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 > Removing Vinyl Sticker from Exterior

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BamaBronx

Prattville, AL

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Posted: 08/17/11 04:44pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Used 95 Class A Adventurer we have had for 6 years. It had one of those US maps where you put state stickers showing where you have been. This summer, the clear part (for all of the uncovered states turned an ugly brown... no longer clear. Is there an option to remove the whole sticker other than carefully with a razor scraper? I got a little off, but it is slow and tedious.

lzasitko

Regina, SK Canada

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Posted: 08/17/11 04:55pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Heat gun or even a hair dryer set on high should soften it up, use a plastic scraper not metal. Try and find a product called Goo Gone it is really good at getting rid of any sticky residue thats left over. Failing that you could cover it with peanut butter and let is sit a couple days then wash it off with lots of soap. We use peanut butter when other things fail, something in the peanut oil that does it. Sticky residue can also be cleaned up with gasoline though many don't recommend it.





AZLugz

Mesa AZ

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Posted: 08/17/11 05:02pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

WD40 and baby oil also help soften them up, if your wife uses Avon products, their Skin-so-soft lotion works great too


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FuelFunnel

Mossyrock, WA

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Posted: 08/17/11 05:13pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Those things get nasty looking after several years. I removed the one on my 1991 a few months ago. Not sure when the previous owner put it on. I though I was going to have to use heat also, but it actually came off fairly easy with carefull use of a "razor sharp" wood chisel. My problem is that it left some shadowing where there were empty states. I tried wet block sanding the entire area with 1000-grit paper, bleach, Barkeeper's Friend, etc, but it still shows in the right light. Not sure what's going to happen when I try-out the Red Max Pro application.

Kris

MountainAir05

New Mexico

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Posted: 08/17/11 05:21pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

3M also make a excellant wheel/disk that you use on a drill to remove them.

gbopp

The Keystone State

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Posted: 08/17/11 06:42pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

MountainAir05 wrote:

3M also make a excellant wheel/disk that you use on a drill to remove them.

I thought they were very abrasive, don't they also remove the paint and fiberglass?

Ductape Dave

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Posted: 08/17/11 07:33pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You could try easy-off oven cleaner, we had a full painted mural of the little mermaid when we bought ours and the oven cleaner did a great job. Let it soak in then used wet sponges, the fiberglass turned yellow then after the sun hit it for a few days it is now pure white and NO trace of any paint! Maybe try it on a small test spot but not if the decal is on paint.


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Gale Hawkins

Murray, KY

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Posted: 08/17/11 07:49pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

FuelFunnel wrote:

Those things get nasty looking after several years. I removed the one on my 1991 a few months ago. Not sure when the previous owner put it on. I though I was going to have to use heat also, but it actually came off fairly easy with carefull use of a "razor sharp" wood chisel. My problem is that it left some shadowing where there were empty states. I tried wet block sanding the entire area with 1000-grit paper, bleach, Barkeeper's Friend, etc, but it still shows in the right light. Not sure what's going to happen when I try-out the Red Max Pro application.

Kris


Kris that sounds like our story on our 1993. We finally to the the Red Max Pro 3 application yesterday and in the right light (like early this morning before the sun was up good) I can see the map outline but I expect most would never find it. The professional finish left by Red Max Pro makes the MH look so good people are not looking for shadows of old stickers. It hides nothing when looking straight on in not super bright lighting.

When leaving the house early this AM to go get the Koni FSD shocks installed I had not gone 200 feet until I caught a limb down the side. It sounded bad but when I got to the shop I could not see any marks so Red Max Pro must have gotten quite hard overnight.

FuelFunnel

Mossyrock, WA

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Posted: 08/17/11 10:46pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Gale Hawkins wrote:

FuelFunnel wrote:

Those things get nasty looking after several years. I removed the one on my 1991 a few months ago. Not sure when the previous owner put it on. I though I was going to have to use heat also, but it actually came off fairly easy with carefull use of a "razor sharp" wood chisel. My problem is that it left some shadowing where there were empty states. I tried wet block sanding the entire area with 1000-grit paper, bleach, Barkeeper's Friend, etc, but it still shows in the right light. Not sure what's going to happen when I try-out the Red Max Pro application.

Kris


Kris that sounds like our story on our 1993. We finally to the the Red Max Pro 3 application yesterday and in the right light (like early this morning before the sun was up good) I can see the map outline but I expect most would never find it. The professional finish left by Red Max Pro makes the MH look so good people are not looking for shadows of old stickers. It hides nothing when looking straight on in not super bright lighting.

When leaving the house early this AM to go get the Koni FSD shocks installed I had not gone 200 feet until I caught a limb down the side. It sounded bad but when I got to the shop I could not see any marks so Red Max Pro must have gotten quite hard overnight.


Thanks, Gale
I was a bit worried that the RMP might intensify the shadowing.
Not that it would have stopped me from trying it out anyway.
I have a few other blemishes to address before applying the RMP.

Kris

Gale Hawkins

Murray, KY

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Posted: 08/18/11 06:32am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Kris it is all in the prepping. Putting on the RMP is the most simple task requiring no force.

I wound up doing the TSP wash down by hand because using the brush lead me to missing spots that with a little effort would come off with the TSP wash down. I found a wooden free pop stick and a tooth brush was handle to keep in my pocket too. Wax build up in the corners and grooves would soften and come loose with some effort I found.

It seems a couple coats of Red Max Pro would seal well enought to protect the clean surface if you got short on time then you could rewash with just soap and after it dried put on as many coats as you wished.

You are doing well to go after ever blemish you can find because there will still be some that get coated.

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