WV_Tacoma
Huntington WV
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My friends,
I would like to know wheel hub spinning tension? The dexter book says slight drag from the breaks I assume.
I pulled 800miles and I check (thanks to my dad) the wheel play at every gas fill-up. They were loose on 3 of the 4 wheels. Maybe alot.....So I snug all up on road.
Now I am at a trailer park and want to do maint on the bearings and brakes etc. I have asked many many Vets with really big trailer what they do, and they don't do anything....I am not going that route, I am just new but understand wheels falling off my 20' rig!
My dexter book says slight tension on wheel hub when spun by hand.
I cleaned and inspected properly the bearings, housing,racers, and spindles with no wear or sign of overheating, discoloration etc...So i have reused them.
NOw I have spun the hubs after 50foot # of torque and backed the nut off 1 constilation....slot....and spun the hub, the breaks appear to be dragging it down, If I spin (one man size spin, it goes around about 1 turn before coming to a halt) I would think that I would want them to spin freely with a very slight drag, maybe 2-3 rotations with out stopping....
what do you think? should the brakes be dragging it quickly or lots of free spinning????
Thanks for your help my friends!
WV_tacoma
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ExRocketScientist
Laurel, MD
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I think you have this close . . . You want to torque to 50 ft lb without it spinning and then back off 1 castellation. Then you can do a spin test. 1 to 2 turns should be about right. You should only hear the brakes drag on one or two small spots as it goes around, not all the way around.
I would run down the road about 10 miles, pull off and check the temperatures with an infrared thermometer. While there is no set temperature, I have not seen temperatures above 115 except the one time things were too tight. Then I was over 150 degrees on one of mine. You are mainly looking for a significant difference in temperatures from one wheel to the next.
ERS
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Kennedycamper
Algoa, Texas
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The brakes should be heard, but still able to make a rotation or two before it stops after a good roll. Remember on the bearings that are a little loose are better than bearings that are too tight.
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ScottG
Bothell Wa.
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Dexter and Alko both stipulate 3/4 to 1 turn when you spin it. Most people adjust them way too loose. Sorry Laurel but 2 turns is much too loose.
Scott, Grace and Wesly
2003 Dodge 3500 4x4, 6 speed Cummins (lightly bombed),
2004 Forest River 25RKS many, many mods.
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WV_Tacoma
Huntington WV
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Ok, I think with your all good help, I can understand the mechanics behind it. TI...Wow.. you really use a Ti to test temp? I normally use the hand method. but always ready to learn.
I got them now to turn about 1 turn with slight drag. I feel this is good with all your input and my reading/studying. Makes since.
Some how the perfectionist in me wants a free spinning hub with min drag...But Ok thanks for your input.
Kindest regards
WV_tacoma
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gmw photos
midwest
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Forgive me if I am not understanding what you all are trying to say, but it appears to me that the OP, and perhaps some others are confusing two separate issues.
First there is wheel bearings, and second, there are brakes.
The general rule of thumb for tapered roller bearings is to snug them up with the big castle nut tight enough to make certain the bearings are seated correctly to the bearing races. I have seen torque figures from 15 lb-ft to as much as 50 lb-ft. It's important to be rotating the hub as you apply this torque, You then loosen the nut to the first available slot that you can align a cotter pin. If all is well, you will be able to freely rotate the hub, but you should feel little to no end play. In other words, if you pull the hub towards you, and press it away, there ideally should be no movement. The hub should also spin essentially "freely" with no binding. A heavy drag as you spin it would indicate it is too tight, which could cause the bearing to overheat. The consequence of an overheated bearing could be a failed bearing, or possibly even a failed spindle, either of which is a very bad thing. Some bearing or hub manufacturers will specify there can be perhaps .002" end play. If you are not familier with what that feels like, then it should be checked with a dial indicator.
Now that we addressed the bearing adjustment, we can move on to the brake adjustment. As another poster pointed out, a "very slight" brake drag in part of the rotation would be considered okay or even normal. Again, in no circumstance do we want to feel a heavy drag as we rotate the drum all the way around. Overheated brakes would be a certainty in that case.
I too use a non contact infrared thermometer to keep an eye on all this while out on a drive. You can buy these from Hrbor Freight for less than $40, often on sale for $30. I like to "shoot the temps" of the tires, the brake drums, and the hubs as soon as I get out of the truck at a fuel or rest stop. This will help tell me if I have an underinflated tire, a dragging brake, or a wheel bearing that is too tight.
