79powerwagon wrote:
EDIT: PS- the cross-over is a heat channel cast into the intake manifold to get the cold running of the engine to be a bit more civilized. You cannot check it without removing the intake manifold. Just expect it to be plugged. Not the end of the world, just a nuisance in my book!![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/wink.gif "wink")
EDIT: PS- the cross-over is a heat channel cast into the intake manifold to get the cold running of the engine to be a bit more civilized. You cannot check it without removing the intake manifold. Just expect it to be plugged. Not the end of the world, just a nuisance in my book!
But you CAN check-it ... 9er .... just by feeling the area on either side of the carb. If it gets really hot after say 3 minutes running ... it should be OK. But most do not.
A "nuisance" ? ... is an understatement in most people's opinion. The intake must be pulled and then BOILED for a couple of days to remove all that build-up. And THEN there is the build-up in the HEAD passages.
That can be chipped-out and then vacuumed out but BE careful about getting it all that material. DON'T let any of it fall into the pan or back into the exhaust port/valve/combustion chamber.
Your battery area looks better than mine. Way better! My whole lower fender...fell out! Where the tray welds into the fender....gone. Not a lick of rust anywhere else. You can see some of the aluminum strips I am using to rebuild underneath the battery. It's a funny story though because i bring thi beast home and the neighbors are looking on and my wife is out and herei am tackling a bad battery connection. Simple right! I'm trying to loosen the battery cable and the battery about falls on the front tire and a pile....I'm talking a frigging BIG pile of rust chips falls onto my driveway. I could hear my neighbors laughing there backsides off. Well, nothing a torch and a welder won't cure. I'm really looking into using fiberglass though I am unsure it will stick properly to the steel. Any thoughts?
No No. I left the little bugger alone. Him and his sister are a terror. I have trained and owned Labs for a very long time. We just lost one of the best Labs I ever owned about 6 months ago and had to get new ones. they are chewin machnes when thy are this young. I'm the one who should be bludgened in the head as I know better!!! anyone who has ever had labs know they can't resist black tubing of any kind. A guy was laying cable in my backyard with my late lab around. I told him to secure it out of his reach several times. Aw, naw we'll be done in a few minutes. that dog chewed it though 3 different places in 15 minutes.
thanks for the manual links.
jc
stay tune for an update
Doc, I did not knoew that about the heat cross-over (the test). Thank you, I've learned something today!
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/biggrin.gif "biggrin")
Ken, ask MBD about fiberglass, he'll know! I'll tell you it will work, but as you're laminating it up, install some mechanical fasteners as well, then continue to laminate over them. This will help keep your battery from hitting the front tire (again!) when it finally starts to let go. Maybe use POR15 instead? They make a fiber mesh to be used with their product to repair like a floor board thats all pin-holed. I may investigate that since POR15 is a urethane, and nothing affect urethane! And it sticks like a ...well, it sticks real well to anything it comes in contact with!
Eric
She ain't purdy, but at least she's slow!
jc
eyeteeth wrote:
It's probably in this thread somewhere... but I'll fess up. I'm going to be lazy and ask as I never have much luck with the search feature.
What's a good chassis/engine manual for these older units, and where on earth would I find one?
It's probably in this thread somewhere... but I'll fess up. I'm going to be lazy and ask as I never have much luck with the search feature.
What's a good chassis/engine manual for these older units, and where on earth would I find one?
Hey Eye, Don't give up on e-bay. Took me about 9 months but I finally found the factory issued service manual for my 73.
As for the house manual, check with the mfg. I found a reprint from Coachman.
R.E. Fuel injection design:
Why titanium, because there were no restrictions on cost in my sons class, they could use any material and were graded on feeds and speeds for that particular material. As for making one in aluminium, I'll have to ask if he still has his design on MasterCAM.
Here comes the "Chuck Wagon"
That is exactly the kind of stuff I'm needing to know.
Agreed with the assessment of Holleys. Might get stoned for saying that but, putting an out-of-the-box Edelbrock on the Merc ('41 Cpe w/ '67 Buick 340 at .30 over; new mains, crank and cam --my dad was a machinist) convinced me. 2 yrs later on a car that spends 6-8 mos sitting is saying a lot.
This heat exchange pipe -- am I correct in assuming it is, if it hasn't already-- is going to rust big time? A good machinist could make a stainless one.
Yeah, knowing precisely *what* to look for without tearing into an engine in another person's driveway is good. Thanks for the "hot sides" tip.
And thanks for the battery box tip. I can weld (ugly but it sticks) so that is fixable.
Now, this add-on OD. Buddy of mine (HS and dirt bikes since were 12) owns his own trans shop, rebuilds nothing but auto transmissions. I am gonna run this suggestion past him this week --he was supposed to be over here Saturday helping me put my bike back together!-- and will relay his take.
John is GOOD. Seldom do I praise, but John is good at what he does.
I have no intention of swapping out the rr end for a higher-ratio one.
Hills and under a load, you need the power of lower gears.
More questions:
I intend to haul a bike trailer. The rig is only 20ft and I don't want anything over 22', tops.
Fellow owns it says there's a hitch --what's the factory tonque weight?
The trailer is "yet to be determined" ... I can build one off an old Ford axle, modify the old one (small for trips), buy used... so I have neither dimensions nor weight.
Drums all around? Drums are no problem if you adjust them properly.
Manuals and YES for eBay.
Wait to find a factory manual, Haymes is a waste of money.
Or find an "Motors Manual" covers your years, they're excellent.
79PW... where in WI?
I worked and lived (mostly worked and for very little) in New Glarus 6 yrs ago.
For the battery tray, POR-15 is a wonderful thing.
John and Elizabeth (Liz), with Briza the size XL tabby
St. Bernard Marm, cats Vierna and Maya...RIP. ">
Current rig:
1992 International Genesis school bus conversion
I'll look into POR-15,thanks. Battery tray...ha ha. I swept mine up in a dust pan. i'm going to use the POR-15 for the WHEEL WELL!
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/rolleyes.gif "rolleyes")
Trish, I'd just look to put in a aluminum edelbrock intake. It's lighter and cheaper. Well you would need to go with a 4 barrel but .....
Good luck with finding the towing info. I have 360 and my rig is 22 ft. My coach manual doesn't recommend towing at all. Tough, I'm going to beef up the drive train, put on a cooler, and the tweek the motor. She is going to tow!
79powerwagon wrote:
Doc, I did not knoew that about the heat cross-over (the test). Thank you, I've learned something today!
Doc, I did not knoew that about the heat cross-over (the test). Thank you, I've learned something today!
DON'T feel like the Lone Ranger .... IF we all have an open-mind -- we can learn ALOT from everybody and everything we are involved with ! .... I am learning TONZ about gardening ... this year is my first one !
And on that intake .... I would suggest another test for that crossover. Give a water bottle with a spray attachment and "mist" that area after about 5 minutes of running. If that mist does not turn to steam .... there are "issues".
Also ... IF it is plugged ...I suggest getting another intake to do your boil-job on. The last one I was involved with .... it took the machine shop over a week to boil-it - because it was so packed in there.
BUTTT ... I would suggest an aftermarket intake -- that is NOT prone to plugging.