ddepr1217
New Jersey
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So my mission this weekend is to go tackle those dead batteries on my trailer. I have been pouring over the forum searches for disconnect switches. I know a lot you folks like the Blue Seas models but to be honest, that looks a little too challenging for my very limited knowledge. Looking at the Harbor freight "green knob" switch.
http://www.harborfreight.com/battery-disconnect-switch-97853.html
I see how it connects to the battery but I'm not sure what connects on the other end. Do I need to get a post or something? Any input on this would be great.
An since I have 2 batteries, do I need 2 switches? If not which battery should the switch go on?
Sorry to seem so helpless but i promise to pay it forward someday.
Thanks!
2011 Chevy Silverado 5.3 V8 3.42
2012 Prime Time Tracer 245bhs Touring Edition
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PenMan
New Mexico
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From your other posts I see you have two 12 volt batteries wired in parallel. The best way to use the disconnect switch you have chosen is to put it on the positive post of the battery that has the wire running into the trailer. Just move the wire from the post to the the other side of the disconnect switch and you're ready to go. The single switch disconnects both batteries from the trailer. Make sure the batteries are connected before towing or you will have brake problems.
Chris and Jane and two boys (and a DDIL) who prefer tents
2007 Rockwood Roo 23B
2006 Dodge Ram 3500, 4x4, Crew Cab, DRW, 5.9 turbo diesel
1996 Harley Davidson Electraglide
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skipnchar
Topeka or somewhere else
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The EASIEST disconnect switch is to simply remove the negative lead from the battery. Using a thumb screw on the terminal means it's a 5 second job and 100% effective.
2011 F-150 HD Ecoboost 3.5 V6. 2550 payload, 17,100 GCVWR -
2004 F-150 HD (Traded after 80,000 towing miles)
2007 Rockwood 8314SS 34' travel trailer
US Govt survey shows three out of four people make up 75% of the total population
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patinlouisiana
Baton Rouge, La
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You might find something like this?
IMHO
I think you should be looking for what is draining your batteries?
I never get lost! Someone always tells me where to go!
2012 Prime time Tracer 230FBS Touring Edition
2010 Toyota Sequoia Limited 4X2
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janechucknicodemus
Oregon
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I completely disagree on this ONE. That unit caused a fire and battery blow out in my sports car. .. Get one that has a KEY switch that completely disconnects the system.
We were driving down the road and thank goodness the battery was on the inside of the car. OTHER wise the connection would have caused more damage.
The best by far is to remove a cable from the battery and put a good insulated cover over it. Do not buy this screw in and out one.
Safety first.
Patinluiasiana has a great idea.
Remember a battery can blow up and remove parts from, your trailer, hands or other damages.
And as an ex battery maintenance guy I have seen a lot of bad things happen in even a shop where safety was observed.
Well that's all
Buyer beware.
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patinlouisiana
Baton Rouge, La
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janechucknicodemus wrote:
Remember a battery can blow up and remove parts from, your trailer, hands or other damages.
We all tend to think of the batteries as innate little black boxes that are out of sight out of mind….
I had a battery explode during the night several years ago. The acid sprayed all over the business end of my 30KW
Home backup generator. We cleaned it as best we could and washed it down with bicarbonate of soda. Needless to say I’m in the market for a new one. First the circuit board failed then the drum switch and now the windings themselves.
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MegaJohn
NW Geogia
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I too was in your shoes last fall... trying to get more out of our batteries. We installed a second 12v battery in parallel, topped off the batteries' water (distilled water only), and added a disconnect switch. We've recently added an optional control module to our inverter to allow it to act as a "smart charger". I hope the latest upgrade will reduce our charge time while on the yet-to-be-purchased generator.
We purchased a keyed disconnect switch from AutoZone and installed it on the positive lead inside the camper before the inverter. I chose the inside location to avoid having to travel with the key installed (and possibly falling out)... I was also concerned about the switch not being watertight over time. Being inside takes care of these concerns.
As was previously mentioned, your camper's brakes should be connected to the battery while traveling.
We're still working through upgrades and habit changes to consume less battery power. 
Happy Camping!
John.
Stock 2006 Dodge Ram 3500 MegaCab, 5.9L Cummins, Automatic, 2WD, Dually
- 30' 2006 Pilgrim Interntional travel trailer, dry weight ~7k pounds, GVWR ~9k pounds
- Husky weight distributing hitch, friction anti-sway control, electronic brake controller
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BillyW
North ID
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janechucknicodemus wrote:I completely disagree on this ONE. That unit caused a fire and battery blow out in my sports car. .. Get one that has a KEY switch that completely disconnects the system.
We were driving down the road and thank goodness the battery was on the inside of the car. OTHER wise the connection would have caused more damage.
The best by far is to remove a cable from the battery and put a good insulated cover over it. Do not buy this screw in and out one.
Safety first.
Patinluiasiana has a great idea.
Remember a battery can blow up and remove parts from, your trailer, hands or other damages.
And as an ex battery maintenance guy I have seen a lot of bad things happen in even a shop where safety was observed.
Well that's all
Buyer beware.
Just trying to clarify here. You are saying that that specific Harbor Freight switch failed & caught on fire thus causing the battery to blow up?
'97 F150 4X4
'04 Pioneer 18T6
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Bucky Badger
Madison, WI
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patinlouisiana wrote:
IMHO
I think you should be looking for what is draining your batteries?
It's a VERY well known fact that there are parasitic drains in campers and if not used often batteries will go dead.
Fred & Jodie, dogs, Zoey & Mika
RIP Bella
2010 F150 5.4, 3.55, 4x4, Equli-z-er Hitch
2007 Forest River Salem 27RB LE
and
2009 Nomad 3980
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Bucky Badger
Madison, WI
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skipnchar wrote:The EASIEST disconnect switch is to simply remove the negative lead from the battery. Using a thumb screw on the terminal means it's a 5 second job and 100% effective.
I guarantee you can't un-do the battery box strap unhook the cable and put the strap back on in 5 seconds
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