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 > 06 F350 6.0 accessories

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tdeal823

N.W. Ohio

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Joined: 04/12/2011

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Posted: 12/02/11 01:13pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

What has worked with my experience building pulling tractors. ( yes I'm from Ohio and live in the country )(You may have heard of Bowling Green, Ohio National Tractor Pulls) I have been building custom pulling tractor parts on the side for years now. I'm a tool maker and mostly machine drive train and chassis components.
The builder that I have worked with thinks differently. Now this is for tractor pulling and truck pulling. We have used this concept to tune many Duramax and Powerstrokes That live 20-50% of their life with some sort of trailer behind it.

Now the OP has a 6.0 powerstroke. Which most people think is the worst motor ever created. However the ones in our area that have been custom tuned and with the proper emissions deleted and yes head studs are a must. are all living and operating without any problems.
My concern in the heat that most aftermarket tuners create when the emissions are still in use. The turbo, EGR cooler, trans cooler, intercooler, and radiator all share the same air space and some share the same cooler.
So when one gets hotter than the other, it increases the temp of the other components.

Yes you are correct.(with newer trucks) and with my experiences I believe I am correct also.(with the older trucks)
But here is my concern.

The parameters to maintain the proper lean, cool and clean tune are much tighter. If something starts to read wrong the computer has to react quickly to make adjustments. Now what if a sensor malfunctions? Or lets use the 6.0L powerstroke. Since this is a HPOP mechanical system the sensors and computer only have limited adjustments available. Remember the 6.0L 7.3L and cummins 5.9 run on a different system then the duramax and 6.7L cummins.
With the more modern fuel delivery systems and VGT's the computers options are almost endless. This is where the lean and clean approach works best when you have good programming and all sensors are working proper.

So with the older trucks a "dirtier" tune works best in my experiences. This is because of lack of computer control.
The extra unburnt fuel wicks away heat as it flows through and out the exhaust.
A cleaner tune will result in higher MPG's with a higher EGT
a dirtier tune will result in slightly less MPG's with lower EGT's
This is why on the older trucks an adjustable tuner was such a great option. You could have one tune for daily driving and another for towing. You Would not have the engine load swings in your daily driving around town that you will find on a towing trip.

IF you want info on this tuning method lets go to a PM. I did not mean to hijack the thread.

To the OP I'm sorry for taking the thread a wrong direction.
I think your tuner will work just keep a close eye on your temps.
Tony

Maybe my edits helped. Or Pm I can explain it better.

* This post was edited 12/02/11 03:59pm by tdeal823 *


2008 Silverado 2500HD DMax LTZ cc sb 4x4 EFILive tuned, Blocked, Deleted, Rerouted and removed B&W Turnover ball and 5th Companion
02 F250 4x4 Auto Ex LWB SRW 7.3L B&W, RideRite, 5"exhaust. TW6 chip. 195k
2011 Sabre 32BHOK-6


Turtle n Peeps

California

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Joined: 06/23/2008

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Posted: 12/02/11 02:23pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Not quite sure what any of your post has to do with proving a diesel can run lean or runs hotter when lean?? More links and less words would work better for me.

Quote:

Yes you are correct. and with my experiences I believe I am correct also
What the what......what?

BTW, power tuners add more fuel to diesels, not take it away. Please show me a tuner that takes fuel away from a factory tune on a diesel to make lots of power. Just post a link up from the tuner stating such and I will believe you.

Bottom line:
More fuel (rich) makes heat with a diesel engine. More fuel = more heat and the higher your EGT will climb. That is why when you're EGT climbs too high you back out of the throttle (less fuel = less heat).

Less fuel (lean) = less heat with a diesel engine. That is why when you want more power you add more fuel with you're right foot (more heat = more power). On old engines you just play with the "HP screw" to give the engine more fuel. On new electro pumps you just write the tune to give the engine more fuel.

I can't make it anymore simple than that.


~ Too many freaks & not enough circuses ~


"Life is not tried ~ it is merely survived ~ if you're standing
outside the fire"


RAS43

Littleton,CO

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Joined: 03/23/2006

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Posted: 12/02/11 06:22pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

"Now back to our regularly scheduled program"! As for tonneau covers there are a large number of choices. I have the same vehicle as yours and have an Extang Tuff Tonno. It is a soft tonneau which I can roll up when pulling the 5'er and quickly roll back in place afterward. It has a unique hook type attaching system which has been trouble free for over 6 years. And it is reasonably priced around $250. JMO

FalconLover

Southern California (Whittier)

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Joined: 07/28/2005

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Posted: 12/02/11 06:27pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

As far as bed covers go we have the Jack Rabbit roll top cover on our truck and have for about 8 years. It's not 100% water proof but pretty good. It locks every foot or so you can bring it up to the hitch and lock it in that position to keep everything safe and out of sight.

John


The Rutters

2004 Ford F350 Crewcab Lariat FX4 (4x4) DRW
6.0 PSD, Torque Shift, Jack Rabbit roll top cover, Rosen widescreen DVD system

2004 Montana Mountaineer 33' fifth wheel (297RKS) w/double sofa option
1965 Ford Falcon Futura (Pro Street/Driver)


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