Coast Resorts Open Roads Forum: Tech Issues: Battery Equalization


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pianotuna

Regina, SK, Canada

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Posted: 09/09/10 09:59am

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Hi profdant139,

See my earlier post--equalize means at least 3 different things.

Regards, Don
Kustom Koach Class C 28'5" 256 watts solar, 875 amp hours in two battery banks 12 volt batteries 2500 watt inverter.

88lover

Florida

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Posted: 09/09/10 11:34am

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ok I am starting to learn. Now, Trojan says one should equalize when the cells get more than .05 out of balance. Autozone and Napa said they never heard of a Digital hydrometer so I am back to square one

As far as chargers go, I can't seem to find one that you can crank up to 15.5V and have a digital read out but some like the Vector do have a "Equalize" setting.
It appears that my onboard converter with the "Charge Wizard" will max out at 14.4 so I guess that is to protect my Norcold refrigerator and other circuits.

I have figured out my biggest drain of juice at bedtime is using the inverter to power the DirectTV and the TV which is also running on 110v. I guess that I should run the generator (noisey as it is) whenever I am running the TV. Also the refrigerator should be switched to LPG.

can any one point me to a digital hydrometer without breaking the bank?

KendallP

Grants Pass, OR

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Posted: 09/09/10 11:36am

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PUCampin wrote:

I purchased a Vector (now owned by Black and Decker) vec1097A smart charger. It has a 2/10/30A charge options, equalization function, desulphate function, and lots of bells and whistles. With shipping it was $85 from boatandrvaccessories.com, there are several other models with equalize and desulphate. My WFCO 3 stage converter charges and floats my batteries ok, but does not have the capabilities of the vector. So every once in a while I will disconnect the batteries from the TT, and run the equalize and desulphate using the vector. I am now finishing my 5th year with a pair of Interstate SRM-24 batteries, and I can go for a 4day weekend without recharging as long as I am somewhat conservative. Usage includes water pump, stove vent fan, vent fantastic fan,LED lighting, a fair amount of usage of the 22" LED baclit TV, charging cellphones.

Before I bought the vector, the batteries were loosing capacity. The WFCO just can't give them everthing they needed. The first trip out after getting the vector and doing the desulphate and equalize cycle, the capacity was back. It was worth the investment to me.

Daniel

Sweet! Great report!

Cheers,
Kendall

1986 Winnebago Chieftain 22RC
Our Camper (with no payments)

BFL13

Victoria, BC

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Posted: 09/09/10 11:49am

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It is the voltmeter that is digital.

Just try your old "manual" charger on the battery while the battery is not connected to the RV and watch (spot check) the voltage at the battery posts to see how high it goes. After some time (hours/days) mine goes to 16plus volts at about 2amps. Yours probably will too unless it is "automatic" which will shut off at 14plus instead of keep letting the voltage rise. Try it out.

To desulfate, I just leave it at 16plus volts and watch the SG on the hydrometer. When SG stops rising, you are there. Could take a day or two if charger is only doing 2amps at that 16v.

Special powerful chargers can do more amps at 16v and really get it done in say eight hours, but you need to watch the battery temperature doesn't get too high and expect lots of spitting of acid out of the cells onto everything nearby--like your shirt and pants

2003 Chev 2500HD ExtCab, LB, 2WD, 6.0/4.10 Gas
2003 Komfort 26FS 5er (28.5 Ft-RK-10,000lb GVWR)

KendallP

Grants Pass, OR

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Posted: 09/09/10 11:51am

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88lover wrote:

As far as chargers go, I can't seem to find one that you can crank up to 15.5V and have a digital read out but some like the Vector do have a "Equalize" setting.

The appropriate Vector/B&Ds do have the equalize mode and they do just that... depending on temperature. My B&D 1095 did 15.7V at < 4A and decsending over 3 hours on a single group 27.

I think if you let your batteries get too sulfated, you might need higher voltage than this per BFL13.

The pulsating "desulfating" mode of the Vector/B&Ds is also believe to do a lot of good. Those with heavy sulfation will generally do 3 - 24 hour cycles in a row. Each cycle must be started manually.

Otherwise... the little, cheap Batteryminders appear to also have a great delsulfating reputation, but just no equalize mode... which appears to come in handy when you really give your batteries a workout like BFL does.

But I've read stories of guys rescuing golf cart batteries from the club dumpster and reviving them purely with the low powered, pulse desulf mode of the Batteryminder. I would ASSume that the Vector B&Ds could also do this, but Batteryminder CLAIMS that their pulse method is the best.

As I recall... I was thinking that BFL had tried his Vector/B&D desulf mode a few times, but was only able to get results from a hard equalize mode with a manual charger. But perhaps the Batteryminder could have done it, but may have taken more time.

Reddog1

El Dorado, CA

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Posted: 09/09/10 11:53am

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88lover wrote:

Also the refrigerator should be switched to LPG.

If you are running the refer on 12-volts, that is what is draining your battery big time. It is easier and cheaper to conserve AHs, than it is to create and store them. I can run my refer on 4.5-gallons of propane for about three weeks, sometimes longer.

Wayne

BFL13

Victoria, BC

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Posted: 09/09/10 12:02pm

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My Vector "recondition" (the 24hr pulse method) does seem to perk up the batteries. The Equalize mode may do some good but I have no before and after results that show that. YMMV. I only got real improvement in SG on my sulfated 27s once the battery voltage got to around 16.3 which takes a long time like a day to get there at 2 amps.

BFL13

Victoria, BC

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Posted: 09/09/10 12:10pm

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88lover wrote:

...

I have figured out my biggest drain of juice at bedtime is using the inverter to power the DirectTV and the TV which is also running on 110v. I guess that I should run the generator (noisey as it is) whenever I am running the TV. Also the refrigerator should be switched to LPG.....

The TV etc should be fine on inverter, but how is that inverter hooked up? eg, if you have "whole house" by plugging the shore power cable into the inverter, you must turn off the converter or it will drain the battery faster than it can charge it. Put the fridge and water heater on gas too.