I also towed my jeep for the first time today, lets just say with the 360 I will not be setting any speed records, but I get up to 60mph and go down the road. Also I have more than enough brakes to stop it it seems.
Jerry & Gerry, our pets (dogs), Byron, Coco
1976 Monaco, 440 ci. Dodge Sportsman chassis
Unique
See Picture In My Profile
I have a 1989 Dodge XPLORER RV Class B - Purchased 10/15/10 IN CASH
Fiance' purchased a Class C 2002 Dynamax Carri-go on 5/1/15 IN CASH
We've got the best of both worlds
On another note, I got the Citation out today for what I will call a maiden voyage for the year, 100 miles round trip. My sister-in-law and 2 nefews met me and my wife are our house, and we took the RV up to my mother-in-law's for Easter. I even pulled my utility trailer with my mother-in-law's garden tractor on it (I was fixing some issure for her over the winter with it). The RV ran like a champ. After running up and down the highway, the airshocks were enough to get it leveledd out, 30 lbs. in the right and 90 psi in the left they are within 1/2 inch of each side, close enough. The trans cooler is on now too.
One quick question for everybody with a 360, what is the Wide Open Throttle shift speed for the 1-2 and 2-3 for everyone? Thanks in advance
overdrive75 wrote:
One quick question for everybody with a 360, what is the Wide Open Throttle shift speed for the 1-2 and 2-3 for everyone? Thanks in advance
One quick question for everybody with a 360, what is the Wide Open Throttle shift speed for the 1-2 and 2-3 for everyone? Thanks in advance
According to my ATSG manual, there's a different specification for the 360-4 Hi. Perf. and the 360-2 engines. (Those may be car engines and your motorhome may have a different engine, with different tranny spec's ... these should give you an idea.)
360-4: 1-2 WOT upshift - 43-56 mph and 2-3 WOT upshift - 78-83 mph
360-2: 1-2 WOT upshift - 41-57 mph and 2-3 WOT upshift - 83-100 mph
The chart indicates a 3.21 ratio and H78-14 tires for the 360-4 and a 2.45 ratio and GR78-15 tires for the 360-2. You may want to check your library's reference section for a Motors or Chilton's manual. (The big thick books, not the rinky-dink little books they sell in most auto parts stores.) The ATSG manual does give some spec's for the Loadflite version of the A727 but does not have a shift speed chart for it.
Munroe's Torqueflite A-727 Transmission Handbook doesn't have any shift speed charts. I have other manuals that may have applicable shift speed charts but I'm a bit busy right now so I can't go looking for them.
What is the question behind your question? With a little more information, I might be able to give you a better answer.
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A
goreds2 wrote:
I have noticed moisture on the floor in the cab only of my MH. There is no ceiling leaks etc.
Could it be it has been parked since November?
It is parked on grass. Could the morning dew just be causing it?
If you notice in the picture, it is also producing a white substance. Any input will be appreciated. Thanks!
![[image]](http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg244/area33mu/_DeviceMemory_home_user_pictures_IM.jpg)
I have noticed moisture on the floor in the cab only of my MH. There is no ceiling leaks etc.
Could it be it has been parked since November?
It is parked on grass. Could the morning dew just be causing it?
If you notice in the picture, it is also producing a white substance. Any input will be appreciated. Thanks!
Sorry this had taken me a while to answer, I've been kinda busy.
Trish is probably partially right regarding parking on grass. (Gravel isn't much better because it also allows ground moisture to evaporate up from under your vehicle ... the more space you have between the ground and your vehicle, and the more breeze you have under it, the less problems you'll have.)
Most likely, what you are seeing is due to ordinary condensation and evaporation.
The interior of most motorhomes are notoriously humid due to human and pet respiration and perspiration, combined with steam from cooking. The same thing happens in homes but you don't notice it as much because of the larger space and better insulation. The more you use your motorhome, the worse the problem gets.
Most older motorhomes don't have any kind of vapor barrier so the interior humidity permeates, and can saturate, the insulation. When your motorhome is not being used, especially on less humid winter days, the moisture trapped in the insulation evaporates back into the motorhome's interior. That's why a lot of people put dehumidifiers in their motorhome when they're storing them or otherwise not using them. (It's also a good idea to run a dehumidifier in them when you are using them or, at least, leave windows and vents open slightly.)
The floors, walls, and ceilings are typically made of wood and insulation, which is less likely to attract condensation. The cab floors are often made of uninsulated metal, which tends to attract condensation.
The white stuff is probably chemical salts, most likely sodium chloride (ordinary table and sea salt), left behind when the moisture (condensed on the cold metal floor or deposited by wet footwear) evaporates. The process of evaporation draws (wicks) salt laden moisture up through the carpet and backing. The crystalized salts, in turn, are left on the carpet's surface when the moisture evaporates.
