Griff in Fairbanks wrote:
The brake flex lines are something I'm a real stickler about and something most people don't think about or notice.
The brake flex lines are something I'm a real stickler about and something most people don't think about or notice.
LISTEN TO THIS ADVICE.
Hi, I'm home. We got in yesterday at 3 on the back of a wrecker.
You know it --NO brakes. As in zero.
Engine runs great, so quiet you can hardly hear it --which is what the Statie (who gave me a warning instead of a ticket) said. "Intermittent taillights" being why of the warning.
Good exhaust with no leaks.
Good tires.
Good transmission --or it was a good transmission until I shoved it into "P" to avoid going backwards over that hill. We will see just how much a Torqueflite can withstand.
Good solid frame.
Good solid Dodge flooring.
Everything Dodge works. Anything added on does not.
Think real hard before you "remodel."
There's a story behind this Travco... suitable for midnights on Halloween.
Griff --I am looking for 2 brake boosters then? Thanks for that brake info.
I will take you up on your offer of adding to your website.
There will be A LOT of what-not-to-do's for do-it-youselfers.
Leeann --I missed you. Mostly generally, but specifically because you are not afraid of electrics. Dan took a lot of pictures, I will send, you diagnose. Your best guess is better than my base of knowledge.
Eric --I got some neat-O shots of the Chrysler building for you.
It's beautiful in the setting sun.
And you are so wrong about not caring what your rig looks like... *g*
Who sent me that "thumbs-up?' *hey, that was 7 pages ago, I can't remember*
Thankee. There can be little doubt that it was well-wishing got me across the turnpike.
Today:
Take the dealer plate back to Bill.
Keep unscrewing the nasty paneling (paneling is not your friend.
Fix the door so it won't leak.
Take the mirrors off; left one broke as the wrecker-guy was backing it into my front yard.
Clean as I go.
I prefer planned adventures. It's nice to be home.
Remember, mine didn't make it out of the PO's driveway, so I had to flat bed it home!
Again, welcome back!
She ain't purdy, but at least she's slow!
The brakes were completely frozen and needed to be replaced... and the Master cylinder leaks.
![[image]](http://images25.fotki.com/v954/photos/4/43266/5230920/IMG_7496-vi.jpg)
It marked it's territory a little bit...
![[image]](http://images28.fotki.com/v975/photos/4/43266/5230920/IMG_7498-vi.jpg)
and we had a small problem with the hoses...
![[image]](http://images27.fotki.com/v967/photos/4/43266/5230920/Photo_073107_001-vi.jpg)
For what ever reason however... we did make it back home 600+ miles.
The things we go through.........
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/eek.gif "eek")
Glad everyone made it home safe to post somemore. My brakes were so bad when I got my rig home from the purchase, I just had to have someone do them, everything needed replaced...LOL.
Gary Webb
Phoenix, AZ
I'm glad you made it home safe & sound....the Loadflite (that's what came on trucks/MHs: heavier-duty internals than the Torqueflite) can withstand a lot, so you might be fine there.
As for the boosters, you'll have to look underneath. Mine, for instance, has one booster attached directly to the master cylinder (mine's a Bendix MasterVac instead of the HydroVac). And I'd check all the vacuum lines and the booster air filter (looks like an oil filter, usually mounted somewhere near the pedals). My brakes improved dramatically after we replaced the vacuum lines AND did a complete tuneup.
Send me as many pics as you want - since I can find the wiring diagrams on mytravco, the bf can look and search and diagnose as much as possible. I'd first look at ground wires, though. That was 90% of the problem with electrics on ours: the ground wires were either missing or not connected well.
'73 Concord 20' Class A w/Dodge 440 - see profile for photo
Still working along...have the entire cab cleaned out, replacing some plastics and I have sanded and rust poofed and painted the entire floor. many hours of sanding.
Good thing I caught it as there were places that where just starting to rust through! It was bad.
Currently cutting carpet, pad, felt etc for the floor!
Found the hold down brackets for the front of the dghse at the JY! Free!!!!!
AND...
I found the short tranny dipstick tube at the JY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
(Thanks for all the offers of parts help, Griff and everyone.)
It even is the warning light type. Dont know if it is op or not but no reason it shouldnt be.
One question...does the tube have a seal or gasket? there was none at the JY but it had blue gasket seal around it.
Also...is there going to be fluid that will leak out when I pull the old one?
***1980 19' American Clipper 719F Luxur Van w/440***
I don't think anyones dying statement ever contained the words "I wish I had spent more time in the office", so lets go somewhere!
