Yeah I hear ya, I am in good shape for rims and have a local tire store that can get the 16.5's(at least for now) so I can order new ones if I don't find any good used ones. He found me one used one for my spare and thought he had a line on some others but it didn't work out. I will put some better rubber on before I start camping next year one way or the other. Sounds like you found a good solution too..... I may look into the whole rim, tire change over too... just depends on what I find.
I don't think anyones dying statement ever contained the words "I wish I had spent more time in the office", so lets go somewhere!
Jerry & Gerry, our pets (dogs), Byron, Coco
1976 Monaco, 440 ci. Dodge Sportsman chassis
DaChiNooK-440 wrote:
Shipping would defitately be expensive Al which is why i offered them to eye since he,s fairly close and i go out to s.w. michigan every now & then.
Shipping would defitately be expensive Al which is why i offered them to eye since he,s fairly close and i go out to s.w. michigan every now & then.
Geez.... now you have me even more curious.
Doug
If the history of chinook info that you mentioned is the page that,s on the tincantourists site i have seen that already.
Thanks
I feel your pain, I know I ended up tearing into mine more than I planned although I think yours is worse. But look at the bright side, you will have a better built roof and new interior not to mention a newer fridge. Of course thats easy for me to say as most of my work is done. I know I was getting pretty tired of working on it before it was finished. Hopefully the weather will improve so you can get more done. I am looking forward to seeing the finished product.
A.
I just went back and looked at your pictures again. I see what you mean about the seal between cab and overhead. Something that might work is the rubber seal you put on the bottom of a garage door. That is if you can't find the original type seal. Just a thought.
A.
Jer&Ger wrote:
I'll probably have to use the laun panels too. I think I'll need about 6 from what I can tell so far. There was a piece of paneling on the underside of the cabover bunk that I'll have to replace after I rebuild all the framing there.
I'll probably have to use the laun panels too. I think I'll need about 6 from what I can tell so far. There was a piece of paneling on the underside of the cabover bunk that I'll have to replace after I rebuild all the framing there.
When you're at Lowe's, search through the stack of luan for sheets with bad /broken corners.
Those cost between $3 and $10, as opposed to $28 for new.
Believe me, you won't use a full panel anywhere. My Travco didn't.
Jer&Ger wrote:
I'll tell you, I sure didn't know I was going to get onto so repair. I thought I just had a small leak to fix.
I'll tell you, I sure didn't know I was going to get onto so repair. I thought I just had a small leak to fix.
Uhm... that's we all thought.
I have some experience in a rebuild, and might give you some choices in your indever. Lowes sells a 4'x8'x 1/16" plastic sheeting used in commercial bathroom walls. White & off white. One side is pebbled the reverse is smooth. The pinning has a larger plastic round same finish/plastic, nail. snap a line front to back, put pins into roof rafters in a row, relative easy to cut to fit. To cover the four foot seam running from front to back perp. to the sides, and since it bares no weight holding, use a stained 2-2 1/2 "w. x 1/2'd. wood ,stained to match the cabinets. where the 4' plastic ceiling panels meet use nails or staples leaving a smooth bottom for wood to hug plastic. Counter sink screws, fill or peg to match. They resemble beams, really quite attractive.
As far as your side to top outside connection, I am to late in this suggestion. In the higher priced motor homes & campers the top rubber roof rolls over that top most corner, and down the sides a couple of inches. Look around at a few !! Thus doing away with that poor excuse for the top/corner seam that some of the camper manufactures use. By making the seam on the side of rubber to metal. The water by gravity drips down over the top of the seams connection. Far better idea.
John H
Trish Davis wrote:
When you're at Lowe's, search through the stack of luann for sheets with bad /broken corners.
Those cost between $3 and $10, as opposed to $28 for new.
When you're at Lowe's, search through the stack of luann for sheets with bad /broken corners.
Those cost between $3 and $10, as opposed to $28 for new.
I found 1/4"x4'x8' Luann at HD today for $11.78 a sheet undamaged, but it was a new shipment with no damaged sheets. I'll check Lowe's tomorrow. I will need four full sheets and two half sheets in mine (it's 22' long with about 16 ft. flat full width)
John H wrote:
Morn' Jerry,
I have some experience in a rebuild, and might give you some choices in your indever. Lowes sells a 4'x8'x 1/16" plastic sheeting used in commercial bathroom walls. White & off white. One side is pebbled the reverse is smooth. The pinning has a larger plastic round same finish/plastic, nail. snap a line front to back, put pins into roof rafters in a row, relative easy to cut to fit. To cover the four foot seam running from front to back perp. to the sides, and since it bares no weight holding, use a stained 2-2 1/2 "w. x 1/2'd. wood ,stained to match the cabinets. where the 4' plastic ceiling panels meet use nails or staples leaving a smooth bottom for wood to hug plastic. Counter sink screws, fill or peg to match. They resemble beams, really quite attractive.
Morn' Jerry,
I have some experience in a rebuild, and might give you some choices in your indever. Lowes sells a 4'x8'x 1/16" plastic sheeting used in commercial bathroom walls. White & off white. One side is pebbled the reverse is smooth. The pinning has a larger plastic round same finish/plastic, nail. snap a line front to back, put pins into roof rafters in a row, relative easy to cut to fit. To cover the four foot seam running from front to back perp. to the sides, and since it bares no weight holding, use a stained 2-2 1/2 "w. x 1/2'd. wood ,stained to match the cabinets. where the 4' plastic ceiling panels meet use nails or staples leaving a smooth bottom for wood to hug plastic. Counter sink screws, fill or peg to match. They resemble beams, really quite attractive.
My wife and I looked at those when we were there, but worried that with the fiberglass insulation stuffed in the cavity it would make the ceiling bulge between the rafters, that and the fact that my wife didn't like the high gloss finish pretty much nixed that idea. Thanks for the suggestion though.
Anyway, I started blocking in where I'm going to re-install the AC and the vents. I'm adding a vent at the back and moving the AC and front vent forward for better air circulation. Now I can determine where to run the wiring for AC(120 v.) and new lighting(12 v.). Progress has been slow with the wind for the last few days, and maybe snow for the next few. I'll get more pics as I can.