Ductape
On the Road
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Joined: 11/15/2005
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So who thinks you NEED to pull a disc brake hub for inspection?
To inspect what, exactly? You can check bearing play, seal, the caliper and the pads on the vehicle.
TV: 2011 Ram 3500 6.7, 2010 Nissan Pathfinder 4.0, 2002 Jeep GC 4.7. Connected via Equal-i-zer to:
Surveyor SV-234, powered by twin Honda 2k.
Toys: Polaris Ranger 800, Tracker Grizzly 1548, Suzuki DR-Z400S, BMW R1200GSA
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SeniorGNC
Houston
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Joined: 10/17/2008
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I changed over to disk brakes. It was a DIY job.
I used 12" Kodiak integral hub/rotor, Dexter 1600 psi actuator, and stainless steel brake lines.
The mechanics are straight forward, but it was a lot of labor. I spent many hours building custom brackets, etc. for the brake lines, particularly on the axles.
The improvement in braking is outstanding. I will never have electric drums again on a heavy trailer. (Mine is ~10,500 lb fully loaded.)
Kevin, DW, 2 DDs, a dog & a cat
1996 F-350, 7.3, manual, exhaust brake
2003 KZ Sportsman 5th, 30' bunkhouse
Disc brake upgrade (DIY)
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Oldtymeflyr
Littleton, CO
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Joined: 04/18/2004
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On TT for the most part the drum brakes are trouble free and work pretty well. I have only had one problem in 35 years and it was a wiring issue to one brake. I have never had a bearing issue on a TT or a utility trailer. I seldom look at these bearings maybe once every 5 years or more.
I have had disk brakes on boat trailers and they have been very good and much better than drum brakes. Every year maybe twice a year, whether disk or drum the bearings get a lookie see. The disks are just much easier and cleaner to work with. The disk brakes also have much less water wear and tear.
On a TT disks would be nice, but to me it would be a waste of time and money to change to disk given my experience.
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srosa
Northern California
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Joined: 10/01/2008
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I recently performed this upgrade as a DIY project. It is an easy installation for someone with experience servicing brakes. Everything bolts right on and the hydraulics are easy to run. Bleeding the brakes could not have been simpler and is the only part of the job where two people are needed.
I purchased the Kodiak components and an actuator as a kit but found that I could have purchased the parts myself and saved quite a bit. I'll share step by step instructions and parts sources via PM if anyone is interested.
My rig is very heavy and the switch over to disks has been fantastic. The biggest change is brake feel. My drums were very powerful but would sometimes lock up during hard braking. Now the stopping power seems much higher and lockups are very rare. I travel mountain passes quite a bit and between this upgrade and my e-brake, there is never any stress going downhill. Having a good quality,
integrated controller also helps to take advantage of the added feel.
2007 Excel 33RKO Limited
2011 Ford F350 PSD CC 4X4 DRW LWB Lariat
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kydale
Louisville, KY
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Joined: 03/22/2006
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sorsa
Email info to me along with where you recommend purchasing. My biggest concern with the install is the bleeding. I have had trouble with that on some cars. Did you ever have to call the factory for assistance? Did you get a good response?
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cwit
Upstate New York
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Joined: 07/20/2008
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Could you send parts and info. list to witherbeel@frontiernet.net This is a mod I will do but if you send me information I can buy a little at a time. I thank you in advance.
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just me
Salt Lake City Utah USA
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Joined: 10/30/2003
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I would get as much info on this as possible, for pro and con. How ever there has been improvements made on the brake signal from the TV to the towed unit, there still is a lag of time for the brakes to activate. In my opinion every millisecond counts in stopping. Trailer Life has done articles on these new systems.
95 Dodge CC #5 TST plate Flame Red/Silver
not totaly stock
2007 fiver
Tag Ma-haul has been suggested for a name but now The Shoe box
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srosa
Northern California
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kydale wrote:sorsa
Email info to me along with where you recommend purchasing. My biggest concern with the install is the bleeding. I have had trouble with that on some cars. Did you ever have to call the factory for assistance? Did you get a good response?
The bleeding process is most critical but is very easy to do with an electric over hydraulic brake system. Follow a normal automotive brake bleeding procedure after the actuator is primed (see directions for actuator). Be sure to set your boost on your brake controller to max when bleeding the brakes. Readjust the boost once the system is operations.
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srosa
Northern California
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just me wrote:I would get as much info on this as possible, for pro and con. How ever there has been improvements made on the brake signal from the TV to the towed unit, there still is a lag of time for the brakes to activate. In my opinion every millisecond counts in stopping. Trailer Life has done articles on these new systems.
There is no perceptable lag time with my system. I attribute this to a quality brake controller. I strongly recommend upgrading to an integrated brake controller if you do not have one. I've found that devices that depend upon gravity (Prodigy in my case) to regulate braking level cause the delay to become noticable. I switched to a MaxBrake controller that senses and sends based upon brake line pressure and the delay became imperceptable.
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superdutyjayco
Central Ohio
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I made the switch on our former Jayco fiver. I bought the kit from MorRyde including new dexter 8k axles. Kit wasn't available to for the 7k dexter axles. I was a professional mechanic for 20 years. The job was pretty straight forwared except for the electric hydraulic controller. It burnt on my test run. MorRyde put me in touch with the alleged manufacturer who ahd me express it back to them. It ended up being another manufacturer's part. When I got the call I about died. Five days to vacation. The controllers were about $700 in 2004. The engineer on the phone gave me a run down. I was about to whip out my credit card and order it. He said they would send me one of their brand for free! Part and next day shipping. He must have thought I died on the phone when I was speechless for a few seconds. I had a little trouble with not being able to slow down the disc brakes coming on. Called the engineer again, and once again they sent me a capacitor (I think) overnight free. Sorrry-I misplaced the controller manufacturer's name. If were to do this again, I think buying from a reputable company, since as Dexter, MorRyde, Kodiak, etc. is the key.
As for worrying about bleeding the brakes, follow the controller instructions, and slow and easy is my suggestion. It takes patience bleeding brake systems whether new install or repair.
2006 Freightliner Sportchassis
2009 Sportsmen Sportster 40P
2004 Artic Fox 990
2001 Dodge 3500 Cummins
2003 Honda GoldWing
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