mena661
Southern California
Senior Member
Joined: 03/21/2009
View Profile
 Offline
|
BFL13 wrote:
Math genius at work here  If non PF 100 is 23a AC then 80 would be 18.4a AC so with 23 being 15 PF'd, then 18.4 would be 12 so the 13.3a Honda should be just right for the PF'd 80 I thought only the 100 amper was PF'd?
2006 Ford F250 Lariat 6.0 PSD 2WD
2010 Keystone Outback Super-Lite 285FL 5er, Reese Signature Series 18K w/Manual Slider
Four Trojan L16 6V's (740Ah)
|
BFL13
Victoria, BC
Senior Member
Joined: 02/15/2006
View Profile
|
mena661 wrote:BFL13 wrote:
Math genius at work here If non PF 100 is 23a AC then 80 would be 18.4a AC so with 23 being 15 PF'd, then 18.4 would be 12 so the 13.3a Honda should be just right for the PF'd 80 I thought only the 100 amper was PF'd?
According to bestconverters.com the 75,80, and 100 are all PF'd.
I don't know why they have a 75 and an 80. They ditched the 55 for a 60. I would ditch the 75.
If I were in the business, I would advertise my converter line wrt to the usual generators out there like Honda 2000, 3000 etc and say which converter will run from which gen. I would also give a wiring table for gauge wrt to distance from the battery bank, and make sure the output terminals on the converter will take that size wire.
It is a serious PITA trying to use fatter wire with small terminals and having to jury rig in the various ways with pig tails or trimming strands so it will fit in the hole, etc. That also is a PITA for solar controllers and solar panel boxes.
I would have the terminals be a hefty ring lug type instead of a hole with a screw down, so you could bolt on any gauge wire that has its own ring terminal on it. Then you don't have to try to jam a fat wire into a small hole.
2003 Chev 2500HD ExtCab, LB, 2WD, 6.0/4.10 Gas
2003 Komfort 26FS 5er (28.5 Ft-RK-10,000lb GVWR)
|
mena661
Southern California
Senior Member
Joined: 03/21/2009
View Profile
Offline
|
BFL13 wrote:
If I were in the business, I would advertise my converter line wrt to the usual generators out there like Honda 2000, 3000 etc and say which converter will run from which gen. I agree. Saves some time from having to figure it ourselves.
|
pkunk
Questa, NM
Senior Member
Joined: 12/28/2007
View Profile
Offline
|
BFL13 wrote:mena661 wrote:BFL13 wrote:
Math genius at work here If non PF 100 is 23a AC then 80 would be 18.4a AC so with 23 being 15 PF'd, then 18.4 would be 12 so the 13.3a Honda should be just right for the PF'd 80 I thought only the 100 amper was PF'd?
According to bestconverters.com the 75,80, and 100 are all PF'd.
I don't know why they have a 75 and an 80. They ditched the 55 for a 60. I would ditch the 75.
If I were in the business, I would advertise my converter line wrt to the usual generators out there like Honda 2000, 3000 etc and say which converter will run from which gen. I would also give a wiring table for gauge wrt to distance from the battery bank, and make sure the output terminals on the converter will take that size wire.
It is a serious PITA trying to use fatter wire with small terminals and having to jury rig in the various ways with pig tails or trimming strands so it will fit in the hole, etc. That also is a PITA for solar controllers and solar panel boxes.
I would have the terminals be a hefty ring lug type instead of a hole with a screw down, so you could bolt on any gauge wire that has its own ring terminal on it. Then you don't have to try to jam a fat wire into a small hole.
Boy, ain't that the truth!
1999 Coachman Mirada 34 ft.V10-F53 chassis
12ft.LR slide-2 gp31 AGM 12V @220AH
|
TCS2012
Dartmouth
New Member
Joined: 01/18/2012
View Profile
Offline
|
Thanks for all the great info foloks It is sounding more and more like it will be the PMBD 80. The 30 min difference for me in gen time versus the IOTA suggested is huge. Not so much in $ but in noise. The less the better.
A few more questions:
Does anyone know what the max gauge wire size is for the PMBD 80?
If a 50-90 takes around 2 hours with a 50-90, would a 60-90 or 70-90 be quicker? Would it be better or worse for the batteries?
Finally is it really necessary to have a desulfation phase incorporated into your battery maitenace program?
Thanks again for all the great insight!!
|
|
|
smkettner
Southern California
Senior Member
Joined: 03/21/2005
View Profile
Good Sam RV Club Member
|
I will be delighted to hear how well the PMBD 80 works out.
You will need a voltmeter and ammeter to post real results.
* This post was
edited 01/20/12 09:25pm by smkettner *
2001 F150 SuperCrew
2006 Keystone Springdale 249FWBHLS
675 watts solar
Send a PM if I missed something
|
mena661
Southern California
Senior Member
Joined: 03/21/2009
View Profile
Offline
|
TCS2012 wrote:Finally is it really necessary to have a desulfation phase incorporated into your battery maitenace program? 50-90 is quicker. Higher the SOC the higher the battery resistance, the less amps going to the battery. If you're doing multiple 50-90's on a trip, you'll need a good desulfate routine. The easiest is the Black and Decker VEC1093DBD portable charger. You just let it run in the desulfate mode until it finishes.
|
pianotuna
Regina, SK, Canada
Senior Member
Joined: 12/18/2004
View Profile
Offline
|
Hi TSC,
Any time the battery bank is not brought to 100% state of charge desulfation will be needed. The more 50 to 90ties that are done the harder that may be to accomplish.
60 to 90 and 70 to 90 would also cause sulfation to occur.
If silence is truly golden, then consider a solar system.
Regards, Don
Kustom Koach Class C 28'5" 256 watts solar, 875 amp hours in two battery banks 12 volt batteries 2500 watt inverter.
|
BFL13
Victoria, BC
Senior Member
Joined: 02/15/2006
View Profile
|
The reason you go down to 50% before recharging is to get the high amp battery acceptance rate in the mid-SOC area. At higher SOC the battery will take fewer amps, no matter what the charger could do.
So on the 220ah bank, you would start out at 80 amps and after say 30 minutes (or less)amps will start to taper and by 90% SOC amps will be around 10amps. By 75% amps might be down to 45 amps.
If you started the recharge at 75% you might as well only have a 45 amp charger, because your 80amper will only do 45 anyway.
All the approx 30 min time savings are up front while the 80 amper's amps are still above 45. After that they will each take the same time to complete the recharge.
If you want to shorten the recharge then do a 50-80 instead of a 50-90. However the whole idea is the daily AH use has to be replaced so your 50-80 is 30% of the bank's capacity of 220AH or 66AH. If your daily AH use is 80ah that won't work. A 50-90 is 40% or 88AH
With 6s instead of 12s you can get away more often going down to 40% instead of 50. So you could do a 40-80, more of which is in the high amps zone, so faster than a 50-90.
However doing 50-90s is an "incomplete" recharge, so you can only do so many (maybe six) before the batteries lose too much capacity and need to be recharged to 100% and then given an overcharge to clear the sulfation and get them back to full capacity again.
So your time off grid is limited doing that to say two weeks or 10 days -whatever. (ASSuming you use 44AH per day and do an 88AH recharge every second day) That is where solar comes into play. With that (that being a costly full solar set, not a toy one) you can keep the batteries near topped up every day so you can go a long time off grid. However that is a different story.
|
mena661
Southern California
Senior Member
Joined: 03/21/2009
View Profile
Offline
|
X2 on BFL
|
|
|
