Coast Resorts Open Roads Forum: How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

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Topic: How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

Posted By: Trish Davis on 09/15/07 05:26am

New stuff for old Dodges --brake parts, relinings, and master cylinders:

http://www.alretta.com/

Posted By: 79powerwagon on 09/15/07 10:36am

Trish Davis wrote:

A smear of amber somewhere on Kimberley (unless she is a girl, in which case she needs an optometrist, too;-) ) and you've become a rolling stoplight.

I planned that, so i don't ever get hit! She's an accountant, the only taste she needs to have is she digs me! [emoticon]

At the same time, Eric, I have to thank you. If you hadn't found that Travco in Eu Claire (the eww-Travco), I wouldn't've even considered one and now I've got one!
Thanks, man.

You are welcome! I can't wait to see the rig!

She ain't purdy, but at least she's slow!

Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks on 09/16/07 01:40am

ALnCORY wrote:

thanks whiteknight, ok first this doesn't look good moment. I was crawling around under the old bus looking it over. Needs a muffler, no biggie, then I see the gas tank. It is not leaking but looks like it is rusting or something. Appears wet in an area about 3 inches in diamater. So replace the tank?, don't know the size but it is large and square, or is there a patch type fix? Would any tank from and old dodge van (mine is 1974)work or do I need same type as I have. Is this a common problem or just begginers luck for me? thanks, Al

Sorry, I saw this question ... then saw another question ... (Oh! Look at the squirrel!) ... and got distracted.

I wouldn't mess with it ... take it to a reliable welding shop that specializes in gas tanks ... there's usually one in the area but they don't necessarily list that in their services so you may have to ask around.

Any patch that you can put on is, at best, very temporary and likely to fail at an inopportune time.

If the metal is still solid (not almost rusted through), it's possible to clean the tank out, etch the inside, and seal it with an epoxy sealer. And, naturally, it's possible to clean up and repaint the outside.

Leeann more familiar with that process than me. Personally, I just replace the tank if there's any doubt. If yours is the B100/B200/B300 type that fit between the framerails behind the rear axle, JC Whitney wants $159.99 for a new replacement.

JCW replacement gas tank for 1974 Dodge full-size (B-series) vans.

To me, that's cheap peace-of-mind.

If yours is not an OEM standard tank, then Tanks, Inc., is a possible source. On MLP, I'm going to replace one of the fuel tanks with an OEM-sized M300/P300 tank, even if I have to have the replacement custom-made. The second tank will be custom-made because I want it to be a very specific size and shape, with an extra (two) fuel pickups. (The second pickup will be for the genset and will be short so the genset runs out of fuel while there's still 10+ gallons left in the tank.)

Oh, yeah ... I've seen 60-year-old tanks that are still as solid as the day they were made ... and 10-year-old tanks that are already rusting through. The local climate & environment play a big part in the life of a tank. Also, whether the tank is kept full or almost empty has a bearing. (Empty tanks collect moisture ... that's why small airplane owners keep their tanks topped off when parked.)

1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A

Posted By: Leeann on 09/16/07 07:51am

POR-15 makes a fuel tank repair kit, available here:

http://www.por15.com/prodinfo.asp?grp=FTRK&dept=11

Ours were solid, so I just cleaned 'em up and put regular POR-15 on the outside of the one that had the least amount of paint on it. And it looks awesome, too.

'73 Concord 20' Class A w/Dodge 440 - see profile for photo

Posted By: Trish Davis on 09/16/07 09:03am

Griff in Fairbanks wrote:

ALnCORY wrote:

... the gas tank, not leaking but looks like it is rusting or something. Appears wet in an area about 3 inches in diamater. Replace the tank? Is there a patch type fix? Would any tank from and old dodge van (mine is 1974)work or do I need same type as I have. Is this a common problem or just begginers luck for me?

60-year-old tanks that are still as solid as the day they were made ... and 10-year-old tanks that are already rusting through. The local climate & environment play a big part in the life of a tank. Also, whether the tank is kept full or almost empty has a bearing. (Empty tanks collect moisture ... that's why small airplane owners keep their tanks topped off when parked.)

Al:
The tank IS rusting. From the inside out maybe (see what Griff wrote, dead on about moisture), but it is rusting.

No, not just "any" tank will fit. Look around the net, there are only a handful of sizes it can be. One exactly the same will work.

Don't patch it; waste of your money and time for much irritation in return.

It's not you, it was the PO or PO*s* who did this.

Read what Griff said about moisture and condensation again and remember it well. Most folks never fill their gas tanks anymore... Yeah, it's expensive. Yeah, you might not need a full tank of gas to drive 8 miles to work, but you DO need a gas tank that doesn't leak!

Whwen you park any vehicle for a duration (2 weeks is a duration), fill the tank to 3/4 and add Sta-Bil. This is good stuff, it keeps the moisture from eating the gas tank inside-out. Available at NAPA, Auto Zone, Wal-M, Advance Auto, pretty much wherever. Follow the directions and dont' worry.

Back to your gas tank problem. When you drop the tank, make sure you UNSCREW the fittings and take the gauge wire off --gently.

