LAdams
Northern Illinois
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westend (and sh410)
Since you did not read my PM to you (westend) I'll post it here... When posting photos on RV.Net please adhere to the RV.Net Forum maximum size of 640X480 pixels... If you don't know how to resize, drop me a PM and I'll tell you a very easy way to do it...
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westend
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LAdams wrote:
westend (and sh410)
Since you did not read my PM to you (westend) I'll post it here... When posting photos on RV.Net please adhere to the RV.Net Forum maximum size of 640X480 pixels... If you don't know how to resize, drop me a PM and I'll tell you a very easy way to do it...
Thanks,
Moderator - TT Forum
So Sorry, I'm now seeing the "1 new PM" logo on the page. No problem, I can resize pictures in my camera software, also.
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westend
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sh410 wrote:
If this is the outlet to plug in shore power, it should be the male version of the same plug. The shore power cord will have the female version. Important for safety
If I make my own cord with 2 male ends would there be any problem? Could you explain the safety considerations? The one safety concern I can think of is that one could pull the end out of the TT and, if still energized from the CG pedestal, the pins would be hot.
* This post was
edited 01/16/12 01:58am by westend *
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sh410
Northwest
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Yep, thats why they call it a suicide cord. You can't always be there to assure that it is being handled properly.
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beemerphile1
I'm only 57, I'm not yet a
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westend wrote:
If I make my own cord with 2 male ends would there be any problem?
That could result in a major problem, DEATH! Never do anything like that, it could be you, your family, or a neighbor who ends up burying a loved one.
Tim
If you aren't paranoid, you aren't paying attention! 
2006 Weekend Warrior FK1900 towed by 1998 Ford E150 4.6L = 8 MPG
2009 Aliner Sport towed by 2009 Pontiac Vibe 1.8L = 22 MPG
1996 BMW R1100GS
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westend
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sh410 wrote:Yep, thats why they call it a suicide cord. You can't always be there to assure that it is being handled properly.
Exactly, that's why I'm looking around for a power inlet. I kind of got ahead of myself and thought, "what the heck, they should all be about the same". Later, the previous poster awakened the neural channels. I realized the safety issue, immediately. I'll spell it out so there is no confusion: If the double-ended (males) cord is unplugged from the trailer while the other end is still attached to the CG pedestal, the pins on the trailer side plug are still energized. If the pins would touch the metal trailer skin or a bypasser, there would be electrical mayhem or probable injury. I've been zapped more times than I like to think about but I bet getting tangled up with a male end like that would be a serious deal.
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beemerphile1
I'm only 57, I'm not yet a
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Here is what some use;
http://www.marinco.com/product/50-amp-rv-detachable-power-conversion-kit
Some have made their own version of the same thing, but the kit has the convenience factor.
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westend
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I think I have a good solution for the power inlet, a generator inlet with the matching female end. It is all the CS6365 standard so will be replaceable, should that be necessary. It will also cost less than the Marinco or other proprietary interfaces. Thanks for the link to the Marinco, though. When I was looking for a dealer for that, locally, I discovered a supplier that is close to me and has all kinds of electrical goodies.
I've just about completed the rough-in DC side of the wiring, just need to connect the expansion conduit in the ceiling and plate off any through-wall wire runs.
The converter and battery wired for use:
The main DC runs:
The central junction box:
A device location:
As pictured, I took the time to separate the DC into three branches and, in my own primitive way, marked and coded them by color. I also ran a dedicated neutral/ground to each branch and device. I've had enough problems with trailer wiring to try a different approach than using the body or frame as an electrical path. A plastic conduit is installed next to the junction box and leads to the rear of the trailer ( I will connect that to the junction box when I have the fittings). This will allow me to add DC wiring, should it become necessary. The junction box will be covered by a plate on the ceiling or a light fixture, haven't made the decision on that, yet.
I hope I have the pictures sized to the Forum guidelines. I followed the moderators instructions on that.
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texasclarks
Fort Leavenworth, Kansas
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Great looking work. Keep the updates coming.
Steven & Stacie, plus 2 (9 & 5years old)
Beau (dog) and Sammie (cat)
2006 F150 5.4L, FX4, 3.73
2009 Rockwood 8313SS
Equal-i-zer 10K
Prodigy Brake Controller
Texas not just a State, but a State of mind!
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westend
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texasclarks wrote:Great looking work. Keep the updates coming.
Thanks, Steven, will do. I have two more AC runs and then that will be complete.
A question for those that have cable entrance, is there a special fitting that mates to the exterior or will any kind of coaxial fitting make the grade? I would assume that it needs to be insulated from the metal skin.
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