Hope this helps.
george
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ExRocketScientist
Laurel, MD
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gmw photos wrote:Forgive me if I am not understanding what you all are trying to say, but it appears to me that the OP, and perhaps some others are confusing two separate issues.
First there is wheel bearings, and second, there are brakes.
The general rule of thumb for tapered roller bearings is to snug them up with the big castle nut tight enough to make certain the bearings are seated correctly to the bearing races. I have seen torque figures from 15 lb-ft to as much as 50 lb-ft. It's important to be rotating the hub as you apply this torque, You then loosen the nut to the first available slot that you can align a cotter pin. If all is well, you will be able to freely rotate the hub, but you should feel little to no end play. In other words, if you pull the hub towards you, and press it away, there ideally should be no movement. The hub should also spin essentially "freely" with no binding. A heavy drag as you spin it would indicate it is too tight, which could cause the bearing to overheat. The consequence of an overheated bearing could be a failed bearing, or possibly even a failed spindle, either of which is a very bad thing. Some bearing or hub manufacturers will specify there can be perhaps .002" end play. If you are not familier with what that feels like, then it should be checked with a dial indicator.
Now that we addressed the bearing adjustment, we can move on to the brake adjustment. As another poster pointed out, a "very slight" brake drag in part of the rotation would be considered okay or even normal. Again, in no circumstance do we want to feel a heavy drag as we rotate the drum all the way around. Overheated brakes would be a certainty in that case.
I too use a non contact infrared thermometer to keep an eye on all this while out on a drive. You can buy these from Hrbor Freight for less than $40, often on sale for $30. I like to "shoot the temps" of the tires, the brake drums, and the hubs as soon as I get out of the truck at a fuel or rest stop. This will help tell me if I have an underinflated tire, a dragging brake, or a wheel bearing that is too tight.
Hope this helps.
george
The Dexter manual specifically says not to spin the wheel while torquing to 50 ft lb.
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gmw photos
midwest
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Quote:
The Dexter manual specifically says not to spin the wheel while torquing to 50 ft lb.
I took it from page 54-55 of the dexter complete service manual:
http://dexteraxle.com/i/u/6149609/f/6-8K_Service_Manual_6-11/600-8K_Complete_Service_Manual_6-11.pdf
( the relevant paragraph reads ):
1. .....rotate the hub slowly while tightening the spindle nut to approximately 50 lb-ft (12" wrench or pliers with full hand force )
2. Then loosen the spindle nut to release the torque. Do not rotate the hub.
3. finger tighten the spindle nut until just snug
4. back the spindle nut until the first castellation lines up with the cotter key hole and insert cotter key.
So....at least from the manual I read, they say, and I stand by what I said, that it is important to be rotating the hub while you are seating the bearings into the races.
Your manual may read differently.
For whatever it's worth ( I know, not much ! ) this is the way I was taught to install this style of bearing in the 1960's and it's the way I have done it countless times since then.
george
* This post was
edited 01/24/12 08:14pm by gmw photos *
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rpegram
Eastern NC
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I agree with GMW. I've done hundreds of little truck, big truck, bus, boat trailer and travel trailer bearings with hundreds of thousands of miles put on them and I've always done it like he describes.
I do always back the brakes off before doing this. I like to feel all drag caused by bearings and nothing from the brakes. After doing bearings, then I adjust the brakes. If quality grease is used and bearings properly tightened, rarely will they need any re-tightening until it is time for a repack. I'm not saying I don't check them, it's just that they don't need a wrench put on them.
Just my 2 cents thrown in.
2011 Jayco 26RLS
'92 26' Starcraft TT
'96 Dodge 3500 CC, 12 valve Cummins
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WV_Tacoma
Huntington WV
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Ok I got it.
After repacking bearings, turn the hub while applying pressure to get a full seat of the racers, bearings and all to take up any gaps. 50# on torque wrench or full arm strength on 12" wrench.
Then with out turning the hub (this is so the bearings don't slip out of position and create false tightness) get spindle nut to hand tight and back off 1 constellation.
Thanks
* This post was
edited 01/25/12 06:10am by WV_Tacoma *
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