klm
SIOUX FALLS, SD
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Joined: 05/26/2004
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There is a Winnebago dealership in DE that does the sealtec test - Parkview RV Center.(I think that is the name) I don't know where in VA you are, but they might be able to chase down that leak.
'02 KOUNTRY STAR DP
2012 HONDA FIT "PUMPKINMOBILE"
GILLIGAN- 1ST MATE CAT - 3 HR TOUR
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helgi
Rosthern SK Canada
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Joined: 12/01/2009
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I did not have a leak but the previous owner parked the unit under the tree's and the rubber roof was a horrible mess. The seams did not look all that good neither so I did an really good cleaning job on the roof and joints used everything under the sun but no thinners. A lot of bleach and hot water to get the sap etc off the membrane after that resealed the joints with ethernabond tape.And repainted the whole rubber roof with 5 gallons of rubber coating not paint, but rubber coating, which I obtained from polytech coatings in Ontario Canada, they also ship to the states, dicor paint might also be used but the difference is ,that when this is applied as to their specs it should last ten years and the roof in my opinion looks great,google it and see what you think especially if you find pinholes my experience as a painter is if you find some there are a hell of alot more. The nice thing about this coating system is it is not only for rubber roofs the have a coating for all kinds of surfaces and you are laying on a very good mill thickness. It sure worked for me, might do the same on your side.
Good luck,
helgi.
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Dolfan2
florida
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Joined: 05/07/2011
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The big leak culprit I found with TT's is the awning mounts, especially with edge-mounted types.
They are subject to a lot of movement which works and loosens the mounts. I would check these and find that where the mount was through a drain channel, any debris in the channel would cause water to collect and slowly leak in through the loosened mounts.
These were especially maddening because damage from the mount would cause the owner to think the damage site was the leak site. In fact the damage site was an effect of the leaking mount and not the leak site. They would endlessly patch the damaged area but still have a leak.
My suspicion is that driver side leaks are common because control lines are often routed through that area and it is a natural collection site for water - which could have entered from a point far removed.
As for pinholes if you have one you have dozens - I would put a membrane over the existing roof, and make a neat job of it, rather than a bunch of patches that resemble some kind of acne.
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Dolfan2
florida
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Joined: 05/07/2011
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A note about fiberglass.
While epoxy glass will stop water poly glass will not. I did gobs of tests where I sealed wood in poly glass and soaked them. The water always got into the wood, swelled it until the glass cracked, and then separated from the wood.
Poly glass actually absorbs water, and gets a kind of "acne", which is in fact water pocket "pimples" in the glass. Poly glass that has been stiffened with wood will fail in time, as the wood absorbs water through the glass and swells. Because of this effect you will find both cracks and pinholes in poly glass, and the age of the glass doesn't matter, only if it is in prolonged contact with water.
Both epoxy and poly glass have their strengths and weaknesses, but a good combo is poly glass protected by filled epoxy paint. The epoxy keeps water (but not moisture) out of the poly, and the poly provides a sturdy base for the epoxy.
This is an expensive fix, and not permanent because of the inherent weakness of poly.
Water can be in contact with poly if there is wet debris (leaves, dirt) or snow on it, and it slowly drinks this up when you think the poly is dry. It doesn't go through the poly so much as it becomes trapped in the poly through osmotic action. With straight glass you get "acne" that progresses to "boils", and with any embedded wood you gets cracks and splits if the wood is completely encased in the poly glass.
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