ThePatricksRV
Indianapolis
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I am new to the world of RV ownership and need some help. I have Winnebago Sightseer 29R and would like to tow my car but don't know where to start. I am interested in a cost effective solution. What do I need? What don't I need? What should I be cautious of? I would appreciate any and all suggestions and advice. Thank you in advance. Tony
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the bear II
Torrance CA.
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Joined: 02/14/2008
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First you need to consult your owners manual to see if the manufacturer allows or restricts towing with the Sightseer.
The you need to check with your car manaul to see if it can be towed. Usually in the owners manual there will be some information about towing the car. If not in the manual check with the manufacturer.
If you can tow with the Sightseer it will show how heavy of a load you can tow. Is this more or less than what your car weighs. You want it to be at least 500 pounds more than what your car weighs for a safety cushion.
Cars with automatic transmissions may need a special device to provide fluid circulation or disconnection of the drivetrain for protection of the transmission.
You'll need a towbar system and hitch for the Sightseer.
I'm sure you'll get more susggestions from others. They will want to know what year, make and model of your car. Automatic or stick shift.
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rr2254545
Minnesota
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Joined: 07/12/2009
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Look under dingy towing on here a wealth of information
2012 Winnebago Journey 36 M Cummins 360
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goodcruisin
Greenwood, IN
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Joined: 04/17/2007
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1) You need to see if your car (toad) is towable four down at dinghy guide
2) If it is towable 4 down you'll need a tow bar, baseplate and aux. braking system. I like Ready Brake because it's a tow bar and brake combined. I use a Demco baseplate.
3) If it's not towable four down and it's front wheel drive you'll need a dolly.
I also recommend a Protect-a-tow to save your paint from chips.
John (USN Ret) & Debbie
Tux (APBT/Dalmation)
'96 Monaco Windsor 36' DP 8.3 Cummins
Ready Brake & Demco Excali-bar
'02 F250 V10 w/ Banks Power Pack
'03 Ford Explorer
'04 Volvo S80 AWD
'05 Acura TL
240" Dragster 540 BBC
26' trailer
14' Boat w/9.9 Merc
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crabbin cabin
on the road
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Joined: 09/15/2011
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We are currently in the same predicament. Research shows me/you with 4 options:
1, convert current auto with accoutrements to make it '4-down' towable ( base plate, brakes, tranny lube tec.)
2. Buy a 4-down towable car ( new or used).
3. Buy a tow dolly to put the drive wheels of your car on.
4 Buy/ tow a full trailer that can carry your car.
There may be others but only you can decide which one will work for you.
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ThePatricksRV
Indianapolis
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Thanks for the advice so far. Based on the dinghy guide, my '08 Sonata is not 4-down towable so I'll need a dolly. A bit disappointing.
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Kirk
Livingston, Texas.
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crabbin cabin
Keep in mind that if you choose a trailer it will mean a much longer RV site is required. The dolly is probably best if you can't tow the chosen car.
ThePatricksRV
If you check with Remco's application charts you will find that they do make a kit to enable your Sonata to be flat towed. Check this link:
http://www.remcotowing.com/vehicles?make=546&model=1817&year=1997
Good travelin! ........Kirk
Professional Volunteer
Fulltimer for 11 years,
URL: www.adventure.1tree.net
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wa8yxm
Wherever I happen to park
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Cars (This applies to pick up trucks as well) fall into 4 groups.
1: Can be towed, no problem.
2: Can be towed with VERY MINOR modification (IE: Pull a fuse or install a switch in that fuse lead, KITS are sold for the switch option)
3: Can be towed with MAJOR modification (Lube Pump, Axle Lock or Drive Shaft Disconnect, visit the Remco Towing web site for more on those)
4: DO NOT TOW. (kind of rare actually)
Figure out which class your car falls in and either trade or modify as needed.
next you need a tow bar, light kit and brake solution.
I am a firm believer in KISS (Keep It Super Simple) so first I'll discuss lights then tow bars.
The simple solution for lights are 3 fold.
