Without Trucks,....America Stop's
Besides those... these 2 hedman models say they fit the bigblock B series vans up to 78
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HED-79820/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HED-79220/Application/?query=Model|B300
not sure what,s different on the 79,s but those might be able to work for you ? Summit is real good about excepting returns as long as you don,t modify them.
These shorties might work also http://www.sandersonheaders.com/Sanderso........r-383-440-V8-Blockhugger-Header-Set.html
They show that they stick out from the head 3 3/4" which might be to tight ?
Good luck
oldtrucker63 wrote:
Hey anyone here know the part number for a set of headers or a web-site where I can order a set, It is a 1979 Dodge 440 with the 727 trans And it's the M400 chassis, I'm hoping someone has already changed there's and know's the set that is direct bolt on.???...Thanks.
Hey anyone here know the part number for a set of headers or a web-site where I can order a set, It is a 1979 Dodge 440 with the 727 trans And it's the M400 chassis, I'm hoping someone has already changed there's and know's the set that is direct bolt on.???...Thanks.
The problem is RPMs ... most headers are designed for high RPM engines for race tracks and drag strips. Our vehicles operate at low RPMs, making most headers only marginally effective or even counterproductive.
The exception is Tri-Y headers, such as those made by Thorley, which are designed to boost horsepower and torque in the low to mid-RPM ranges. However, finding a set can be difficult and somewhat expensive.
I recall an article, I believe it was in Streetrodder magazine, that compared various headers and stock manifolds. For our applications, stock manifolds were almost as effective as any of the headers. (They only tested commonly available headers so Tri-Y headers weren't included in the comparisons.)
Dodge made a set of high performance manifolds for the B/RB blocks back in the 60's that might be a consideration, if you can find a set. Clearance may be a problem because those manifolds swept UP and back instead of straight down.
Based on everything I've read (and recall), the most cost effective improvement would be to leave the stock manifold in place and install a dual exhaust system with an H or X crossover.
Having said all that, I intend to go with Tri-Y headers on MLP, with dual exhaust including a X crossover. If I have to, I'll have a set custom made. (I'm "pushing the envelope" on this project and am willing to pay the extra cost.)
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A
chinook440 wrote:
The only ones i know of that say they fit the 79 bigblock vans are the expensive thorley headers which from reading your other post you already know.
Besides those... these 2 hedman models say they fit the bigblock B series vans up to 78
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HED-79820/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HED-79220/Application/?query=Model|B300
not sure what,s different on the 79,s but those might be able to work for you ? Summit is real good about excepting returns as long as you don,t modify them.
These shorties might work also http://www.sandersonheaders.com/Sanderso........r-383-440-V8-Blockhugger-Header-Set.html
They show that they stick out from the head 3 3/4" which might be to tight ?
Good luck
Thanks Just by looking at the photo of the summit racing headers the 79820's look like they will fit, I think the $429 price tag is a bit to high, Maybe I can find some a Bit cheeper than this, The block huger type would have to come out more to the rear on the right side anyway, The way they come out would be right on top of the A frame on the passenger side, The driver side this would work.
The only ones i know of that say they fit the 79 bigblock vans are the expensive thorley headers which from reading your other post you already know.
Besides those... these 2 hedman models say they fit the bigblock B series vans up to 78
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HED-79820/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HED-79220/Application/?query=Model|B300
not sure what,s different on the 79,s but those might be able to work for you ? Summit is real good about excepting returns as long as you don,t modify them.
These shorties might work also http://www.sandersonheaders.com/Sanderso........r-383-440-V8-Blockhugger-Header-Set.html
They show that they stick out from the head 3 3/4" which might be to tight ?
Good luck
Griff in Fairbanks wrote:
The problem is RPMs ... most headers are designed for high RPM engines for race tracks and drag strips. Our vehicles operate at low RPMs, making most headers only marginally effective or even counterproductive.
The exception is Tri-Y headers, such as those made by Thorley, which are designed to boost horsepower and torque in the low to mid-RPM ranges. However, finding a set can be difficult and somewhat expensive.
I recall an article, I believe it was in Streetrodder magazine, that compared various headers and stock manifolds. For our applications, stock manifolds were almost as effective as any of the headers. (They only tested commonly available headers so Tri-Y headers weren't included in the comparisons.)
