1cowboy

Oklahoma

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Joined: 11/07/2008

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Anyone use this product under coach to stop/prevent rust? Thanks.
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ron.dittmer

Northern Illinois

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Joined: 02/26/2007

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I am not familiar with that product.
I have used a product called POR15 on my 1996 Ford Ranger pickup truck frame and the underside of it's bed. If memory serves me right, you don't need to get the metal perfectly clean, but I did anyway given it was easy with the bed off the truck. I also put a top coat of Rustoleum paint. The truck has seen 3 salty Chicago winters and rust has not yet returned.
POR15 is really strang stuff. When I was brushing it on, a drip had run down an uncoated part of the frame. It's not a real thin paint-like product, yet it had defied gravity and spread sideways quite far. I thought...."What kind of stuff is this?" It has penetrating properties I never worked with before.
Even so, I advise to knock off any loose rust. You can't be too picky. I spent a lot of time banging rust off the Ranger's frame. What initially looked like solid metal, came off in thin sheets. It was easy to determine when to move on. Yes the frame is thinner, but it's all good metal and well protected. I just wouldn't install a trailer hitch or over-load the bed.
* This post was
edited 03/30/11 03:27pm by ron.dittmer *
2007 Phoenix Cruiser model 2350, with 2006 Jeep Liberty in-tow
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Ivylog

Blairsville, Ga. USA

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I highly recomend Phosphoric Acid for stopping rust as it's what's in all the rust stoppers. Do a Google Search and you can buy one gallon jugs at Home D in the paint dept.
This post is my opinion (free advice). It is not intended to influence anyone's judgment nor do I advocate anyone do what I propose.
04 Monaco Dynasty 42' quad slide
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Yaj

The Milky Way Galaxy (Hartford, WI)

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I use CorrosionX all the time, for everything! Great products! I found it years ago in the aviation industry. Really works great on electrical connections. Wifes car radio was crackley so I pushed open the tape deck door and filled the tape deck until it foamed back out, radio started working perfect almost right away, waited a few days and tried the tape deck and it works great too! (The stuff in the blue can, no warrenty or liablity from my part, no animals were hurt in this write up, not responsible for anything execpt myself, and I can't help it I'm a guy!
1996 HR Endeavor LE,Cummins 5.9 230hp, Allison 3060,
Front-Yamaha Enduro, Rear-Honda Helix Geeser Cruiser + 2 bikes,
22ft 1977 Cruiser in tow.
1 DW, 2 kids.
2 dogs, 2 cats.
I wasn't thinking this far ahead!
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mgirardo

Brunswick, GA

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ron.dittmer wrote: I have used a product called POR15 on my 1996 Ford Ranger pickup truck frame and the underside of it's bed. If memory serves me right, you don't need to get the metal perfectly clean, but I did anyway given it was easy with the bed off the truck.
If you mean by "perfectly clean" that you have to remove the rust before using it, you are correct, you DO NOT have to remove the rust before using POR15, but you do have to properly prep the surface before using POR15.
The only problem with POR15 is that it fades quickly when exposed to UV light, so a top coat is needed if using it on exposed surfaces.
-Michael
Michael Girardo :: michael@ecxc.com
2009 Jayco Greyhawk 31FS Class C Motorhome
2006 Rockwood Roo 233 Hybrid Travel Trailer
Four Green Feet
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quantex

Clovis

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I was made aware of the usual maitenance for the chassis protection. I have seen alot of products and did a lot of research and I chose Aerokroil. This is one of the best penetrating lubricants on the market. Aerokroil penetrates to 1 millionth inch spaces, dissolves rust, lubricates, cleans and prevents rust.
Great product and highly recommend it.
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ron.dittmer

Northern Illinois

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mgirardo wrote: ron.dittmer wrote: I have used a product called POR15 on my 1996 Ford Ranger pickup truck frame and the underside of it's bed. If memory serves me right, you don't need to get the metal perfectly clean, but I did anyway given it was easy with the bed off the truck.
If you mean by "perfectly clean" that you have to remove the rust before using it, you are correct, you DO NOT have to remove the rust before using POR15, but you do have to properly prep the surface before using POR15.
The only problem with POR15 is that it fades quickly when exposed to UV light, so a top coat is needed if using it on exposed surfaces.
-Michael I heard the black color of POR15 fades to a milky color in direct sun light, but wondered if my top coat of black paint was required given it's under the vehicle. But with all the work involved, I wasn't going to get lazy at the end.
You are right, they sell a prep spray, basically Muratic Acid, to etch the rust off. I rolled the chassis out on the drive, ran the hose to protect my cement drive, sprayed the acid, and watched the left-over surface rust melt away before my eyes. It was really cool. Once done, a good rinse with water and fans blowing on it for a day did yield a much thinner rusty film on the metal than originally.
* This post was
edited 04/01/11 09:34am by ron.dittmer *
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