dbharsh

Pacific Grove

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Joined: 02/06/2009

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Good day, all.
DW and I sold our older rig last April, and are jonesing for another RV. I am looking at a 93 Four Winds that has been sitting for several years. I know it will be a project to get ready for our trip this summer, but I wanted your input on things to look out for that might indicate a no-go on the purchase. Things like generator rebuilds, etc.
Will appreciate any advise.
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chinook440

chicago

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Joined: 03/03/2009

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Water damage and critter infestation would be the first 2 no goes for me.
1978 Chinook Concourse On A Dodge MB300 Chassis
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mikeleblanc413

Sour Lake, Texas

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Joined: 07/17/2010

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Having just purchased our first Class C...I offer the following: I did my homework compiling my list of manufacturers, floor plans, wants and don't wants, etc. I decided to forgo an inspection by an RV inspector. I'm comfortable with that.
The one thing I would do differently is to have a Seal Test leak test performed. While it may not be a deal breaker, it would alert me to potential problems and might be a bargaining chip.
While we've been dealing with a cabover leak that I fully suspect was there when we bought it and that the owner was unaware of, we're very pleased with our purchase.
Every day is a new experience...have fun with it!!!!
Mike LeBlanc
Retired Educator, Texas Certified Art EC-12, Professional Photographer
Sour Lake, Texas
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2000 Minnie Winnie DL, 429U, V10,
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travisc

Pacific NW

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Joined: 12/14/2008

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What kind of shape is it in? Tires? brakes battery? Interior?
Winnebago Access 24V
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oldtrucker63

Harlan Kentucky

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Joined: 12/10/2009

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Water is the main thing to look for, Most RV's at this age have fairly low miles on Engine drive train and generator, Just sitting outside for a long time can turn a great RV into junk, Be careful and look it over really good.
Without Trucks,....America Stop's
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RickETN

Newport Tenn

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Joined: 01/26/2012

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travisc wrote: What kind of shape is it in? Tires? brakes battery? Interior? .
Old machinist here, I can't help with water leaks, those you have to look for yourself. But here's a good check list.
Depending on the frame year, go to Harbor Freight and buy the ODB tester, doesn't hurt to own both ODB and ODB II. Sure they will set you back $150 for both. But by hooking an ODB up you will get all the codes showing emission and sensor problems.
You don't want to buy the Motorhome, then go for your tag and find out you failed the state inspection. No errors when you test drive mean NOTHING! Repeat NOTHING. I have a 1995 Volvo coupe. The check engine light comes on every couple of weeks. I use my ODB tester to erase the codes each time.
The same two errors show up all the time. Hunter Volvo want's $1,500 to fix the sensors. So the day of my annual state inspection. I clear the codes and get it inspected. Three years and counting.
Someone wanting to sell a used R,V needing a several hundreds to several thousand dollars worth of work can do the same thing. The morning you are coming to look at it. You buy it, then 2 weeks later the check engine light comes on. You think the seller is going to say, "Oh that's my fault, here's $1500.00 to fix it." or will you get "Gee, what did you do after driving it off? I NEVER saw that happen before!"
Everything check ok with the OBD tester? check the dipsticks. Not just for level, but smell. Oil clear? or is it muddy looking, that's water from a head gasket. Tranny nice and bright red? Brown? that's burnt bands. BOOCOO Bucks.
Engine look really, really clean? Get some plastic gloves, reach under the upper and lower radiator hoses, if they've pressure washed it, the gunk will still be under the hoses where the pressure washer can't reach.
Before I buy ANY VEHICLE, I inspect do my check offs, then tell them I'll be back in the morning. "Please do not crank it before I get there." An engine with bad valve guides or seals will leak some oil overnight. Never by a hot run engine before you get there. It could have been run 30 minutes to burn off the oil that leaked down. Cold start the next morning lets you see if you have a good engine or an old fashioned mosquito spraying truck.
Simple final electrical check, test drive it. Take it to the nearest Advanced Auto or Autozone, havem them test the alternator charging and battery. They do it for free, but I always give the tester a $5 bill and than them, "Next tasty beverage is on me."
Eyes wide open, keeps the wallet slammed shut.
Got any questions about mechanical stuff, just email me. When you're retired, you sometimes have a moment of free time to yak.
Rick East Tenn
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