bpounds
Whittier CA
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You've got to go up quite a bit. Personally I would consider moving both, so that neither is at the far end of adjustment range. It's not a big job to change either/both.
Bill and Carol
2006 F250 Diesel
2011 Keystone Cougar 278RKSWE Fiver
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webslave
Clearville, PA
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The biggest advantage of one over the other is, IMHO, the hitch doesn't require holding up It can be braced up with scrap lumber, a couple of jack stands, etc. Lowering the pin box, however, requires some means of supporting it well off the ground; two friends to help you, a forklift or front end loader (the way I put my Tri Glide TrailAir on), etc. That pin box is heavy, very heavy. Personally, I prefer the pin box to be as high as possible, to limit torque stress on the frame as mentioned in another post, albeit, that additional torque stress is minimal and should be well within the design engineering of the frame.
That being said, pick the easiest, mechanically, for you.
My 2 cents, your mileage may vary...
Don
Bronwyn
3 Cats - Coco, J-Lo and Ragamuffin 
2011 Keystone Cougar 318SAB
2011 Ram 2500 Longhorn CTD HO
Built in brake controller and exhaust brake
Tri Glide TrailAir Pinbox with a B&W Companion Hitch
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jaycocamprs
Ringgold Georgia
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With my setup it is easier to move the hitch up. Plus the higher the hitch the less likely you will be to make contact between the pinbox and the side rails of the bed during a sharp turn. Plus as already said you can better see the hitch and you will have more clearance over the V-gate if you have (or get) one.
2005 Silverado 3500 DRW
2011 Montana Mountaineer 285RLD
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NorthernLimits
Michigan
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bpounds wrote:You've got to go up quite a bit. Personally I would consider moving both, so that neither is at the far end of adjustment range. It's not a big job to change either/both.
The way I understand it, I need to have about 6 inches. I currently have about 4. Each adjustment on the hitch is 2 inches. Same with the pin box.
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bpounds
Whittier CA
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NorthernLimits wrote:bpounds wrote:You've got to go up quite a bit. Personally I would consider moving both, so that neither is at the far end of adjustment range. It's not a big job to change either/both.
The way I understand it, I need to have about 6 inches. I currently have about 4. Each adjustment on the hitch is 2 inches. Same with the pin box.
Okay, that's good. You don't have much to go. But 6" is a minimum, and judging from the pic I think you will need more than that to level the trailer. But it is hard to tell from a pic, and I could be wrong.
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jerb
phillipsburg, KS
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not to take away from op, but what is considered a really safe bootom of camper to top of box clearance? always read 6, but some of the places i camp can be pretty akward inclines backing into them!
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Wadcutter
IL
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Some people are forgetting their basic high school mechanical physics.
By moving the hitch up it raises your pivot point higher. You want that.
Think about what that means. With the hitch lower your pivot point is lower. Pull into a gas station or other road where you're no longer on level pavement. Truck pivots but 5er doesn't so the bed rail gets closer to the underside of the hangover. Which do you want? Lower pivot point or higher pivot point? Basic high school mechanical physics.
Camped in every state but Alaska
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NorthernLimits
Michigan
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Wadcutter wrote:Some people are forgetting their basic high school mechanical physics.
By moving the hitch up it raises your pivot point higher. You want that.
Think about what that means. With the hitch lower your pivot point is lower. Pull into a gas station or other road where you're no longer on level pavement. Truck pivots but 5er doesn't so the bed rail gets closer to the underside of the hangover. Which do you want? Lower pivot point or higher pivot point? Basic high school mechanical physics.
What about center of gravity? Seems like that should factor into your high school physics.
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valhalla360
No paticular place.
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Joined: 08/19/2009
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NorthernLimits wrote:Wadcutter wrote:Some people are forgetting their basic high school mechanical physics.
By moving the hitch up it raises your pivot point higher. You want that.
Think about what that means. With the hitch lower your pivot point is lower. Pull into a gas station or other road where you're no longer on level pavement. Truck pivots but 5er doesn't so the bed rail gets closer to the underside of the hangover. Which do you want? Lower pivot point or higher pivot point? Basic high school mechanical physics.
What about center of gravity? Seems like that should factor into your high school physics.
Whether you raise it by changing the hitch or the pin box has negligible impact on the center of gravity.
A higher pivot point gives you a little more margin for error with uneven ground but by a very small margin.
Tammy Mike & the Bilge Rat (AKA: Diego)
Ford F250 7.3L
1997 Sunnybrook 27' 5er
1995 Gemini Sail Catamaran 34'
Full Time spliting time between boat and 5er
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bpounds
Whittier CA
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jerb wrote:not to take away from op, but what is considered a really safe bootom of camper to top of box clearance? always read 6, but some of the places i camp can be pretty akward inclines backing into them!
Largely depends on where you camp. We like forest service campgrounds, where bad roads, pot holes, and not level sites are the norm. I have 7" of clearance, and sure wouldn't want any less. For the road warriors that mostly use commercial parks that are pristinely groomed, a 6" clearance is probably generous.
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