Scott_PDX
Portland oregon
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Joined: 10/22/2009
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My Hydro-Flame FA-7920 furnace makes quite a squeal when it first starts running, and the noise seems to be getting worse. I'm pretty sure the motor needs replacing or at least an attempt at re-lubing.
My problem though is I can't seem to get the furnace out. The camper is a 1991 Fleetwood Caribou, I've removed the two screws in the front of the flange and per the instructions that is the only mounting screws, and the furnace should slide out (Gas line and Electrical wires need to be dealt with). The heater moves around a bit but I can seem to pull it out (to the insided) of the camper - it's like there is another mounting screw in the rear I'm missing someplace.
I'm thinking it may have something to do with the exhaust - but I thought that was a "Slip-In" deal. Maybe there is a set-screw or something? Looking into the exhaust from the outside, the exhaust pipe looks a bit rusty on the inside. Maybe it needs a little "hammer persuation"? Any suggestions?
Thanks,
-= Scott
1991 Fleetwood Caribou 11', Atwood Remote Electric Jacks, Maxxair, Fast Guns, Alarm by Smith and Wesson!
2001 F-350, 7.3 PowerStroke, 4x4 SRW, Air Lift & Rancho 9000's
2007 North River Seahawk, 18.5', 115/T8 Yammies, Minnkota Terrova & fish slime
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AnEv942
CA
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Joined: 10/10/2003
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Slide inside? exhaust should be sealed but not screwed, might remove it from outside. Interferance from duct adapters, sounds like plumbing and or wiring stiil hooked up?
http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/operating/hflame8012.pdf
01 Ford 250 4X4 DRW Diesel, 01 Elkhorn 9U
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bobndot
NY
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Joined: 08/21/2007
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This may offer some help .
I have a model 8525 II Atwood RV furnace. I need to ...
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I have a model 8525 II Atwood RV furnace. I need to replace the blower motor. Do I have to remove the unit from the trailer to do this, if so how do I remove the unit? Can I repair without removing the unit?
Accepted Answer
HelloCustomer
Welcome to Just Answer.
Here is the answer to your question, if you are still interested.
You won't be any further ahead if you remove the entire furnace because the components are still inside a steel box. All the components and assemblies are accessible without removing the furnace, but you have to locate the correct screws and it helps to have a long magnetic screwdriver. Take your time and be gentle, it can be done, but there isn't much room to play with.
The motor is clamped inside a steel collar, that is attached to a steel vertical partition. There is only a single machine screw that clamps the collar together, over the motor. The motor has a shaft coming out of each end, in which two fan cages are attached. There are two wires connected to the motor, where it enters the collar. These are the 12v power supply and a ground wire at the collar. Look for these wires and you will see the collar screw.
To begin, make a rough sketch of the wiring, and disconnect the power.
To get the motor out, you need to lift up the black plastic shroud, which has the majority of the wiring attached to it. Most of the wires can remain connected at this point. First remove the printed circuit board assembly to make some room to work. This is on the left side, attached with a wing nut and it will slide out towards you with a bit of jiggling. There are four self tapping screws holding the shroud in place; after removing them gently lift the shroud towards you and upwards. You may have to disconnect a few spade connectors to make this possible. Be carefull, the rather delicate sail switch is attached to the back of the shroud. You can use a piece of string to hold the shroud out of the way.
You will need to loosen the small fan cage, on the gas valve side of the vertical partition, to pull the motor out. Use a long allen wrench to loosen the grub screw, attaching it to the shaft. If you encounter any rust on the shaft, preventing the fan cage from sliding off, use a small file to remove the rust and a bit of oil. Rotate the fan on the shaft and you should be able to work it loose.
You may find it easuer to remove the burner assembly and exhaust pipe to make more working room, but it is not necessary. If you want to do this, the exhaust pipe pulls straight out towards you, after you loosen a wing nut, but you will probably have to jiggle it, if has been in there long. The burner assembly is another matter, there are three self tapping screws and you will have to disconnect the propane fitting. It can be done but takes time and more jiggling.