With some cars the owners prefer to use "Tow light bars" this is either two lights, with mag bases, or a bar you basically "hang" on the back of the towed, cable runs up to the motor home.. I DO NOT RECOMMEND THIS.
Next is the "Add-a-bulb" in this case you drill a hole in the tail light fixture and .. Add a snap in socket with bulb, THIS is the tow light, cables are then rouged INSIDE the vehicle or zip tied to other cables outisde and up to the motor home. This is a good system.
The final system is the diode system, It's a box with some wires, you buy the kit specific for your car, Somewhere under the dash is a connector, you seperate the two halves, plug the two halves into the matching two connectors on the "KIT" and route the long wire up to the front... Where it hooks to the motor home.. THIS, is my choice, However It is no better than the add-a-bulb.
Now the tow bar and brakes.
The KISS-iest system I know of is the Ready brute tow bar with the Ready Brake brake system with the optional(?) Break away feature. One package does it all. Ready brake is the simplest braking system made, it consists of a cable that hooks to the pedal inside the car, it's then run through the firwall up to the front of the car, where a 2nd cable hooks to the tow bar, as the car pushes against the motor home (During braking) as simple system of levers pulls the cable and applies the brakes.. Oh, you have power brakes so when there is vacuum in the booster you don't need to pull so hard. NO PROBLEM it automatically adjusts (laws of physics involved so it is VERY automatic).
Quick to hook up and unhook, invisible to the driver of the car when driven.
Other tow bars are made by blue Ox or Roadmaster, both good systems I have a blue ox (Because that's what my dealer sells) but have to say both are roughly equal in quality and workmanship, I'd have no problem recommending either.
Get a system that stores ON THE MOTOR HOME not one that stores on the towed (Roadmaster makes both, Blue ox only the former)
Brakes if you don't go with the Ready brake.
There are systems in a box, you put the box in the driver's seat, (Well on the flooor) extend the arm to the pedal and plug it in, Easily transferred car to car when you change towed but .. A lot of work and easily "To heck withed" when you are only going a short tow.. This can lead to "I wish I'd hooked it up{-its.
US-Gear Unified brake Decelerator, Like the ready brake is invisible to the driver, Uses electricity (Which it gets from the motor home, keeps towed battery charged as a side effect) Easy hook up. Gives full control of the towed brakes from the motor home, My first choice.
M&G if your motor home has air brakes and there is room on the towed for it, Invisible to driver, Easy hook up, runs on air (From the motor home system)
Air Force One, Fits vehicles the M&G system will not, uses air plus electricity,
Invisible brake, uses air (provided by a compressor in the towed) and motor home electricity, This is the easiest to hook up system made (But only by a very slight amount)
My recommendation is either the Ready Brute/Brake system or the US Gear.
Nothin adds excitment like something that is none of your business
Kenwood TS-2000 housed in a 2005 Damon Intruder 377
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jgtown
SoCal
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For the lighting, I'll throw in my solution. The light fixtures in my car's rear end are electrically isolated from the car and I discovered by random chance that the wiring harness for the tail lights uses the same plug as the stereo. So I bought a couple stereo wiring kits for ten bucks and ran a standard 4-wire trailer cable from the nose of the car back to my "custom" plugs. Running lights to running lights on the car, Turn/brake to the brake lights, ground to ground. When I tow, I just unplug the car's tail light plugs and pop in the trailer plugs. A low-tech spin on wa8yxm's third choice.
Of course, I have to remember to switch back when I drive the car. 
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wannavolunteerFT
South Georgia
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Another vote for the Ready Brake.. it is really is simple to use. I researched a lot of brakes to come up with one for my parents tow vehicle. They use is with a Blue Ox Aventa tow bars, since they are easily adjustable. Actually they had tow bars, and then added the brake prior to trip this past fall. Their Cobalt is light enough it does not require supplemental brakes in our home state or the adjoining couple of states, but prior to a trip further away, we discovered the state we were planning to spend some time in, required a supplemental brake to we had the Ready Brake added. Now it takes about 30 seconds to connect the brake cables (including breakaway0.
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