It's the same process that occurs in the rock gardens you may (or may not) have made as kids.
On another not, I finally figured out my left side lean. The left side is 1 inch lower than the right. I have 7 leafs total in the left pack and 9 leafs in the right. Not sure what the P.O. did and why. So now I am torn, do I add two leafs to the left at a cost of $225 or do I buy the airbag Airlift kit for $225 including shipping. I am looking for opinions on this one.
Thanks
Patrick
overdrive75 wrote:
Griff, Thanks for the responce, those are actually car axle ratios you quoted, not MH axle. The reason I asked, is I added a tach a while back and noticed I am shifting at 3800 RPM with my foot on the floor, the 2-3 happens at 3800 RPM and about 50MPH, seems a little low to me. Is there a way to adjust this, shouldn't I be shifting at more like 4,600 to 4,800 RPM?
Griff, Thanks for the responce, those are actually car axle ratios you quoted, not MH axle. The reason I asked, is I added a tach a while back and noticed I am shifting at 3800 RPM with my foot on the floor, the 2-3 happens at 3800 RPM and about 50MPH, seems a little low to me. Is there a way to adjust this, shouldn't I be shifting at more like 4,600 to 4,800 RPM?
Yes, I know that was car axle ratios (and tires), but that was the only charts I could find. As I implied, the MPH shift points vary greatly, depending on the configuration of the rest of the driveline.
Your use of tach is much, much better for analysis. The fact that both shifts occur at the same RPMs lead me to believe everything is correct and the tranny is shifting to keep your engine in its best power range. A 2-3 shift point at a higher RPM probably wouldn't lead to much improvement. (Remember, you're driving a heavily laden truck and the tranny is tuned to that requirement and your engine's performance.)
I'd doublecheck my response with a tranny expert who specializes in A727 Loadflite transmissions. Tflite Patty, who has an eBay store, is one place that might be able to help you.
overdrive75 wrote:
On another not, I finally figured out my left side lean. The left side is 1 inch lower than the right. I have 7 leafs total in the left pack and 9 leafs in the right. Not sure what the P.O. did and why. So now I am torn, do I add two leafs to the left at a cost of $225 or do I buy the airbag Airlift kit for $225 including shipping. I am looking for opinions on this one.
On another not, I finally figured out my left side lean. The left side is 1 inch lower than the right. I have 7 leafs total in the left pack and 9 leafs in the right. Not sure what the P.O. did and why. So now I am torn, do I add two leafs to the left at a cost of $225 or do I buy the airbag Airlift kit for $225 including shipping. I am looking for opinions on this one.
I'd fix the springs ... using the Airlift kit seems to me to be putting a bandaid on the problem. I've seen it before, a repair shop puts on a spring pack from a different year or even different model, without checking to make sure it matches the original springs or even the other side. I now of one case where two otherwise identical trucks, with the same model designation but from different model years, uses different spring pack.
Personally, whenever I've had to replace a spring, I replace both sides of the axle at the same time, just to make sure everything stays balanced and equal.
Griff in Fairbanks wrote:
I'd fix the springs ... using the Airlift kit seems to me to be putting a bandaid on the problem. I've seen it before, a repair shop puts on a spring pack from a different year or even different model, without checking to make sure it matches the original springs or even the other side. I now of one case where two otherwise identical trucks, with the same model designation but from different model years, uses different spring pack.
Personally, whenever I've had to replace a spring, I replace both sides of the axle at the same time, just to make sure everything stays balanced and equal.
overdrive75 wrote:
On another not, I finally figured out my left side lean. The left side is 1 inch lower than the right. I have 7 leafs total in the left pack and 9 leafs in the right. Not sure what the P.O. did and why. So now I am torn, do I add two leafs to the left at a cost of $225 or do I buy the airbag Airlift kit for $225 including shipping. I am looking for opinions on this one.
On another not, I finally figured out my left side lean. The left side is 1 inch lower than the right. I have 7 leafs total in the left pack and 9 leafs in the right. Not sure what the P.O. did and why. So now I am torn, do I add two leafs to the left at a cost of $225 or do I buy the airbag Airlift kit for $225 including shipping. I am looking for opinions on this one.
I'd fix the springs ... using the Airlift kit seems to me to be putting a bandaid on the problem. I've seen it before, a repair shop puts on a spring pack from a different year or even different model, without checking to make sure it matches the original springs or even the other side. I now of one case where two otherwise identical trucks, with the same model designation but from different model years, uses different spring pack.
Personally, whenever I've had to replace a spring, I replace both sides of the axle at the same time, just to make sure everything stays balanced and equal.
What Griff said...
'73 Concord 20' Class A w/Dodge 440 - see profile for photo