Leeann wrote:
My turn...dang brake booster took a dump. Can't go out this weekend. No brakes and it makes the engine stumble when you touch the pedal.
bf thought there were no brakes because it was idling poorly. Until I replaced the spark plugs and made it idle smoothly. Then he touched the pedal and made the engine stumble - you could hear the internal leak in the booster.
Arggghhh.
Bendix Master-Vac, single booster system for front disc/rear drum.
My turn...dang brake booster took a dump. Can't go out this weekend. No brakes and it makes the engine stumble when you touch the pedal.
bf thought there were no brakes because it was idling poorly. Until I replaced the spark plugs and made it idle smoothly. Then he touched the pedal and made the engine stumble - you could hear the internal leak in the booster.
Arggghhh.
Bendix Master-Vac, single booster system for front disc/rear drum.
I just happened to bring home the CarQuest Power Brake Booster catalog from work this evening.
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/wink.gif "wink")
I have the Bendix medium and heavy duty catalogs, which don't mention the RM300, and the light duty catalog, which doesn't mention the boosters. Duh.
'73 Concord 20' Class A w/Dodge 440 - see profile for photo
We couldn't justfy buying a manual, since some things are covered and some things are not, but your library might be a better resource (we are in a very small town and I was impressed that they had this manual)--btw...the Dodge dealer recommended the library for the manual...who would have thought....
So far we are replacing piece by piece trying to even get the cab lights on...We thought we had it figured out, but still nothing....So, the next step we ran the tester from the batteries to the wires going to the fuse box....the fuses are good, but the ingoing side has power, the outgoing side does not....do the fuse boxes themselves go bad?
Which cab lights are you referring to--interior lights, running lights, clearance lights, headlights?
You need to test both sides of each fuse to ground. Both should read about 12v (assuming any switches are after the fuses).
If they are both good, then test across both terminals of each light socket with the bulb out. You should see a voltage reading around 12v.
Its a good idea to wear safety glasses and rubber gloves when testing.
These may also be of help:
Articles about RV electrical systems:
BATTERIES--AND OTHER ELECTRIC STUFF
The 12v Side of Life
Intro to Dry Camping
* This post was edited 06/24/11 03:56pm by TreeSeeker *
Hoppe
2011 Dodge 1500 C'boy Caddy
2000 Jayco C 28' Ford chassis w V-10 E450
Doghouse 36' or so Trophy Classic TT
Its a good idea to clamp the awning legs so that the bumps and wind don''t/can't try to unfurl your awning as you go down the road. I use a large wire tie on each leg at about 7' from the ground. So I waste 2 ties each time I roll out the awning. Wasteful but a no brainer.
Here in Co. it's a good idea. Not that the wind blows here, or anything.
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/smile.gif "smile")
76 Sunshine wrote:
We don't have an awning...guess the wind already got to it...
We don't have an awning...guess the wind already got to it...
Sorry,,,, was looking at the wrong pic.
Better get one! They're pretty nice to hang out under, when you're doing 16oz curls.