There is a regulator that screws into the tank --this thing tells the gas gauge how much gas you have and also "sends" the gas to the carb.
Regulator's important so don't beat on it with a hammer. It may deserve it, dont' do it anyhow.

You *can* clean up the refgulator (it'll have brass or copper bits on it that will be verdigrised --at least my '41 Merc's does and I got it cleaned up and usable), soft touch. Easy, easy.
How do you know you'll be able to find another one? Right.....

Dry gas will not help, nor dry gas is a substitute for a 3/4 full tank and Sta-Bil additive.

When you drop the gas tank:
Drain it first! There is a plug in the bottom, look hard.
Spray holy hell out of the tank fittings with Liquid Wrench, let it sit for a day. Patience, Grasshopper.
Take a brass detail brush (or old BBQ brush) and clean up the bolts so you can see what you are doing.
Wear clothes you want to throw out anyway.
Do this outside, the smell has been known to result in divorce ;-)

One more thing: Be careful of the filler neck pipe! Take it off slow and easy, lots of Liquid Wrench --PB Blaster is too sticky, makes wrenches slide right off which makes bolts round off.

Filler neck might look disgusting. If it doesn't have holes in it, it's good. Clean it out with lacquer thinner, see what you've got. Worst, you'll have to have it sandblasted OR all the rust on the inside of it will end up in your gas lines, in your carburator, and in your valves!

A used tank that smells like shellac is a NO. Gas turns into shellac after a few years. No, you can't get it out. Yes, you can ruin your engine if you try to use a shellac-ed tank.

Once you get a new /good used tank, paint the outside of it with Rust-Oleum and a brush. Several times.

Run 2 inline fuel filters, too. Plstic ones that let you see "in" them are good, peace of mind for 2 bucks each.
What...? You wanted to do this again... ;-)

And it all sounds lots worse than it is.

Posted By: glw on 09/16/07 12:17pm

OK, I hate to change the subject here...you guys seem to be doing so well on the Gas tanks...LOL

However, I have been trying to look up info on my VIN. Finding it very difficult to match up to anything. Been to 2-3 websites and what they say, does not match up with what I have.

I have a 1977 Chinook 18+ club lounge. Dodge 360 chassis. VIN is

F34BF7V026324

There is also another # litsed under T.O.N. N2179008

I would appreciate any help here, I cannot seem to locate anywhere to give me the info on this vehicle.

Gary Webb
Phoenix, AZ

Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks on 09/16/07 01:38pm

glw wrote:

That doesn't sound like a Mopar VIN but I'll go looking anyhow. In the meanwhile, Mother Mopar's son Dodge stamped the (Mopar) VIN into the right (passenger) side of the frame, near the front axle. (I think you need access to factory records to decode the TON.)

Edit: Scratch that ... the last part of your VIN appears to be Mopar ...

Last six digits are serial number, starting at 000001 each year.

The next, reading right to left, is assembly plant.

The next (eighth from right) is the year ... a 7 is 1977.

The next (ninth) is engine type ... an F means 360 cu. in. 2 barrel.

The first four from the left are model designation, body type, and GVW class ... the book I have handy doesn't list those but it's a pickup (D/W) book. Will keep looking.

* This post was edited 09/16/07 01:58pm by Griff in Fairbanks *

Posted By: glw on 09/16/07 01:51pm

Griff in Fairbanks wrote:

That doesn't sound like a Mopar VIN but I'll go looking anyhow. In the meanwhile, Mother Mopar's son Dodge staamped the (Mopar) VIN into the right (passenger) side of the frame, near the front axle.

This is what is on the TAG riveted onto the Drivers door frame? The PO has a note that this is an F30? Not sure what that is either. If it has anything to do with this VIN, but it says F34?

Seems this is maybe one of those OFF standard VIN's issue, prior to setting a VIN standard?

Thought this may help.....

[image]

Thanks for looking, would be nice to be able to find it.

Gary Webb
Phoenix, AZ

* This post was edited 09/16/07 02:03pm by glw *

Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks on 09/16/07 02:24pm

Fascinating ... no, I was wrong, that's definitely a Dodge VIN, I've just never heard of the F30 model. (Of course, 1977 is really new for me ... my stuff is 1972, 1969, and 1959.) I have five books here and none of them mention the F-series. (May be Canadian manufacturer.)

Please refresh my memory - is your Chinook a Class A, Class B, or Class C?

BTW - you may want to unlock your profile so people can send you private messages ... that way we can pass you info without cluttering up the main thread.

Posted By: glw on 09/16/07 02:35pm

Griff in Fairbanks wrote:

(May be Canadian manufacturer.)

Please refresh my memory - is your Chinook a Class A, Class B, or Class C?

I hadn't realize my profile was locked I will look into this that.

The Class of the Chinook is one reason why I was looking up the VIN, to see if it would tell me. It is NOT a van conversion, it has a separate Chinook Body, placed on the Chassis. That would be a C?

Could be Canadian, more info I was looking for... [emoticon]

Gary Webb
Phoenix, AZ

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