Trish -
![[image]](http://www.riffgan.com/misc/rv_net_stuff/boosters.jpg)
These are the brake boosters on MLP. Yellow arrows point to the boosters, green arrows point to the slave cylinders, and red arrow points to the vent line. As Leeann indicated, there's several brake booster variations on the older Mopars. Go look your chassis up in the NAPA catalog I mentioned previously.
BTW - if you have the (one or two) separate brake booster(s) and slave cylinder(s) like MLP, there's an unusual brake bleeding procedure. Basically, you have to bleed the lines from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder(s) before bleeding the wheel cylinders. Most shops don't know about this special procedure.
Your tranny is probably okay ... the A727 (Torqueflite or Loadflite) is almost as bullet-proof as the Dana 70 rear axle. (I assume you were barely moving when you threw it into Park ... otherwise, it wouldn't have engaged.) Even if you did damage it, it can be easily repaired with the tranny still in the vehicle. (The parking gear and sprag is in the tailcone.)
FYI - I've studied the Mopar automatic transmissions extensively. I've also rebuilt a '66 A727, a C3/FMX, and two E4OD automatics.
If Leeann & BF can't diagnose your electrical system, I probably can. "Intermittant taillights" is a sign of a loose ground, just like Leeann indicated.
Yes, please, add to my web site ... especially considering Travcos are definitely classics. (I'm a bit jealous.) I'll PM my email address to you.
eyeteeth -
Second picture - Front or rear of vehicle? If it's the front, that looks like the right (passenger) side, in which case it's probably a warped valve cover or leaking gasket. (Overly-tightened valve covers are probably the number one cause of oil leaks.)
Third picture - If you overfill older radiators, they will puke some coolant after shutting off the engine ... there's usually some air space in the top of radiator to allow for coolant expansion. (That's one of the reasons for coolant recovery tanks.)
Cenote -
Congratulations on your JY find ... like I said, I'd like to find a warning light type dipstick myself.
May I suggest draining the transmission and replacing the filter when you replace the dipstick/fill tube. Besides ensuring you have fresh fluid and filter, it'll eliminate the possiblility of a spill.
While you have the pan down, may I suggest upgrading to an extra-capacity pan. There's a nice one available through Mopar Performance for $60-70.
The dipstick/fill tube is a hand-pressure press fit, with an o-ring. (At least MLP's has an o-ring ... I just went out to the shop and checked.) Look at the tube you got at the JY ... does it have a groove rolled into it about 1/2-3/4" up from the bottom? If it doesn't have the groove, let me know and I'll tell you how to seal it.
The blue gunk (RTV?) was probably a PO's attempt to seal a leak around the tube ... voice of experience based on several row-once-bail-twice boats I had while growing up -- smearing gunk on the outside of a leak rarely works. (This includes motorhome roofs.)
Al (ALnCORY) -
Yes, I've got ideas about your brakes but I need to know more about what system you've got.
Whew!! I think that's everyone and everything ...
* This post was edited 09/21/07 02:59pm by Griff in Fairbanks *
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A
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Trish Davis wrote:
Both y'uns-- play nice, g*ddammit.
Both y'uns-- play nice, g*ddammit.
Amen!
Flat black with red wheels ... oooooh, I love it! (It'd definitely keep things warm in the winter ... and you could bake pottery in the summer.)
Trish Davis wrote:
My buddy Bob said the brake light switch is often located on top of the booster.
My buddy Bob said the brake light switch is often located on top of the booster.
Almost, but not quite ... it's on top of the slave cylinder. See the wires going up and curving to the frame, just above the lefthand green arrow in the picture? That's the switch.
On mine, there's a brass junction block on the frame just ahead of the boosters that also has a switch ... I need to verify it but I believe this is the brake failure sensor, for when half your system loses pressure.
The ticking may very well be your voltage regulator. (My voltage regulator was mounted inside, above and immediately behind the brake pedal.) Older (mechanical) voltage regulators used relays to control the field on the alternator. Headlights would put enough of a draw on the system to cause the regulator to cycle, especially if there's weak grounds or connections on the head lights. Easiest fix is to upgrade to an electronic regulator, but be careful 'cause there's some gotchas in the upgrade process.
If you want, I'll research a bit and post some pictures & info tonight. (Gotta go do some work right now.)
Trish Davis wrote:
You guys are the best.
You guys are the best.
We know ...
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/biggrin.gif "biggrin")