Thank you all for the advice. I couldn't believe something that catastrophic happened as fast as it did either. Will investigate further. I gotta get her towed back to the farm (where they don't care if I supidly tear it apart on the lawn!) Problem is, my Knight is currently in Wisconsin for another 2 weeks.
I actually found a place that has a remanufactured 440 MH engine with a 3 year warrenty (1 year parts and labor). What do you think?
79powerwagon wrote:
...
Best part? He still drove for the rest of the summer! He simply poured free drain oil over the top of the open engine, and drove it until it over-heated, let it cool down enough to start up again, and continue on!
Not the best thing for the environment, but that darned car kept working, even broken that badly!
...
Best part? He still drove for the rest of the summer! He simply poured free drain oil over the top of the open engine, and drove it until it over-heated, let it cool down enough to start up again, and continue on!
Not the best thing for the environment, but that darned car kept working, even broken that badly!
That is pretty hillarious.
***********
1978 23' C class KIT ROADRANGER
Dodge 440
To be honest, if the engine's been taken care of, it'll last forever. So if the used one you found starts and runs (and sounds good), that probably would be fine.
'73 Concord 20' Class A w/Dodge 440 - see profile for photo
Leeann wrote:
To be honest, if the engine's been taken care of, it'll last forever. So if the used one you found starts and runs (and sounds good), that probably would be fine.
To be honest, if the engine's been taken care of, it'll last forever. So if the used one you found starts and runs (and sounds good), that probably would be fine.
As far as TCO, what do you feel that entales? We definitely don't want this to happen again (P.S. I will let you know what it turns out to be.)
Just because you only drive it 4000 miles per year (give or take) doesn't mean you only change the oil once per year. Especially change it before you store it for the winter...and run it at least once a month up to operating temp. while it's stored (this makes sure oil is everywhere in the motor it should be and water is nowhere it shouldn't be). After storage, change it again. Somewhere in the middle of the usable months, change it again.
Oh, and before you pull the drain plug, get 'er up to operating temp again - this gets more of the oogies (yes, Trish, that is a technical term!) out of the engine and does a more complete drain.
Next? Coolant
Make sure you FLUSH the******out of the radiator and hoses, then fill with the proper mixture of coolant and water. Make sure your thermostat is the correct one (180º to 190º, in the case of the 440-3 - original spec was 185º) - with a wide flange - and is operating correctly.
Then, Transmission fluid and filter
They've likely never been changed on your rig. They hadn't been on ours. I've changed them twice now and will change them again shortly (since it's impossible to drain the torque converter without pulling the whole tranny). Each time, the fluid's looked and smelled better afterwards.
After that? Valve cover gaskets, belts, hoses, cap, rotor, plugs, wires, ballast resistor, ignition module, voltage regulator, coil, brake fluid (it absorbs water with age and loses its ability to stop you - flush out the old, dark stuff and suck in new, clean, clear stuff), grease all your grease fittings....general routine maintenance.
I say oil, first and foremost, because I'm betting that was your problem. The PO (aka Previous Owner) didn't change the oil regularly and you've got sludge and dirt, which probably clogged a few (or more) holes in the motor, keeping oil from getting to main bearings, rod bearings, everything. Without lubrication, it'll seize. Coolant because an engine that has overheated has had a lot of stress put on it and possibly has warped metal that will prevent proper sealing or proper operation, depending where the heat damage is.
Leeann wrote:
... The PO (aka Previous Owner) didn't change the oil regularly and you've got sludge and dirt, which probably clogged a few (or more) holes in the motor, keeping oil from getting to main bearings, rod bearings, everything. Without lubrication, it'll seize. Coolant because an engine that has overheated has had a lot of stress put on it and possibly has warped metal that will prevent proper sealing or proper operation, depending where the heat damage is.
... The PO (aka Previous Owner) didn't change the oil regularly and you've got sludge and dirt, which probably clogged a few (or more) holes in the motor, keeping oil from getting to main bearings, rod bearings, everything. Without lubrication, it'll seize. Coolant because an engine that has overheated has had a lot of stress put on it and possibly has warped metal that will prevent proper sealing or proper operation, depending where the heat damage is.
I totally agree, which is why I'm leaning towards the remanufactured. I don't think I trust myself enough to judge the soundness of an engine.
Goatmaiden wrote:
I actually found a place that has a remanufactured 440 MH engine with a 3 year warrenty (1 year parts and labor). What do you think?
I actually found a place that has a remanufactured 440 MH engine with a 3 year warrenty (1 year parts and labor). What do you think?
What place?
Find out all you can about them online.
Run a search "by state" of any Attorney General complaints.
It's your money and it's your rig, ASK!
hearseangel wrote:
And this is my new baby...
![[image]](http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3014/2545006837_3cbff11a07.jpg)
And this is my new baby...
That is so ugly. I love it.
hehehe... you have to look for the pictures of mine to really appreciate what ugly is...
hearseangel wrote:
Any information or advice would be most welcome.
Any information or advice would be most welcome.
Brakes.
Search this thread for "Griff" and "brakes," starts about p. 160.
Very detailed on how to avoid losing them. Simple and cheap.
Change to an aftermarket distributor and lose the points.
I got a Petronix for as much as I paid for my floor = $0. (Read it and weep, Eric....)
Wheels. You probably have split rims. I do, too, and replacing them is VERY spendy --$1400. Learn to love the junkyards.
Trish Davis wrote:
What place?
Find out all you can about them online.
Run a search "by state" of any Attorney General complaints.
It's your money and it's your rig, ASK!
Goatmaiden wrote:
I actually found a place that has a remanufactured 440 MH engine with a 3 year warrenty (1 year parts and labor). What do you think?
I actually found a place that has a remanufactured 440 MH engine with a 3 year warrenty (1 year parts and labor). What do you think?
What place?
Find out all you can about them online.
Run a search "by state" of any Attorney General complaints.
It's your money and it's your rig, ASK!
Good advice. They are a Better Business Bureau Accredited facility and have had no complaints issued for the past 36 months. Plus, they were refered by the guy who worked on the carb. Really helps to know people.
Thank you, I did actually read through the brakes posts and have dutifully pointed them out to my wrench boy, as that is one thing we have to do before moving it out of the PO's yard. Hopefully it has dried out enough by next weekend that we don't sink to the axles making all of it a moot point. Distributor and rims noted as well and added to the list. Wow. It's a big list.
We both actually have a deep abiding affection for junkyards already, since we each have classic Cadillac hearses. He has a 1961 Miller, and a 1961 Superior. Mine is a '73 Superior, which is almost the same size as this rig. And also referred to as a coach oddly enough. The '73 is giant and square, and much like this rv, has a face only a mother could love. Apparently I'm addicted to vehicles that rarely fit within the typical parking space and are so ugly they're cute. But they're great fun to take your driving test in. >
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/smile.gif "smile")