mkpj1 wrote:
Leeann is right, as usual....
Leeann is right, as usual....
Better be careful - that just might go to my head!
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/biggrin.gif "biggrin")
'73 Concord 20' Class A w/Dodge 440 - see profile for photo
79powerwagon wrote:
Doc, it's funny reading your stuff about the heat cross-over, then reading the same topic on moparts, except everyone is deliberately blocking them off over there! For those that aren't as versed in Mopardom, for our RV application, MBD is correct, keep them operational. For race and hi-po applications, you want the coldest air charge you can get, so they get blocked off. Apples to Oranges.
Doc, it's funny reading your stuff about the heat cross-over, then reading the same topic on moparts, except everyone is deliberately blocking them off over there!
For those that aren't as versed in Mopardom, for our RV application, MBD is correct, keep them operational. For race and hi-po applications, you want the coldest air charge you can get, so they get blocked off. Apples to Oranges.9er .... for us RVers .... keep them "operational" PLUS ! ...
On my 413 -- I am going to INSULATE the intake as much as possible -- to keep that alum intake as warm as possible -- considering that it is just coolant heated.
The Moparts dudes ? ... have you ever seen some "plug readings" that some of those guys have? ... they give "running-RICH" new meaning !! ...... and a few of them have "washed" a few sets of rings too !
Big_John wrote:
Clothespins on the fuel line is an old anti-vapor lock trick. The idea is they act as a heat sink and keep the line a little cooler so the gas doesn't boil.
Clothespins on the fuel line is an old anti-vapor lock trick. The idea is they act as a heat sink and keep the line a little cooler so the gas doesn't boil.
It has been a while since I have worked on an A engine ... BUT ...
So WHEN does a fuel line come up from the rear of the engine and feed the REAR of the carb ?
MasterBoondocker wrote:
It has been a while since I have worked on an A engine ... BUT ...
So WHEN does a fuel line come up from the rear of the engine and feed the REAR of the carb ?
Big_John wrote:
Clothespins on the fuel line is an old anti-vapor lock trick. The idea is they act as a heat sink and keep the line a little cooler so the gas doesn't boil.
Clothespins on the fuel line is an old anti-vapor lock trick. The idea is they act as a heat sink and keep the line a little cooler so the gas doesn't boil.
It has been a while since I have worked on an A engine ... BUT ...
So WHEN does a fuel line come up from the rear of the engine and feed the REAR of the carb ?
I don't know... its not my RV.
I just read what he posted... he asked why there were clothespins on the fuel line and I answered.
It is very possible that a previous owner has rerouted the line and bypassed the mechanical pump and has put an electric pump in the fuel line.
MasterBoondocker wrote:
9er .... for us RVers .... keep them "operational" PLUS ! ...
On my 413 -- I am going to INSULATE the intake as much as possible -- to keep that alum intake as warm as possible -- considering that it is just coolant heated.
The Moparts dudes ? ... have you ever seen some "plug readings" that some of those guys have? ... they give "running-RICH" new meaning !! ...... and a few of them have "washed" a few sets of rings too !
79powerwagon wrote:
Doc, it's funny reading your stuff about the heat cross-over, then reading the same topic on moparts, except everyone is deliberately blocking them off over there! For those that aren't as versed in Mopardom, for our RV application, MBD is correct, keep them operational. For race and hi-po applications, you want the coldest air charge you can get, so they get blocked off. Apples to Oranges.
Doc, it's funny reading your stuff about the heat cross-over, then reading the same topic on moparts, except everyone is deliberately blocking them off over there!
For those that aren't as versed in Mopardom, for our RV application, MBD is correct, keep them operational. For race and hi-po applications, you want the coldest air charge you can get, so they get blocked off. Apples to Oranges.9er .... for us RVers .... keep them "operational" PLUS ! ...
On my 413 -- I am going to INSULATE the intake as much as possible -- to keep that alum intake as warm as possible -- considering that it is just coolant heated.
The Moparts dudes ? ... have you ever seen some "plug readings" that some of those guys have? ... they give "running-RICH" new meaning !! ...... and a few of them have "washed" a few sets of rings too !
Does the 413 intake have coolant passages in it?
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/wink.gif "wink")
re: 16.5 rims.
Talked with a buddy about this Avion (in a minute) and the first thing he mentioned were the 1-ton rims. Depending, you might be better off to swap them out for 16's.
Tires are cheaper and available anywhere.
Few places anymore have tire machines will accomodate 16.5 rims.
Again, "depending" ...
Look to see how much weight each axle is bearing and act accordingly.
Junkyard rims -- Not a thing wrong with them!
re: Dodge-based Avion.
Coach is terrific. New generator. New (electric only) GE fridge. New AC. 2 new 20lb propane tanks. Backup camera. New batteries. New water heater. Excellent water pressure. PERFECT INTERIOR. Really perfect and all original.
Chassis:
No exhaust manifold leaks. No oil leaks out of valve covers. Shifts smooth enough, but no real hills in Indianapolis. .410 rr end (rectangular "thing" on differential, can't miss it, you're right,MBD). 2-bbl carb. Betting the X-over pipe is plugged.
No cab heat /defrost /AC. Believe it's the motor, test light showed NO power. Frame does not appear to be rusted through anywhere but has not ever been painted or rust-proofed. It could be better. Needs leafs and shocks, frt & rr.
I drove it 15 miles, in town and freeway. Accelerates well enough, brakes (disc frt) will want attention --the master cylinder "overflowed" once back --new one to me, I've never seen that before. Running *very* hot, radiator was pinging /hissing after 15 miles! 2-part rad, copper-cored. $300 to re-core.
Needs left ball joints; count on rts, too. Electrical has been buggered up sometime during its life. No radio. Fuse box out (sensible, you can get to it if you leave it "out") and lots of burnt fuses in the dash and on the floor. Cab doors are bad rusted 1' up. Battery box isn't "too bad," but will be in another winter.
It is a shame that someone took such good care of the coach and let the chassis go. It's not shot, but it is a thousand dollars in repairs (frt end, cooling, brakes???) just to get it home so I can do the body work on the doors and get someone with sense deal with the electrical. Then the suspension...
Must think long and hard before spending on this one...
Thank you, PW79 and Master BD,for all the tips you gave me.
I would have been way behind the game without them.
Big_John wrote:
Does the 413 intake have coolant passages in it?
Does the 413 intake have coolant passages in it?
Yes INDEEDY .... and this is just another "PLUS" in the column for the 413 !
The typical exhaust heat crossover passage in the "440" head IS a coolant passage in and with the 413. So many times I have heard of people FRYING a TQ or a Holley with the common exh heat crossover. This can not be the case on a 413.
But on an aftermarket aluminum intake(which I am using on my 413) - it can dissipate the heat tooooo quickly - hence the plan on insulating of the intake on both the top and bottom.
Trish Davis wrote:
Thank you, PW79 and Master BD,for all the tips you gave me.
I would have been way behind the game without them.
Thank you, PW79 and Master BD,for all the tips you gave me.
I would have been way behind the game without them.
And Thank you toooo !
I think that we can ALL offer insights and opinions on this or that that can help out most anyone.
Our "Dodge Crew" here is small enough - we should do all we can to help each other.