wa8yxm wrote:
Cars (This applies to pick up trucks as well) fall into 4 groups.
1: Can be towed, no problem.
2: Can be towed with VERY MINOR modification (IE: Pull a fuse or install a switch in that fuse lead, KITS are sold for the switch option)
3: Can be towed with MAJOR modification (Lube Pump, Axle Lock or Drive Shaft Disconnect, visit the Remco Towing web site for more on those)
4: DO NOT TOW. (kind of rare actually)
Figure out which class your car falls in and either trade or modify as needed.
next you need a tow bar, light kit and brake solution.
I am a firm believer in KISS (Keep It Super Simple) so first I'll discuss lights then tow bars.
The simple solution for lights are 3 fold.
With some cars the owners prefer to use "Tow light bars" this is either two lights, with mag bases, or a bar you basically "hang" on the back of the towed, cable runs up to the motor home.. I DO NOT RECOMMEND THIS.
Next is the "Add-a-bulb" in this case you drill a hole in the tail light fixture and .. Add a snap in socket with bulb, THIS is the tow light, cables are then rouged INSIDE the vehicle or zip tied to other cables outisde and up to the motor home. This is a good system.
The final system is the diode system, It's a box with some wires, you buy the kit specific for your car, Somewhere under the dash is a connector, you seperate the two halves, plug the two halves into the matching two connectors on the "KIT" and route the long wire up to the front... Where it hooks to the motor home.. THIS, is my choice, However It is no better than the add-a-bulb.
Now the tow bar and brakes.
The KISS-iest system I know of is the Ready brute tow bar with the Ready Brake brake system with the optional(?) Break away feature. One package does it all. Ready brake is the simplest braking system made, it consists of a cable that hooks to the pedal inside the car, it's then run through the firwall up to the front of the car, where a 2nd cable hooks to the tow bar, as the car pushes against the motor home (During braking) as simple system of levers pulls the cable and applies the brakes.. Oh, you have power brakes so when there is vacuum in the booster you don't need to pull so hard. NO PROBLEM it automatically adjusts (laws of physics involved so it is VERY automatic).
Quick to hook up and unhook, invisible to the driver of the car when driven.
Other tow bars are made by blue Ox or Roadmaster, both good systems I have a blue ox (Because that's what my dealer sells) but have to say both are roughly equal in quality and workmanship, I'd have no problem recommending either.
Get a system that stores ON THE MOTOR HOME not one that stores on the towed (Roadmaster makes both, Blue ox only the former)
Brakes if you don't go with the Ready brake.
There are systems in a box, you put the box in the driver's seat, (Well on the flooor) extend the arm to the pedal and plug it in, Easily transferred car to car when you change towed but .. A lot of work and easily "To heck withed" when you are only going a short tow.. This can lead to "I wish I'd hooked it up{-its.
US-Gear Unified brake Decelerator, Like the ready brake is invisible to the driver, Uses electricity (Which it gets from the motor home, keeps towed battery charged as a side effect) Easy hook up. Gives full control of the towed brakes from the motor home, My first choice.
M&G if your motor home has air brakes and there is room on the towed for it, Invisible to driver, Easy hook up, runs on air (From the motor home system)
Air Force One, Fits vehicles the M&G system will not, uses air plus electricity,
Invisible brake, uses air (provided by a compressor in the towed) and motor home electricity, This is the easiest to hook up system made (But only by a very slight amount)
My recommendation is either the Ready Brute/Brake system or the US Gear.
Offline
