Coast Resorts Open Roads Forum: How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

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Topic: How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks on 04/27/08 09:51pm

Click, new idea ... (no need to duck and hide ... this one's fairly normal.)

Maybe we should start a list, just for these old Dodge motorhomes, of spare parts everyone should carry. Say maybe a list of things that would fit in a large tackle box.

I know ballast resistor is near the top of my list. Those windshield wiper bushings would be another good item.

If you want, email me suggestions and I'll try compiling it.

1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A

Posted By: eyeteeth on 04/28/08 07:04am

Ya know... I was thinking... at 240+ pages... we really need an index back at the beginning. I know we talked about ways to improve mileage... but have no idea what page it was anymore. Or where to find different parts... repairs... it here. "just a few pages back" [emoticon]

There was talk at one point about consolidating all the information to a web site. did that ever happen?

Moving on...

Here's a few updated pics of the progress. I'm thinking I'll peel off the very bottom of the siding to replace the bottom 2x2s. The rest I think I can do from the inside. Some of the wood is discolored, but still fairly solid. I'm thinking about trying the CPES stuff on that. I know I'm doing a much more thorough repair than a shop would have. My friend keeps saying, "I would just..." and I keep thinking "yea but". Its taking longer, but it's far cheaper and I'll have some satisfaction in the end.

[image]

You can see where much of the bass boards, and floor studs have completely rotted away in this one.
[image]

Same in this one. That 2x12 is what the spare tire attaches too. dragging your finger across it turns it to splinters. how the tire hasn't fallen off going down the road escapes me.
[image]

Posted By: ALnCORY on 04/28/08 10:12am

nice documentation eyeteeth... can't wait to see the finished product.

I don't think anyones dying statement ever contained the words "I wish I had spent more time in the office", so lets go somewhere!

Posted By: Leeann on 04/28/08 10:34am

Wow, what a mess! [emoticon]

Just think, though - you'll have one heckuva nice, strong unit when you're done (have to think that when you're in the middle of an expanding project).

'73 Concord 20' Class A w/Dodge 440 - see profile for photo

Posted By: eyeteeth on 04/28/08 10:54am

Leeann wrote:

Wow, what a mess! [emoticon]

Just think, though - you'll have one heckuva nice, strong unit when you're done (have to think that when you're in the middle of an expanding project).

OMG!!! you read minds! lol. That's the thought process I'm in right now.

Really though, it's "not bad" all things considered. The way the unit is constructed... I think I can back most of the screws out fromo the outside without have to remove much of the exterior as the the bad stuff is mostly below the knee. There's a few 2x2's I plan on using one of the wood rot repair epoxy's on, refraining the lower bunk windows... 2 2x2's along the bass of the bunk area wall, 2 more along the base in the very back of the unit, then the two boards under the headlights, the one above, and the 2x4 above. Apply the same repair stuff to the 2x2 in the shower corner, and then replace or add to a few of the floor studs and that's about it. I'm thankful I don't have the replace all the framing back there... which would be common and typical. It's still a lot of work, but it should all be good in the end.

Posted By: ALnCORY on 04/28/08 11:25am

Eyeteeth, just a thought, I used presser treated lumber to replace some of the damage in my overhead... I thought it might less suseptable to water damage in the future... I just ripped it to fit the need..

Posted By: Leeann on 04/28/08 11:30am

eyeteeth wrote:

OMG!!! you read minds! lol. That's the thought process I'm in right now.

Really though, it's "not bad" all things considered.

Sometimes it works [emoticon]

No, it really isn't that bad, considering.

We're just lucky our Concord is framed in steel, not lumber. Or we would have had more damage than you have to repair.

Posted By: eyeteeth on 04/28/08 11:38am

Yea... I'd thought about it. not sure it's really worth the expense though. The idea is to keep the water out to begin with. The PT stuff is cut differently, and still needs to dry out for month before you should do anything with it. There's framework in the unit that still looks brand new. Just need to keep it dry. The rot in the bunk area is from 1) the awning was supposedly blown off in a storm but the PO didn't seal any of the holes left afterwards, and 2) the putty sealing the bunk windows dried out and they were never caulked. The same wood on the opposite side of the RV behind the shower look pretty darn good. I think just sealing it back up properly will go a long way to making the repair last.

The Pressure treating really doesn't penetrate the wood though, so anywhere you drill into it, put a screw or staple, or cut it, becomes just as vulnerable as any other piece of wood.

I might still use some for the floor studs.

Posted By: ALnCORY on 04/28/08 12:42pm

I agree that keeping water out is the plan, and yes some of mine was almost totally gone and other looked almost new... so keeping it dry is the key. I don;t know if the PT stuff will make much difference but I had some left over from another project so I used it. My thinking was that if some water gets in before I notice, that it might not be as damaging... Has any one else done this? or seen any evidence that it helps?

Posted By: Leeann on 04/28/08 12:47pm

As far as I remember from decks, PT wood has to be sealed like any other wood for water resistance - but it can't be sealed right away thanks to the treating.

That, however, is the older stuff. I have no idea about the new stuff...

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