tractorboy30
Ontario
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RoyB wrote:Another good reason to have a battery installed is you can switch your fridge to DC while you are enroute to the camp site and it will keep everything in the fridge cold... My fridge takes a couple of hours to get cold when I first turn it on... Its ready to go at the camp site if I run it in DC mode while enroute.
I have a 3way fridge so I run it on the propane when I'm enroute. But yes the batt is good if you need it but I know from my big truck they use the batt up fast so I would try and not run it on that. Thanks for the advice on the oil furnace I will go out and look for one
Frank
Frank
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red31
Bryan
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The PU does not need a battery for the fridge to operate on 12v from the TV.
The TV needs to be wired correctly and running!
The brakes need a battery.
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tractorboy30
Ontario
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red31 wrote:The PU does not need a battery for the fridge to operate on 12v from the TV.
The TV needs to be wired correctly and running!
The brakes need a battery.
Hi I have hauled this unit and the brakes work just fine with out a batt as it runs off my truck brake control unit and I did forget about the fridge that would run off my tuck thanks for the reminder on that 
Frank
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mike4947
N. Syracuse, NY
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The battery isn't needed for normal operation of the brakes, but rather it is used during a break away.
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nuke1105
San Pedro
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I read the whole thread and had one question...
Someone above said that the furnace is what draws more power.....I'm buying a Honda eu2000i generator for my pup. Will this generator be enough to power my furnace all night? I have a Starcraft 2406.
Thanks!
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RoyB
King George, VA
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nuke1105 - The furnace will probably draw around 4AMPS to just run the blower fan. The heater part runs off propane and it will use up all your propane too haha... I would defiantely get a backup plan going with a MR BUDDY HEATER that runs off canister type propane cans. It will run about 7hrs on one can and is safe to run inside your trailer...
The generator will power up just about everything except the air conditioner but running the generator 24/7 is another problem.
I would try to run everything off the batteries and use an inverter 3-4 hours a day to run a couple of 120V items you might have like a TV or some extra 120V fans and lights etc... Then run your generator 4-5 hours a day to recharge your batteries back up. Most camp sites only allows you to run generator 2 hours in the morning and maybe three hours in the early evening (noise problem for neighbors I guess - but they all have generators too haha)
I plug the trailer shore power cable directly into the generator and let the on-board converter recharge my batteries. Be sure you have the three mode "SMART" charging system on your converter otherwise it take 10-12 hours of run time to get your batteries ready for the next day. I plan to add a couple of solar panels to give me at least 80W of trickle charge for the batteries. Im not sure how long a generator will run continuous but it probably consumed a gal an hour or somewhere like - seems like I saw a post on that recently..
We have done this a few times and momabear gets to watch HDTV every night and we can last 5 days pretty easy but we have to be able to run the generator a few hours everyday to make it work.
My Posts are IMHO based on my experiences - PM/EMAIL me
Roy and Carolyn
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JLTN_James
Colorado
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If a generator is burning a gallon of fuel an hour, you've got one heck of a large generator. My 2000W Honeywell runs 6 hours on one gallon of fuel, and that's at 9500' elevation (and it's just as quiet as a Yamaha or Honda).
2004 Toyota Tundra SR5 (V8, 4WD, TP, TRD)
2005 Fleetwod Allegance with axle flip
Honeywell 2000i Generator
DH, DW, DS, DD, Dog & Cat
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pianotuna
Regina, SK, Canada
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Hi James,
Non inverter generators are dependent on rotational speed for frequency. They use a bunch more fuel to do that unfortunately.
Regards, Don
Kustom Koach Class C 28'5" 256 watts solar, 875 amp hours in two battery banks 12 volt batteries 2500 watt inverter.
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PAThwacker
East Stroudsburg, PA
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We camped on a first night out back in April with 30 degree ambient temps plugged into the 30amp post.
We were out of propane by 1am Sunday. The heater cranked from 7pm Friday to 1am Sunday.
Propane depletion is a bigger concern. Alternate safe heating methods are needed dependent on which type of camping you are planning to do.
PUGZ, reflectix under the bed, and in the windows greatly improve the insulation factors of the pup.
* This post was
edited 09/09/10 12:38pm by PAThwacker *
2008 Starcraft Travelstar Sport 21RBH
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Me, DW, DD, Ddog
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bondebond
Searcy, AR
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PAThwacker, if you're plugged into shore power, 30amp, then get an electric heater to use as your primary heat source, and keep the furnace set lower to keep inside temps from dipping too far down.
I've camped with snow on the ground and PUP, with the above combination (before I got the Pop-up gizmos) and the electric heater did pretty well. The furnace only kicked on about once an hour overnight, for the 5-10 minutes it takes. A $20 1500 watt electric heater will pay for itself quickly in saved LP costs.
It's a different ballgame though, when you're off the grid.
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