Oh, cool. They don't build stuff like they used to - if you'd let a new vehicle sit all winter I'd bet you couldn't possibly have gotten it fired right up
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/wink.gif "wink")
'73 Concord 20' Class A w/Dodge 440 - see profile for photo
I don't think anyones dying statement ever contained the words "I wish I had spent more time in the office", so lets go somewhere!
ALnCORY wrote:
need to get one of those fancy electric fuel pumps
need to get one of those fancy electric fuel pumps
Yep, they're wonderful inventions
Seriously, they're great. We put a block-off plate in place of the mechanical fuel pump and put electric fuel pumps on each tank.
Flip the switch, let it pump for a few seconds, turn the key and VROOOOOM!
countessaisobella wrote:
230239699577
Not only Ugly, but all that lovely overcab storage space gone.... nix it.
230239699577
Not only Ugly, but all that lovely overcab storage space gone.... nix it.
It's Klingon.
Leeann wrote:
Yep, they're wonderful inventions
Seriously, they're great. We put a block-off plate in place of the mechanical fuel pump and put electric fuel pumps on each tank.
Flip the switch, let it pump for a few seconds, turn the key and VROOOOOM!
ALnCORY wrote:
need to get one of those fancy electric fuel pumps
need to get one of those fancy electric fuel pumps
Yep, they're wonderful inventions
Seriously, they're great. We put a block-off plate in place of the mechanical fuel pump and put electric fuel pumps on each tank.
Flip the switch, let it pump for a few seconds, turn the key and VROOOOOM!
Be sure to install a 'crash switch' with the electric fuel pump(s).
In an accident, the fuel pumps can keep running, pumping fuel out all over the place. A crash switch is an inertia switch that cuts off the electricity to the pump(s) when the switch senses a strong impact.
Crash switches can be salvaged from newer vehicles in junkyards and at least one aftermarket automotive electrical supplier also sells them.
Be sure to wire the pumps to your engine's ignition circuit. Both the accessory and always-hot circuits present the possibility someone might leave the pump(s) running when the engine's off. (Don't do like one guy did and wire the pump(s) into the start circuit.)
You also might want to consider an out-of-the-way indicator light that tells you when the pump(s) are getting electricity.
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A
Griff in Fairbanks wrote:
Be sure to install a 'crash switch' with the electric fuel pump(s).
In an accident, the fuel pumps can keep running, pumping fuel out all over the place. A crash switch is an inertia switch that cuts off the electricity to the pump(s) when the switch senses a strong impact.
Be sure to wire the pumps to your engine's ignition circuit. Both the accessory and always-hot circuits present the possibility someone might leave the pump(s) running when the engine's off. (Don't do like one guy did and wire the pump(s) into the start circuit.)
You also might want to consider an out-of-the-way indicator light that tells you when the pump(s) are getting electricity.
Leeann wrote:
We put a block-off plate in place of the mechanical fuel pump and put electric fuel pumps on each tank.
We put a block-off plate in place of the mechanical fuel pump and put electric fuel pumps on each tank.
Be sure to install a 'crash switch' with the electric fuel pump(s).
In an accident, the fuel pumps can keep running, pumping fuel out all over the place. A crash switch is an inertia switch that cuts off the electricity to the pump(s) when the switch senses a strong impact.
Be sure to wire the pumps to your engine's ignition circuit. Both the accessory and always-hot circuits present the possibility someone might leave the pump(s) running when the engine's off. (Don't do like one guy did and wire the pump(s) into the start circuit.)
You also might want to consider an out-of-the-way indicator light that tells you when the pump(s) are getting electricity.
Wait a minute. I have an electric fuel pump on the Merc...
Never thought to block the existing fuel pump port; I cut the fuel lines and crimped them. Really hard.
It's wired into one of the fuse blocks on the firewall and activated by its own switch. No "crash switch" because I don't understand what an inertia switch IS.
And, Griff, you can hear it run standing outside the car.
Although once I start the engine, you can't....
Griff in Fairbanks wrote:
You also might want to consider an out-of-the-way indicator light that tells you when the pump(s) are getting electricity.
You also might want to consider an out-of-the-way indicator light that tells you when the pump(s) are getting electricity.
We have LEDs mounted above the gauges so we know which one's running. Never thought of a crash switch - I'll tell the bf.
ALnCORY wrote:
Also need to specify, the roof seams have had a layer or two of the paint on aluminum seal stuff applied it looks like. Will eternabond stick to that or will it need to be removed? thanks again
Also need to specify, the roof seams have had a layer or two of the paint on aluminum seal stuff applied it looks like. Will eternabond stick to that or will it need to be removed? thanks again
When I did mine last summer, I did it in the hot sun and yanked out the old unit, then used a 2" putty knife and scraped all the 30 year old sealant and repairs back down to the original aluminum. It came off easy in the heat!
Then I washed everything down with denatured alcohol, applied the sealing tape, and bingo! Installed the vent and all is well with the world again! Oh yes, I brushed on new plasti-kote sealer as long as I was sealing up the other seams up there...
Basically, it was one warm afternoon of work to replace 2 broken vents, install a new stack cover, and to seal uo the whole roof.
She ain't purdy, but at least she's slow!
