Tioga76 wrote:
Does anyone know what might be causing the flooding? I replaced the original carb with a rebuilt one last year (the original had the same problem). The carb does not stay flooded after the engine is running; it only floods after I shut it down. The carb is a Holley 2210 2bbl.
Does anyone know what might be causing the flooding? I replaced the original carb with a rebuilt one last year (the original had the same problem). The carb does not stay flooded after the engine is running; it only floods after I shut it down. The carb is a Holley 2210 2bbl.
The carb. I don't know what it is about 2V carbs used on Mopar's, but once they need a rebuild, they never work right again! Just be thankful it's not a dreaded BBD!
But my first guess is that your choke isn't working properly, it's resetting to quickly. Try bending the control rod to keep it open longer (little test bends at a time until you get it right).
Also, these older engine aren't big fans of E10 fuels. Even a seasoned carb user can have difficulty re-learning their engine when starting it after heat soak, and it's do to the change in fuel chemistry. E10 also eats up the needle and seat on your float assemblies, in Carter/Weber carbs anyway.
Just remember for emission testing purposes, lean is not always the best, you need to find that perfect balance to simply pass the test. Once passed, then re-set it all so you can actually drive the darn thing!
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/biggrin.gif "biggrin")
I can't believe you have to test a one ton vintage vehicle. It's not like it gets used enough to actually affect anything, in the grand scheme of things.
She ain't purdy, but at least she's slow!
Definitely adjust the choke as suggested, but also check your fuel pressure. 5 psi, I think, is the highest needed for a carb.
'73 Concord 20' Class A w/Dodge 440 - see profile for photo
There should be a spigot or something on the outside to drain the tank. If not, get to a waste dump station, open the taps and send it through.
On mine, the tank is at the rear, across the back, and the tank drain spigot protrudes from under the sheet metal on the left. Locate your tank and check underneath to see if you have one.
Approximately 5000 original miles. No, I am NOT kidding. Stored in a climate-controlled environment. Instruction tag still on the radio. Guy wants $7500...he bought it at auction last year from the widow. If you're interested, let me know in a PM and I'll get you the contact info.
![[image]](http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll189/LeeannS24/Picture_316.jpg)
![[image]](http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll189/LeeannS24/Picture_317.jpg)
![[image]](http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll189/LeeannS24/Picture_318.jpg)
![[image]](http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll189/LeeannS24/Picture331.jpg)
![[image]](http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll189/LeeannS24/Picture332.jpg)
![[image]](http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll189/LeeannS24/Picture333.jpg)
![[image]](http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll189/LeeannS24/Picture334.jpg)
Leeann wrote:
On another site I visit, there is a 1978 Travel World Class C for sale. Fiberglass body, 360/727 drivetrain, located in Illinois.
On another site I visit, there is a 1978 Travel World Class C for sale. Fiberglass body, 360/727 drivetrain, located in Illinois.
Wow, they just don't get any more pristine than that!! That has to be the cleanest 30 year old rv I've ever seen.
See Picture In My Profile
I have a 1989 Dodge XPLORER RV Class B - Purchased 10/15/10 IN CASH
Fiance' purchased a Class C 2002 Dynamax Carri-go on 5/1/15 IN CASH
We've got the best of both worlds
I don't think anyones dying statement ever contained the words "I wish I had spent more time in the office", so lets go somewhere!