bikendan
Napa, Cal.
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AC09 wrote:I am the first one to admit I am cheap so should they be used on both sides?
if you are truly cheap, like me, you should make your own out of 4x4 pressure treated wood and threaded stock.
cost me about $12 total for both chocks.
many members here have done this.
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Chuck&Gail
In the Colorado Mountains
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Joined: 06/16/2004
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I use Rotochoks instead, but only between the wheels up on Leveler Blocks. Wheels on the ground just get cheap plastic wedge chocks.
Please do chock both sides somehow, trailers have been known to turn with only one side chocked. Makes for great excitement, so I'm told.
Chuck
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ExRocketScientist
Laurel, MD
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Joined: 11/11/2010
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mlts22 wrote:I like the BAL X chocks because of the ability to slap a padlock on them. However, I do agree about having a wedge chock under both sides if on a hill, just for safety's sake.
I have both styles of the BAL. They are all metal instead of plastic so I can put a lot of pressure on them. The cam one can be locked with the padlock. The other one uses a wrench and can't be locked, but I am able to adjust it tight enough that even after the tires cool down, it is still tight enough.
I also normally use one other chock. I have had experiences with chocks sliding on me, so I prefer a design that can't slide.  Well let me explain. There is only one site I have ever camped on that was level side to side. So I always have to put something under the wheels on one side to level it up. I have become fond of the Lynx levelers. Well not only can you get a bag of 10 of those Lego style blocks, but you can also get caps and chocks. The chocks are made to lock into the block that already has a wheel on it before the wheel even touches the chock. That keeps the chock from sliding as soon as the tire starts pushing on it. I always put the trailer on the leveling blocks from the uphill side with the chock on the downhill side. Here is a link to the products (I have the caps too):
http://www.lynxlevelers.com/newtest/new_index.php#htmlreturn
I notice from the Norco Industries website that both of my BAL chocks are obsolete. The bottom one on this page is similar to the one I have that uses a wrench but this version can be locked, unlike the one I have:
Look at the model 28005 at the bottom of this page
ERS
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wbwood
Troutman, NC
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mlts22 wrote:I like the BAL X chocks because of the ability to slap a padlock on them. However, I do agree about having a wedge chock under both sides if on a hill, just for safety's sake.
x2
Brian
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Ron3rd
Upland, CA USA
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AC09 wrote:I see alot of people using these so I figure they must preffer them to wheel chocks. I am the first one to admit I am cheap so should they be used on both sides?
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Camco-Wheel-Stop/14504364
Yes, you should use one on each side. Buy 2.
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beemerphile1
I'm only 57, I'm not yet a
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I use one of these;
I have never needed to tighten after cooling and I have never needed a second one although it wouldn't be a bad idea. I wouldn't trust those plastic things. I doubt they will hold as well as steel and they certainly won't be as durable.
I would definitely use two if I had those cheap plastic ones.
Tim
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bsbeedub
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Inexpensive does not mean cheap. The Camco chocks work just fine. I do have to re-tighten after the tires cool down but it takes me 5 seconds for each side so that is certainly not a deal breaker. It's a good product and I do recommend them.
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SuperDutyMan
Western PA.
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You can buy the good steel bal-chock style for about 12.00 more than the plastic one and it comes with a ratchet tool with it,if your cheap make your own wood ones or pay 12 bucks more than the camco and get a good ratcheting steel type...JMO!
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ExRocketScientist
Laurel, MD
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Joined: 11/11/2010
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SuperDutyMan wrote:You can buy the good steel bal-chock style for about 12.00 more than the plastic one and it comes with a ratchet tool with it,if your cheap make your own wood ones or pay 12 bucks more than the camco and get a good ratcheting steel type...JMO!
The other nice thing about the "ratchet" (it is a ratcheting box end wrench that comes with the chock) is that one end will fit the stabilizer jacks if your stabilizer jacks have a 3/4" hex on the end of the drive screw. I have been in situations where the crank handle would not turn all the way without hitting the ground or scraping my knuckles on the ground. I just grabbed that "ratchet" and used it instead.
I also rigged up the winch for my spare tire to have a 3/4" hex on the end. If the DeWalt cordless drill is out of action, I can use the "ratchet" on that too.
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