Griff in Fairbanks wrote:
Yes, I've worked with it but I prefer WEST System epoxy.
Polyester stinks and is temperamental. The biggest drawback is you have to -- absolutely have to -- make sure your polyester is fresh. Buy from a supplier that services large fabricators, NOT from auto parts stores, paint stores, box stores, etc. Polyester resin starts setting up as soon as it's manufactured so resin that's on a shelf for a long time is well on its way to setting up. The catalyst you add to the resin merely hastens the process already taking place in the resin. (Plus, the catalyst is nasty, dangerous stuff.)
For info I've posted on WEST epoxy, see Using WEST System epoxy
Thanks for the info Griff.
oldtrucker63 wrote:
Anyone here know anything about fiberglassing with Polyester resin and cloth.?????
Anyone here know anything about fiberglassing with Polyester resin and cloth.?????
Yes, I've worked with it but I prefer WEST System epoxy.
Polyester stinks and is temperamental. The biggest drawback is you have to -- absolutely have to -- make sure your polyester is fresh. Buy from a supplier that services large fabricators, NOT from auto parts stores, paint stores, box stores, etc. Polyester resin starts setting up as soon as it's manufactured so resin that's on a shelf for a long time is well on its way to setting up. The catalyst you add to the resin merely hastens the process already taking place in the resin. (Plus, the catalyst is nasty, dangerous stuff.)
For info I've posted on WEST epoxy, see Using WEST System epoxy
Without Trucks,....America Stop's
oldtrucker63 wrote:
Walmart batteries are no good they will only last about one year, go somewhere else to buy batteries.
Walmart batteries are no good they will only last about one year, go somewhere else to buy batteries.
They have a three year (FREE)replacement warranty so I can get a new one every year.
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/biggrin.gif "biggrin")
( Point taken though....Thanks )
See Picture In My Profile
I have a 1989 Dodge XPLORER RV Class B - Purchased 10/15/10 IN CASH
Fiance' purchased a Class C 2002 Dynamax Carri-go on 5/1/15 IN CASH
We've got the best of both worlds
TreeSeeker wrote:
Goreds2,
I don't have such a switch on mine so I don't know the answer. I think you will need a multimeter to get a definitive answer.
Guessing, I would say that CONV means the house 12v system is being powered by the converter, and conversly BATT means it is being powered by the battery. Mine switches automatically.
One way you can test is to not plug in to shore power and set the switch to CONV and see if any of the 12v stuff works (lights, etc).
If not, then stitch to BATT and see if they work. If so, then the system is as I described above.
Let us know what you find.
Goreds2,
Quote:
Good point but do I switch to CONV or BATT on the converter or does it matter.
Good point but do I switch to CONV or BATT on the converter or does it matter.
I don't have such a switch on mine so I don't know the answer. I think you will need a multimeter to get a definitive answer.
Guessing, I would say that CONV means the house 12v system is being powered by the converter, and conversly BATT means it is being powered by the battery. Mine switches automatically.
One way you can test is to not plug in to shore power and set the switch to CONV and see if any of the 12v stuff works (lights, etc).
If not, then stitch to BATT and see if they work. If so, then the system is as I described above.
Let us know what you find.
I will try to check tomorrow. Thanks,
oldtrucker63 wrote:
Anyone here know anything about fiberglassing with Polyester resin and cloth.?????
Anyone here know anything about fiberglassing with Polyester resin and cloth.?????
Do what Griff says and use the West.
It is simple to use, it works.
Pay the money and follow the directions.
Really.
Pay attention to temperature and allow ~5 days, depending on humidity, for it to cure.
Go thin, thin coats.
West is so easy, I could not screw it up.
I just checked the brake fluid. It has a rectangle lid that pops off. It has a space 1/3 of the size then a seperate space 2/3 of the deminsion. Do I place brake fluid in each space?
Thanks,
goreds2 wrote:
Another crazy question by me for my 1976 Dodge.
I just checked the brake fluid. It has a rectangle lid that pops off. It has a space 1/3 of the size then a seperate space 2/3 of the deminsion. Do I place brake fluid in each space?
Another crazy question by me for my 1976 Dodge.
I just checked the brake fluid. It has a rectangle lid that pops off. It has a space 1/3 of the size then a seperate space 2/3 of the deminsion. Do I place brake fluid in each space?
Yes.
One is for the fronts, one for the rears.
Make sure the lid is back on tight. Air is not your friend.
goreds2 wrote:
Another crazy question by me for my 1976 Dodge.
I just checked the brake fluid. It has a rectangle lid that pops off. It has a space 1/3 of the size then a seperate space 2/3 of the deminsion. Do I place brake fluid in each space?
Thanks,
Another crazy question by me for my 1976 Dodge.
I just checked the brake fluid. It has a rectangle lid that pops off. It has a space 1/3 of the size then a seperate space 2/3 of the deminsion. Do I place brake fluid in each space?
Thanks,
Yes, fill both spaces to the top. (As full as possible.)
If the rubber diaphragm is extended from the cap, push it back in flush.
The different size chambers are for front disc brakes and rear drum brakes. The chambers are only equal size on master cylinders on all drum or all disc vehicles.
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A
