donran wrote:
We just bought a 1976 Dodge Sportsman with a Surveyor on the frame. I find it just facinating besides being old and worn, everything seems to work, so far.
What I was curious is is how strong they are. How much weight can the roof hold. Are the various shelving on the inside part of the structure that holds up the walls. Can you strip stuff out, or do the walls fall down?
It came with a manuel for the Dodge truck and its 360 engine. It appears it will need a lot more inspecting and care then a car, and is mush less forgiving of maintenance ignors then a car.
We just bought a 1976 Dodge Sportsman with a Surveyor on the frame. I find it just facinating besides being old and worn, everything seems to work, so far.
What I was curious is is how strong they are. How much weight can the roof hold. Are the various shelving on the inside part of the structure that holds up the walls. Can you strip stuff out, or do the walls fall down?
It came with a manuel for the Dodge truck and its 360 engine. It appears it will need a lot more inspecting and care then a car, and is mush less forgiving of maintenance ignors then a car.
I sure wouldn't change to much interior supports to the roof panel unless you compensate for the support in another area. From my experences up on the roofs they are made of 1 x 1's or a little larger and the tin is laid over the top and the interior panels are install. That's not much support unless there is support holding up from the inside up. When I am on the top of my home I try an walk on the edges and stay away from the center as much as possible. You sure don't want to break any seals and create leaks that could be prevented.
Yep your home has all the maintance of an auto and a home on wheels. you need to take care that your holding tanks are in good shape, you should have a 12 volt battery for the coach that needs to be kept charged and inspected from time to time. I found my battery was being boilded dry when I had the home plugged in to 110 power. it took me 2 batterys to figure out the electric control panel which has a 12 volt charger built in it for the battery was over charging. an easy fix after I relized what whas going on. you shouldn't run any propane and have the valve at the tank off when driving. this is a law in some states. you need to take care in colder weather that you don't freeze up your H2O lines and tanks. got to drain everything even the hot water heater and I will blow air thru the lines to make sure all is clear before storing it for the colder seasons. this is just a few things that come to mind, I'm sure others can add to the list.
Rodney
* This post was edited 08/14/05 07:44am by Mr.Mopar! *
Rodney
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1978 American Clipper 21 ft. 440 Dodge.
The underbelly propane tank has rust all over it, I figure to clean the rust of and paint it with black rustoleum.
This is a situation where somebody tried to save this RV by spending some good money on it (engine valve job, custom carburator and intake manifold, new gas tank and lines, new hoses and heater valves), but it ended up sitting for some time, maybe a year then they traded it in on a car and I bought it.
Some times when vehicles sit for a very long time the tempered glass windows just shatter. One of the over cab small side windows did that. The dealer replaced two of the duel rear tires, because of bubbles in them and one went flat. While the previous owner did the heads, the mains and rings look bad with low oil pressure and oil usage. The automatic tranmission works great but looks old. I had to unbolt the seat to get it to back enough to drive it home. This is probably the most serious problem, since the shower and toilet are right behind the drivers seat. Perhaps removing the back of the seat and using the shower compartment as a back stop will be enough..need to test.
Still, for my first try at owning an RV I'm happy.
1976 Dodge Sportsman, Suveyor rig, "rustic" condition.
I've got a question:
I have a 1979 Fleetwood Flair, that did not come with a rooftop A/C unit. I have come across one that i can purchace cheap that does work. Am I going to need to build a frame in the roof to support the weight of the A/C unit? or should there already be one there, and i just need to remove the middle roof vent, and cut out enough rooof material for it to fit?
thanks
8.5 MPG, regardless of what RV I drive.
hwguru wrote:
Hey Mr. Mopar!
I've got a question:
I have a 1979 Fleetwood Flair, that did not come with a rooftop A/C unit. I have come across one that i can purchace cheap that does work. Am I going to need to build a frame in the roof to support the weight of the A/C unit? or should there already be one there, and i just need to remove the middle roof vent, and cut out enough rooof material for it to fit?
thanks
Hey Mr. Mopar!
I've got a question:
I have a 1979 Fleetwood Flair, that did not come with a rooftop A/C unit. I have come across one that i can purchace cheap that does work. Am I going to need to build a frame in the roof to support the weight of the A/C unit? or should there already be one there, and i just need to remove the middle roof vent, and cut out enough rooof material for it to fit?
thanks
when I removed my a/c unit cuz I didn't really think I needed it. I was able to buy a vent to fit the hole no problem. you will have to see how it measures up. you just need to pay attention to the support around the area you are mount the unit see how the extra weight affects the roof. pay close to the the new seal you will be using that it truly is sealing the roof to the A/C unit
Good luck
Rodney
Noodleman wrote:
Godd advice Griff, I'll look at that soon as I'm ready to take the beast back out on the road. My wife has me working cosmetics at the moment. Did discover one interesting thing when i took the dog house out to look for motor size. There is a HOLE in te transmission housing on the top. It's cut, so I'm guessing it's supposed to be there, I'm just wondering if it shouldn't have a plug in it? I can look down intot eh innards of the transmission. Not sure I should be able to do that.
Godd advice Griff, I'll look at that soon as I'm ready to take the beast back out on the road. My wife has me working cosmetics at the moment. Did discover one interesting thing when i took the dog house out to look for motor size. There is a HOLE in te transmission housing on the top. It's cut, so I'm guessing it's supposed to be there, I'm just wondering if it shouldn't have a plug in it? I can look down intot eh innards of the transmission. Not sure I should be able to do that.
That hole in the bellhousing area of the transmission is where you would aim your timing light to time the engine. This is assuming the torque converer has not been replaced with with one without the timing marks in it. I have seen this happen many times on older Vans and motor homes. I have never seen a plug in the hole and shouldn't really be nessassary.
while you have the dog house off you might take a look at all of the vacuum hoses and line for crakes and brittle areas and if there is any rubber lines going to the carb really check this out good for fuel leaks.
Rodney
* This post was edited 08/17/05 09:58pm by Mr.Mopar! *
klingzi71 wrote:
Saw this post and decided to join. We have a 1978 Dodge Jamboreee with a 360 for a motor, 89k miles. Works great in Colorado. Had it for a year and we love it.
Saw this post and decided to join. We have a 1978 Dodge Jamboreee with a 360 for a motor, 89k miles. Works great in Colorado. Had it for a year and we love it.
Welcome glad to have you aboard