* This post was edited 05/02/08 03:59pm by timmac *
Here is one that may be a good place to start By Vehicle
Eric
She ain't purdy, but at least she's slow!
Spend $80 on a CarQuest electrical fuel pump and see your mileage improve.
I have an elec fuel pump on the Merc, which is real far from stock and I get --driving sanely-- about 20 out of it.
Leeann's got one on her Concord and she's getting way better mileage than a 440 ought to.
There will be one on the Travco.
Thank you. Tzvi
Tzvi wrote:
On a Dodge Delta 1977, I've got Carburator problem, my Mechanic says it might have a damaged float and Idle circuit is not functioning properly. The Vin is F44cF7V which I think translates as 10,001-14,000 Gwvr, 360 2 BBL (carb), 1977. It could be the PO put on a damaged and not proper fitting Carburator. I also have a plate that says: GVWR-10,500 Del-M-1542 Sierra Vista Chevy Dodge Model 100-400. Where would I get a replacement that would fit? Leeann, I hope you can help me with this, Thanks, how about anyone else out there?
Thank you. Tzvi
On a Dodge Delta 1977, I've got Carburator problem, my Mechanic says it might have a damaged float and Idle circuit is not functioning properly. The Vin is F44cF7V which I think translates as 10,001-14,000 Gwvr, 360 2 BBL (carb), 1977. It could be the PO put on a damaged and not proper fitting Carburator. I also have a plate that says: GVWR-10,500 Del-M-1542 Sierra Vista Chevy Dodge Model 100-400. Where would I get a replacement that would fit? Leeann, I hope you can help me with this, Thanks, how about anyone else out there?
Thank you. Tzvi
That would be a Carter BBD carburetor. Rebuilt replacements are readily avaiiable. ($260 at NAPA Online ... you may be able to get a better price elsewhere.) Have the counter people look up the carburetor for a 1977 B-300 Van with a 360 engine.
Kits to rebuild the carburetor yourself are also readily available for $40-60. I've rebuilt Carter BBD's multiple times, especially on my 1977 B-200 with 318 engine. (Too much Heet, used too often, kept eating up the carburetor seals.)
Personally, I'd seriously consider spending some extra money and switch to an Edelbrock Performer intake manifold and Performer carburetor. It should improve your gas mileage slightly, assuming you can stay out of the secondaries. Likewise, it should be more reliable than the Carter BBD.
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A
PS. I had an uncle who would recommend to his customers that they should put bigger tires on the back so they would always be going downhill and save on their gas mileage. He explained that he didn't do it for himself because he was saving so much gas that he had to keep emptying his full gas tank and it had become bother. He said this was probably because he also adjusted his carburetor and with these two improvement he was saving 110% on his gas mileage. It seemed the extra 10% was what was bothering him.
Thanks
Tzvi wrote:
Thanks Griff for the information. I will call Napa on Monday. I hate to appear foolish but what did you mean about staying out of the secondaries in reference the improved gas mileage?
Thanks Griff for the information. I will call Napa on Monday. I hate to appear foolish but what did you mean about staying out of the secondaries in reference the improved gas mileage?
Most four barrel carburetors have two primary barrels (venturis) and two secondary barrels. During normal cruising conditions, the two secondaries are closed and only the primaries are being used. The secondaries are there to provide extra fuel when the engine needs it, such as during hard acceleration or while climbing a steep hill.
It's possible to rely almost exclusively on the primaries, provided you adopt a more leisurely driving pattern. (i.e., no trying to see who can get to the next stoplight fastest.)
Two barrel carburetors require larger barrels to allow for all driving conditions, including heavy loads and hard acceleration. The two primaries on a four barrel carburetor can be sized closer to typical driving conditions because the secondaries provide extra fuel for exceptional situations.
The two primaries on an Edelbrock Performer four barrel carburetor are probably smaller than the two barrels on your existing carburetor. In theory, this should translate into less fuel consumed during cruising conditions.
Four barrel carburetors have an undeserved reputation for high fuel consumption because too many people use all four barrels too much. (i.e., they 'get into the secondaries' a lot instead of relying mostly on the primaries.) Also, some four barrel carburetors are very, very large -- as much as twice the size of the Edelbrock Performer. (Such carburetors are intended for race cars and trucks ... using them on a street vehicle is a waste and serves mostly to puff up the owner's ego.)
BTW - did your uncle also ask you to pull on his finger? Maybe he's talked about a great deal on oceanfront property in Arizona?
I have decided to take off the rear ladder(it's damaged and rickety) and remove the cargo rail from the roof. I will just patch the holes on the back from removing the ladder, but my question is the roof. I assume I will just have some screw holes in the roof but what is the best method for patching them? I have the metal roof. Anyone ever done this before and what did you use? thanks .... A.
I don't think anyones dying statement ever contained the words "I wish I had spent more time in the office", so lets go somewhere!
79powerwagon wrote:
Put the screws back in and seal over them, just like the original install. That's the easiest way...
Put the screws back in and seal over them, just like the original install. That's the easiest way...
with eternabond? the metal roof sealer goop?