landyacht318
Near a large body of water
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Joined: 07/11/2007
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How do you think these two panels will play together?
Kyocera TM 130. This is already on my roof.
130 watts
7.39 amps
17.6 voltage at max power
21.9 Open circuit voltage
8.02 short circuit current
Unisolar PVL68. Considering this panel
68 watts
4.13 amps
16.5 voltage at max power
23.1 open circuit voltage
5.1 short circuit current
Charge controller Blue Sky 2512i(no battery temp sensor possible)
2 Crown Deep Cycle group 27 115 a/h each.
I Don't have room for another framed panel without major modifications to my fiberglass roof.
The Unisolar laminate would fit my available space and install easily.
I have other questions regarding where to combine the panels. I can not run them in series with my Charge controller. 12 volt nominal only.
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MrWizard
Van Nuys, Ca
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Joined: 06/27/2004
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yes they will work okay together, not a perfect identical match, but many people living off grid use mis-matched panels as they slowly build their Solar array
you just don't see very much of it on the RV roof top.
I have 5 unisolar older FRAMED thin film panels, and 4 other panels that were already on the RV from the PO
it all works, it just NOT a perfectly matched system, some panels work harder than others, but they ALL contribute, except maybe the two smallest & oldest, which i am in the process of evaluating
i say go for the unisolar panel and enjoy the extra added wattage
Options, always have options, and the journey goes much smoother
....
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landyacht318
Near a large body of water
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Joined: 07/11/2007
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Thanks. I might just go ahead and order it next payday.
I currently have 12 awg cable from 130 watt panel to charge controller.
I am going to add 8 awg cable. Should I just leave the 12awg in place and combine the 2 panels in the Kyocera's junction box splitting the current among the 12 and the 8, or should I run the 12 awg from unisolar 64 to CC and 8 awg from KC 130tm to the CC?
Since I can only parallel 12v nominal panels with my CC, does it matter where I combine the panels, at the Junction box, or at the controller?
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Golden_HVAC
Fulltime, CA, USA
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Joined: 08/19/2003
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Hi,
I would use the #12 wire to the smaller amperage panel, and the new wiring to the older higher amperage panel, and combine them at the solar controllers input terminal.
For what it matters, I have #10 wire going to a pair of 120 watt panels, and another run of #10 wire to a pair of 45 watt and a 75 watt panel, both being connected to my 50 amp controller, with #8 wire gong to my battery about 4 feet away.
Because the wire length is so short, the size is really not a problem. If I needed more power, then I might upgrade the wire size, but for now it seems to work fine.
Fred.
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pianotuna
Regina, SK, Canada
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Joined: 12/18/2004
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Hi,
It would be better if the voltages were more similar (within 1 volt). How about adding a low cost controller to the 68 watt panel?
Series may be a bad idea with those two panels.
I use 4-#12 from my panels to a combiner box. Then a prewire #10 to the controller (BS 3024di with temperature compensation). Final leg is #8 to the battery bank.
Today I'd buy the Rogue controller instead of the Blue Sky--not that the blue sky is a bad controller, just that the Rogue is more fully featured.
Regards, Don
Kustom Koach Class C 28'5" 256 watts solar, 875 amp hours in two battery banks 12 volt batteries 2500 watt inverter.
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BFL13
Victoria, BC
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Joined: 02/15/2006
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I would run its own set of wires and controller to the batteries and let both chargers add their amps at the battery. I like this controller for that job for its great price and features:
http://boatandrvaccessories.com/2510.htm
If not that way, then on the roof, run wires from each panel to one spot and then a single pair down to the one controller. I was advised last year by Mr Wiz and others to do it that way, and I did a measurement and it is true, I got more amps that way than by running wires from one panel to the other and the from that panel down to the controller.
2003 Chev 2500HD ExtCab, LB, 2WD, 6.0/4.10 Gas
2003 Komfort 26FS 5er (28.5 Ft-RK-10,000lb GVWR)
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renoman69
Edmonton Alberta
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Joined: 02/09/2009
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IMHO I would would put a good combiner box on the roof and run as heavy a pair of wires as you can to your CC and then to your batts. This way you can do whatever on the roof with your panels and never have to change the rest of your wiring. You never know if you may have to replace a panel some day or you may get a different CC and want to run in series. With a good combiner box on the roof all you have to do is move around the wires in the box and not have to worry about pulling everything through your RV.
2009 Jayco Eagle Superlite 25.5RKS
2008 Silverado 2500HD Z71 4x4 Duramax/Allison
Reese 15K slider
Honda EU2000I,
270 watts of Kyocera solar
Blue Sky 3024i controller
450 AHs of Trojan power
Xantrex True Charge 2 40amp charger
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MrWizard
Van Nuys, Ca
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Joined: 06/27/2004
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VOC is not a big concern in this case
the VMP is close enough ( 1.1v difference )
they will be connected to the controller and thus to the load at all time when sun light is available to produce power
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landyacht318
Near a large body of water
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Joined: 07/11/2007
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I had not considered the second charge controller. My current CC has a tendency to act funny whenever there is another charging source present above 85% SOC. I'd really like to just parallel both panels through the one controller. I do wish I sprung for the sb2512iX which does have a battery temp sensor.
I've been wanting to make use of the expensive 12awg marine tinned cable I already have running through my roof, but it will not reach the new intended location for my charge controller without splicing.
8 AWG should really be enough for anything I can get on my limited roof, but I installed the 12 awg through my fiberglass roof with 3M 5200 adhesive sealant, and might not want to deal with removing that cable and the 3M 5200, just to put the 8 awg in the same place.
Not too hard to drill another hole for it and have 2 wire runs through my roof.
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landyacht318
Near a large body of water
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Joined: 07/11/2007
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Okay, Unisolar installed and wired. The KYC 130 tm has 19 feet of new 8 awg cable, and the Unisolar 68 watt panel has 20 feet of 10 awg connected at the Charge controller.
1 foot of 4 awg cable from CC to (+)Buss stud, 1 foot of 4 awg cable from CC(-) to Shunt. 2.5 feet of 2 awg wire between shunt/stud and battery posts.
Today there were some thin high clouds. This is what my monitor was reading around noon today.
Works for me. Adding less than 50% more watts, and upgrading the wiring have given me more than 50% more amps into my batteries
I'm happy. My batteries will be happier.
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