sense, but my friend said the choke is something else entirely. If that is it, could you tell me where to apply the graphite ? around the cylinder or just on the hing part ?
Any thoughts on what I need to do if the shocks on this machine are shot ? Is it something that I could do myself and what its going to end up costing me ? The guy who sold it to me did say that it has some kind of fancy triple core radiator installed and that he had recently replaced the thermostat he said he put a colder one in than whatever was standard I guess he was worried about overheating but the engine seems to never get really warmed up now so, do i need to do something about this ? and one last question sorry, any recommendations on what type of battery I should get for the vehicle ?
Thanks again everyone and sorry i don't get back very quickly I am taking care of 5 kids atm and its about all I can handle.
Thank you very much: Trish, Griff, Leanne, alncory, and rehoppe. I will try things out the way you suggested using the order recommended by Trish. I will let you know how things turn out. Oh yeah... what exactly is a choke plate... is that the main flow regulator inside the carb ? the one that moves back and forth with in depress and release the throttle ? I thought that was the only thing that made any sense, but my friend said the choke is something else entirely. If that is it, could you tell me where to apply the graphite ? around the cylinder or just on the hing part ?
Any thoughts on what I need to do if the shocks on this machine are shot ? Is it something that I could do myself and what its going to end up costing me ? The guy who sold it to me did say that it has some kind of fancy triple core radiator installed and that he had recently replaced the thermostat he said he put a colder one in than whatever was standard I guess he was worried about overheating but the engine seems to never get really warmed up now so, do i need to do something about this ? and one last question sorry, any recommendations on what type of battery I should get for the vehicle ?
Thanks again everyone and sorry i don't get back very quickly I am taking care of 5 kids atm and its about all I can handle.
No, the two plates in the bottom of the carb (one for each of the two barrel bores) are the throttle "valves." These open and close in direct response to the throttle pedal.
The choke plate is located in the top of the carb, directly under the air cleaner. The choke may move some in response to the pedal because it is interconnected with the throttle linkage.
I will post some pictures shortly that should clarify this.
Put the graphite anywhere there are parts moving against each other. Especially where the pivot rods pass through the carb body. A small "puff" of graphite on the outside, while the engine is running, will cause a little bit of graphite to be drawn into the pivot points.
I recommend graphite because it is a dry powder lubricant that won't thicken in cold and won't gum up by collecting dust or oxidizing like most liquid lubricants.
Are you sure the shocks are shot? If the truck bounces more than a few times after going over a bump or pothole, then they probably need replacing. New shocks will not fix problems with bad springs or excess sway.
Having said that, replacing shocks are not difficult but can be somewhat dangerous. (You'll be working under the vehicle, which is always a concern.) Depending upon quality, you can expect to pay somewhere between $100 and $300 for four shocks. (Installation labor would be additional, if you choose to have someone else do it.)
The most difficult part of replacing shocks is getting the nuts off the mounting studs because they're often rusted on. PB Blaster, applied several times a day over several days, will often loosen them.
Yes, it sounds like the thermostat is opening at too low of a temperature and not allowing the engine to come up the full operating temperature. This can cause a lot of problems, including bad fuel economy and rough operation. Replacing the thermostat is not difficult and a 180 or 195 degree thermostat would be much better. (I prefer 195 degree thermostats but I live in cooler/cold/damn cold climates.)
The radiator sounds like a good one that should reduce or eliminate any concerns about overheating, provided the fan is working correctly.
Any good quality battery would be find for the engine battery. Deep cycle batteries are best for the coach batteries.
![[image]](http://forum.mopartrucksandstuff.com/carb_picture_1.jpg)
This is looking at the bottom of the carburetor ... the "throttle valve" arrows point at the throttle plates.
![[image]](http://forum.mopartrucksandstuff.com/carb_picture_2.jpg)
The red arrow points to the choke plate, in the open position. In the closed position, it is pivoted to "choke" off air flow into the carb.
Shocks, I like the KYB MONO MAX. Any high quality Heavy Duty Gas shock, that you have available will handle it.
Not sure of the CFM on the stock carb, but if it's less than 500 CFM, AND you have to replace it. The venerable old Holley 500CFM 2barrel, is a good one. Especially if you operate a higher altitudes where you need the extra air flow. If it burns too rich, you can rejet it to burn a bit leaner. I had good success with it here in Colo....
So with the seafoam... I plan to do this today, and was wondering how do i determine how much gas in the tank... the gas gauge isn't working, and we have no idea how much gas was in it when I got it so.... if i don't know how much gas is in it I won't know how much seafoam to add or is this not so important.
Griff (or anyone) do you know where I can get pictures like that for the whole chasis... It would be a lot of help...
As far as the shocks... when I drove the machine home it was very bouncey almost the whole way... the weather was pretty windy so there was some concentration involved in keeping the thing going straight, is this what you meant by excess sway ? and how would i know if i had bad springs.
Thanks again you guys for being so helpful