Atchafalaya_man
Lafayette, Louisiana
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Joined: 08/24/2009
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Member Brian and I were discussing the 'full-time-hot-lead' on some truck's trailer/bumper receptacles. Some of us install a relay to prevent draining the truck battery.
I extended the camper's short pigtail wire but rather than install a relay, I inserted a 50 amp automobile switch in the wiring. The switch stays turned off most of the time and one must not forget to turn it off if parked for a good while.
If the camper battery gets low, start the truck, throw the switch, and the camper's battery is given a boost.
While I've never had a truck battery die on me yet, if it did, I think I could start the camper's generator, engage the switch, and the truck's batteries would be boosted by the camper's generator.
Regardless, here are some pictures of the camper's wire piped back to the bumper receptacle.
After the fact, I wired a flat receptacle for my boat trailer's lights. Had I thought about it, I would have run it too in the conduit.
This is a 'slack box' I installed to help pull the wires, etc. It is not really necessary.
I used silicone to glue some light supports for the trailer wire. They've been on there 3 years. I guess I could clean up this job.
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mountainkowboy
Socal High Desert
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Joined: 09/20/2004
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I found a Chassis battery cut-off switch at CW for about $20. It will handle up to 100 amps continous. I mounted it under my sink where its easy to get to inside. That way I dont have to leave the camper to disconnect the truck battery. My S&S didnt have any relay or diode installed fron the factory to keep from killing the truck battery.
Chuck & Ruth with 4-legged Dixie & Hanna
1990 Ford F350 S/C Dually, Camper Pkg, 460 & ZF 5spd, Banks Powerpack, Torklift Superhitch/32" extension.
1990 S&S 11 SCB C/O
06 CRV
89 Harley FLTC
62 & 64 IH Scout 80's
RETIRED
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bwc
Atlantic Canada
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Joined: 04/20/2004
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Doug, thanks for displaying those pictures. It gives me a clear view of what you did and also gives me more ideas. Thanks.
Brian
2003 Dodge Laramie SLT 3500 dually diesel 4x2 auto and 2009 Northstar 9.5 Igloo U. Love this combo. Very fuel efficient, lots of room, easy to park and set up.
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Atchafalaya_man
Lafayette, Louisiana
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Brian; Are you up in Nova Scotia? I know a couple of others up there.
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okeehandyman
south florida
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Joined: 02/02/2005
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On the hot lead from the truck battery to the camper,why not just use a relay that is closed when the key is on or opening the circuit when key is off? That way when the engine is running, there is charging to the TC or whatever else is in the circuit. and when the engine is off, there is no drain on the chassis battery. Or did I miss something in your proposed use? I just mounted a starter type relay under the hood of the truck.
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Atchafalaya_man
Lafayette, Louisiana
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okeehandyman wrote:On the hot lead from the truck battery to the camper,why not just use a relay that is closed when the key is on or opening the circuit when key is off? That way when the engine is running, there is charging to the TC or whatever else is in the circuit. and when the engine is off, there is no drain on the chassis battery. Or did I miss something in your proposed use? I just mounted a starter type relay under the hood of the truck.
Okee:
Let me explain where this post came from. In a private message, poster Brian (BWC), and I were discussing adding a heavy-enough wire to his camper's pigtail extension he was adding.
We discussed relays, etc. and as an alternative, I described the permanent conduit and manual switch. I couldn't explain it clearly, so I posted some pictures as a new post.
Some owners might look for an easy alternative to relays and the $5 auto switch solves that problem. And, it works on any vehicle to which the camper is connected.
My last truck actually had a relay-switched receptacle, but I added the fail-safe switch anyway when I spliced-in the camper cord's extension and inserted it in conduit.
Just another approach to keeping the camper battery separated from the truck battery.
Doug
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ticki2
NH
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Joined: 07/09/2008
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Atchafalaya_man wrote:okeehandyman wrote:On the hot lead from the truck battery to the camper,why not just use a relay that is closed when the key is on or opening the circuit when key is off? That way when the engine is running, there is charging to the TC or whatever else is in the circuit. and when the engine is off, there is no drain on the chassis battery. Or did I miss something in your proposed use? I just mounted a starter type relay under the hood of the truck.
Okee:
Let me explain where this post came from. In a private message, poster Brian (BWC), and I were discussing adding a heavy-enough wire to his camper's pigtail extension he was adding.
We discussed relays, etc. and as an alternative, I described the permanent conduit and manual switch. I couldn't explain it clearly, so I posted some pictures as a new post.
Some owners might look for an easy alternative to relays and the $5 auto switch solves that problem. And, it works on any vehicle to which the camper is connected.
My last truck actually had a relay-switched receptacle, but I added the fail-safe switch anyway when I spliced-in the camper cord's extension and inserted it in conduit.
Just another approach to keeping the camper battery separated from the truck battery.
Doug
Thanks for explaining that , I was a little lost myself for a while.
Two concerns I have :
1 . The length of run for the hot lead , full length of truck , back to front of camper , then to battery.
2 . Location of switch exposed to accidental or mischievous switching.
'68 Avion C-11
'02 GMC DRW D/A
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Atchafalaya_man
Lafayette, Louisiana
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ticki2 wrote:
Thanks for explaining that , I was a little lost myself for a while.
Two concerns I have :
1 . The length of run for the hot lead , full length of truck , back to front of camper , then to battery.
2 . Location of switch exposed to accidental or mischievous switching.
The OEM circuit uses a FORTY AMP FUSE. A 40 amp battery charging circuit? Too whimpy?
Two 10 gauge wires were routed around the outside of the 7 element wire. The corresponding wires in the 7 element were ignored. The plug had to be modified for the heavy wires to be used.
Checking the switch is part of the routine of shaking tie-downs and kicking tires at every stop. This thing would charge a battleship. A somewhat discharged camper battery is a breeze.
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ticki2
NH
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Atchafalaya_man wrote:
The OEM circuit uses a FORTY AMP FUSE. A 40 amp battery charging circuit? Too whimpy?
It might be at 3' away , but I'm guessing your run is more like 35'.
Have you been able to measure the input voltage and output voltage ?
I don't pretend to be an expert , just trying to learn .
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sundowners
suffolk UK
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Joined: 04/14/2007
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I put a switch near the sink on our TC to truck connection-----that way it is easy to borrow a little power from the truck's batteries when required
Nigel & Pamala----Spain
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