Coast Resorts Open Roads Forum: How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

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Topic: How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

Posted By: Leeann on 01/05/10 08:56pm

Welcome!

I'd suggest doing (at the least) a flush on the rad. Next, I'd add an external tranny cooler inline with the rad tranny cooler - heat is the enemy and towing adds heat - as big as you can fit. We put a Transgo TF-2 shift kit into our 727 and the difference is amazing (following the instructions for RV trannies). Firmer shifts, less overlap - all good things to reduce slippage and heat and extend the life of the tranny - and it feels like more power is being transferred to the wheels.

I'd also suggest a battery switch to prevent parasitic drain, at least on the house battery. Harbor Freight, local boat places, they all have heavier-duty switches that will last...and keep your house battery from going dead while your rig sits.

Without a doubt, check your shocks. Questionable shocks on these rigs are bad enough when you're on the highway without a trailer, but add a trailer and it's miserable.

To the engine? First recommendation is oil/filters/plugs/wires/cap/rotor/coil/ballast resistor/ignition module/belts/hoses/timing adjustment - a complete tuneup. Rubber parts could look good but be past their usable age. Second, either go through the carb yourself with a rebuild kit (they come with really detailed directions) or have a place do it for you.

'73 Concord 20' Class A w/Dodge 440 - see profile for photo

Posted By: eyeteeth on 01/05/10 09:01pm

Adam... can't give up so quickly. There can be a learning curve, but it's not hard, and oh so worth it once you can start making use of the old RV.

I have a hard time working on mine anymore because if it's even remotely warm, we're in it. Heck just last weekend, in the freezing cold and snow...

Posted By: jayhedden on 01/05/10 10:44pm

thanxs leeann i have made alot of the typical tune up upgrades aslong as a pcv valve,im wondering if an rv cam will help.im pulling the trans out sometime this month to have it looked at,a good friend is a tranny man at a tranny shop so it will be gone thru and freshened up.

Posted By: Leeann on 01/06/10 05:58am

You don't need the RV cam. You put the RV cam into car or regular truck engines to make it more like the RV engine, which you already have.

Good about the tranny and the tuneup stuff.

Posted By: ALnCORY on 01/06/10 04:08pm

acchan,

I second eyeteeth's comment. There is a learning curve but its not that hard. Just hang in there, take it slow and ask all the questions on here you want. I had to along with alot of people on this site. If you can take some pics and post them folks here can help you diagnose most all of your problems.
good luck,
Al

I don't think anyones dying statement ever contained the words "I wish I had spent more time in the office", so lets go somewhere!

Posted By: acchan on 01/07/10 04:26pm

thanks so much for everyone's kindness and support, this is a great little forum/ community!

i'm still plugging away at it though don't worry...

just having some trouble with the fridge now... i can get it lit, but how long should i wait til it gets cold?

and also, i've noticed some water damage in the ceiling... it rained the other night and didn't leak, but it feels really soggy in a spot... is this something i should be worried about? quick fix ideas?

Posted By: eyeteeth on 01/07/10 06:41pm

It can take a fridge overnight to really get cold. The tubes on the back should be warm/hot to the touch after about 45 minutes. If it's not getting cold, make sure nothing is blocking the top vent, and that air can move freely behind the fridge. If that area is entirely clear, and your tubes are warming up but the fridge isn't getting cold, then you have a problem.

Also, sometimes the fridge will work on electric but not LP or vice versa. Try both before you give up on it entirely. (Although for me, LP is a necessity.)

Is the water damaged area 'soggy' or 'soft'? Did it get damp? When looking for the source of the leak, keep in mind that area is just where the water ended up, it could be entering somewhere not directly over the spot, and running to that area.

Posted By: mbryanr on 01/09/10 06:15am

I have a '77 Broughman and am looking to replace the carpet in the cab. Anybody recommend a good place to find a replacement molded carpet? Will a '78 fit properly? Or will I end up fabricating it myself?

Thanks in advance.

Posted By: acchan on 01/09/10 11:51am

the source of the leak has been patched up so i'm guessing i'll just have to live with a soft roof!

and the fridge is all good... just not getting very cold.

thanks eyeteeth!

Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks on 01/09/10 01:26pm

Some thoughts on leaks ...

1. Water happens, which is why Noah invented bilge pumps.

2. Water goes where it wants to go. You can't stop it ... at best, you can merely slow it down and make most of it go where you want it to go. (Most roofers will tell you this is true and Army Corps of Engineers careers have been built on this basis.)

3. Water abides by the Boatbuilders' Law of Dropped Tools and Hardware. (i.e., a dropped tool or hardware will always wind up in the most inaccessible part of the bilge ... corollary: If the bilge is not the most inaccessible place in the boat, dropped tools and hardware will defy gravity to reach the most inaccessible place.)

4. A significant portion of motorhome water 'leaks' are not due to external sources. Instead, they are due to excess internal humidity (from respiration, cooking, etc.) saturating and condensing in the exterior framing and insulation.

1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A

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