Put it all back together, in the reverse order, with the new motor.
And you will be all set.
I hope this helps and please visit us again.
Read more: I have a model 8525 II Atwood RV furnace. I need to ... - JustAnswer http://www.justanswer.com/home-improvement/0wxa5-model-8525-ii-atwood-rv-furnace-need.html#ixzz1bBIMR6Mi
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Camp, Forrest, Camp!
Boise, ID
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Joined: 10/28/2002
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I'm going from memory here, but I believe that I had to remove the cover on the exhaust port as part of the install. I do remember there there was a fair amount of tension holding the furnace in place.
Once I had the furnace out, replacing the motor was very straightforward.
Important tip: Disconnect your battery before removing the furnace. I disconnected the wiring from my furnace and a loose wire touched the housing as I slid it out. I had to replace the circuit board to the tune of $200.
-2000 Chevy K3500 CC DRW. 7.4L, Auto, 1985 Lance 900, 1999 Bayliner Capri 1800LS Outboard
-Air Lift bags, Torklift tie-downs, Superhitch w/48", Rancho RS9000X, K&N FIPK, MagnaFlow exhaust.
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Photomike
Southern Alberta
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Joined: 04/26/2008
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You need to replace the motor, I am in the same place. If I hit the motor the squeal stops, then comes back at 2am and will not stop.
I also cannot get the furnace out, I removed all the screws and the screws holding the vent in and pulled from each side and nothing. Mine is a 1991 so I am wondering if the material used to seal it has dried solid and is acting like a glue?
2002 GMC 2500HD 4x4 4 Door
1992 Northern Lite 9'- 6" Camper
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Scott_PDX
Portland oregon
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Joined: 10/22/2009
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Thanks guys, I didn't try removing the outside vent yet. I guess I'll give that a try. I'm thinking that I may live with the squell for another weekend since I'm going crabbing, but next weekend I'll give that a try.
FWIW - This model can't be removed to the outside without removing a wall. Only the small vent (4"x2") is open to the outside.
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Camp, Forrest, Camp!
Boise, ID
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I'll take another peek at mine. I've had mine out several times so I know it can be done easily 'cuz I ain't so smurt.
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AnEv942
CA
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Joined: 10/10/2003
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Yes thats what I meant, removing the exhaust tube /box from outside. Least it seems thats what might be holding it in with the 'mastic' and might be easier to seperate that joint by removing (exhaust) from outside.
Mark
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Camp, Forrest, Camp!
Boise, ID
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I went out and took mine out in about 3.5 minutes. I removed the two screws inside and it felt like it was still secured. I went out and removed the exhaust tube and pulled a little harder and it popped right out. I don't think that the exhaust outlet was holding it in, but you will need to remove it to re-install the furnace due to alignment issues. Hope this helps.
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Photomike
Southern Alberta
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Update - decided that I would take the camper to a RV repair place. The guy did everything that I did, removed the two screws holding the outside vent, and then used a screwdriver to pop off the outside vent - or that was his plan. Nothing happened so I did not feel so bad. In he went and got a crowbar and started to pry the outside vent. It took him 5 minutes of hard prying to pop it out. It was rusted in place. The vent comes out with a round tube attached but it is separate from the rest of the rectangle part.
So we took out the furnace and removed the motor. Got the part number for the motor and called the suppliers only to find out that the motor is discontinued (it is from 1991 so I guess that is understandable). Was going to reassemble after cleaning the fan and the motor but decided to bite the bullet and order an entire new furnace. New fan was to be around $150/$200 plus install if the repair place did it - if they had a new one, then I was going to get a new vent ($50.00). Entire new furnace with new vent $750.00. Only thing that will not be new is the thermostat and I wanted a digital one so that is fine. I figured that for the difference in price it is worth it, also was told that the new one may put out more heat(will see about that), will be happy to get the same heat and no squealing.
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