Dodge made a set of high performance manifolds for the B/RB blocks back in the 60's that might be a consideration, if you can find a set. Clearance may be a problem because those manifolds swept UP and back instead of straight down.
Based on everything I've read (and recall), the most cost effective improvement would be to leave the stock manifold in place and install a dual exhaust system with an H or X crossover.
Having said all that, I intend to go with Tri-Y headers on MLP, with dual exhaust including a X crossover. If I have to, I'll have a set custom made. (I'm "pushing the envelope" on this project and am willing to pay the extra cost.)
Thanks And yes I can get the Doug Thorley headers and your right on the HP increase with the Tri-Y that Doug has come up with, I dont really want to spend $895 on a set of them unless I really have to, I'm hoping I can find a good set of shorties and spend the extra money on a new Intake Manifold and carb.
oldtrucker63 wrote:
Hey anyone here know the part number for a set of headers or a web-site where I can order a set, It is a 1979 Dodge 440 with the 727 trans And it's the M400 chassis, I'm hoping someone has already changed there's and know's the set that is direct bolt on.???...Thanks.
Hey anyone here know the part number for a set of headers or a web-site where I can order a set, It is a 1979 Dodge 440 with the 727 trans And it's the M400 chassis, I'm hoping someone has already changed there's and know's the set that is direct bolt on.???...Thanks.
The problem is RPMs ... most headers are designed for high RPM engines for race tracks and drag strips. Our vehicles operate at low RPMs, making most headers only marginally effective or even counterproductive.
The exception is Tri-Y headers, such as those made by Thorley, which are designed to boost horsepower and torque in the low to mid-RPM ranges. However, finding a set can be difficult and somewhat expensive.
I recall an article, I believe it was in Streetrodder magazine, that compared various headers and stock manifolds. For our applications, stock manifolds were almost as effective as any of the headers. (They only tested commonly available headers so Tri-Y headers weren't included in the comparisons.)
Dodge made a set of high performance manifolds for the B/RB blocks back in the 60's that might be a consideration, if you can find a set. Clearance may be a problem because those manifolds swept UP and back instead of straight down.
Based on everything I've read (and recall), the most cost effective improvement would be to leave the stock manifold in place and install a dual exhaust system with an H or X crossover.
Having said all that, I intend to go with Tri-Y headers on MLP, with dual exhaust including a X crossover. If I have to, I'll have a set custom made. (I'm "pushing the envelope" on this project and am willing to pay the extra cost.)
'73 Concord 20' Class A w/Dodge 440 - see profile for photo
OneDeadChicken wrote:
I have a feeling that the vehicle is dependent on starting fluid. I've spent this entire weekend working on it. I don't know what to do anymore. It cranks and cranks, but won't start. No matter how much I do it isn't enough it seems. I've replaced almost everything apart from the distributor. I'm going to get a can of starting fluid and if she starts right up, I know I have to replace the engine. I'm bad at this stuff.
I don't know exactly what Ether does to a engine but it is like they can get hooked on it, I have see diesel also like this, After using Ether for a long time they get will not start without it, I believe you should have changed the distributor long ago,It could be your only problem, Good luck with it and have a great 4th.
I have a feeling that the vehicle is dependent on starting fluid. I've spent this entire weekend working on it. I don't know what to do anymore. It cranks and cranks, but won't start. No matter how much I do it isn't enough it seems. I've replaced almost everything apart from the distributor. I'm going to get a can of starting fluid and if she starts right up, I know I have to replace the engine. I'm bad at this stuff.
I,d give that thing a compression check before you keep throwing parts and money into it .
chinook440 wrote:
Running the engine on ether/starting fluid just to keep it going down the road ???? you probably fried the valves and or cracked pistons and rings from what was originally a simple fuel supply issue!!!
I,d give that thing a compression check before you keep throwing parts and money into it .
WOW I did not know it had been sprayed with starting fluid Constant to keep it running, Hope it was not for too long or yeah your right the motor is shot.
Running the engine on ether/starting fluid just to keep it going down the road ???? you probably fried the valves and or cracked pistons and rings from what was originally a simple fuel supply issue!!!
I,d give that thing a compression check before you keep throwing parts and money into it .