mscamping
any place, USA
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Joined: 10/27/2000
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I would start where the shore line goes into the coach, it should go into a box, that should be your auto transfer switch, that is what switches your power from shore to generator and back after you shut the gen off.. I would open the box and check volt when you're hooked into shore power, if it is coming in but not going out, the ATS is bad and needs to be replaced.. I just changed ours as it was not transfering voltage to the coach from the gen.. I got one made in Elkhart In. Elkhart Supply Company.. $192.50 and it took me about 2 hours to change.. Mike M..
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tporter
Southern California
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Joined: 01/28/2006
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Branson in Tucson wrote:Has this been going on for a while, or has it just happen at the present RV Park? I would try first a different space, it could just be the present shore power box.
Currently the coach is parked at the house. It hasn't moved and I haven't had any electrical problems at the house. I did check the outlet that the coach was plugged into, it has no problems running anything else. Everything worked well with the motorhome, then the next time I plugged it in the light came on in the display center over the passengers head then went out. Thats where i'm at now. I plug the coach in, the start up lights come on then go out. At no time can I run anything.
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harleyman1340
Marietta, Ga, US
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If you don't have a volt meter, it's a good idea to have one, they are realitevely inexpensive and easy to use for basic functions. As long as you are 100% the box at the house is ok check the power coming into the transfer switch and out to the breaker box in the coach. When I had the same problem as you, I didn't have power coming into the transfer switch when on shore power, turns out I had to replace the plug on my shore porwer cord. Before checking the power at the transfer switch, make sure the generator is off and the power cord is not connected and make sure the wires in the transfer switch are tight and look for burned wires. When checking the wires in the transfer switch you will have four wires coming into the box, red, black, green and white. Checking the red/black to each other should show 240 volts, checking red to the white or green should give you 120 volts, checking the black to white or green should give you 120 volts, and of course checking the white to green should give you 0 volts. Good luck and be carefull when working around electricity.
Sonny, Anita and Phoebe
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rk911
Wheaton IL
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Joined: 05/30/2004
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tporter wrote:If I need a new transfer switch my coach is set up for 50 amps. Is there any difference between switches? In other words will any 50 amp switch work or is it brand name specific?
yes. as far as i know all txfr switches can handle 50-amps and are generic. *if* the switch is the problem it may not be fried. one relay may be stuck or the wires loose.
73,
rich, n9dko
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harleyman1340
Marietta, Ga, US
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As far as a replacement switch I agree with rk911, they are all fairly generic and do the same function. The main advantage to replacing the switch with one like you already have is the wires and box will fit in the same place and be easier to replace. With a different box you may have to reroute the wires and I don't think that would be much fun.
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sbishop
Eagle Rock, CA
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Joined: 08/09/2001
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Contrary to some folks opinions, some older and lower end RVs do have transfer switches. Our '90 bounder has a Prgressive Dynamic three stage controller with time delay and transfer switch. If you are anywhere near us, PM me and I will help you with chasing down your problem. If you're not familiar Eagle Rock is near Pasadena.
I looked up the current prices for transfer switches and they run from about $190.00 to $250.00 for 50 AMP and over %300.00 for 100 AMP. We're expecting some Kiwi visitors today so I am helping the DW prep the house. One of the kids bedrooms was converted to an office and computer room when the birds flew the nest and I had to put everything in hiding for a few days so the Kiwis will have a room.
What I would like to know is the mfg, and model of your converter so I can get the schematic off line and see how your's works.
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