phemens
Montreal, Canada
Senior Member
Joined: 09/18/2006
View Profile
 Offline
|
I'm in the process of redoing all the caulking on the roof, and have started to Eternabond the end caps of our Jayco 26L. I ordered enough tape to do all the roof joints, including the side seams.
What are the pros & cons of doing the side seams? The seam is pretty intricate, as it laps from the TPO roof over the side and into the gutter channel. I'm somewhat concerned that if I lay down tape there, it may not adhere as well due to the contours, and that is certainly one place where I'd have persistent moisture (due to the gutters). Has anyone done the seams and what has your result been? I plan to re-caulk the joints in any case, now the question is whether tape goes on afterwards. I've used a roller to compress the tape on the caps, what tool did you use to do the gutter joints?
Jayco 2008 26L behind a 2005 'Burb out of the Great White North, eh!
1 DW, 1 DD, 1 DS, 1 SD (shedding dog)
4 x T125's, 80W solar, Yamaha 2000IS
|
BarneyS
S.E. Lower Michigan
Moderator
Joined: 10/16/2000
View Profile
Good Sam RV Club Member
Offline
|
Member JBarca has done exactly what you are thinking about. He has made a very detailed explanation of his project, complete with pictures, here. It should help you out a lot. 
Barney
2004 Sunnybrook 30FKS TT
Hensley "Arrow" 1400# hitch
2002 Ford F250 Super Duty, 7.3L PSD
Visit our website here
|
phemens
Montreal, Canada
Senior Member
Joined: 09/18/2006
View Profile
Offline
|
BarneyS wrote:Member JBarca has done exactly what you are thinking about. He has made a very detailed explanation of his project, complete with pictures, here. It should help you out a lot.
Barney
Great link, thanks for the info!
|
JBarca
Dublin, Ohio, USA
Senior Member
Joined: 12/16/2004
View Profile
Good Sam RV Club Member
Offline
|
Hi Paul
I see Barney has linked you to my post on the Sunline forum . (Thanks Barney, I see I need to get that formatted and up over here in the DIY forum. It may help others)
Paul, this much I can tell you about the side seams, take up that vinyl inert off the gutter rail before you attempt to do this. You may see the same yuk I found behind it and for sure that was what prompted me to do the side seams. If you do not deal with the vinyl insert, you will trap that yuk in there if you have it plus that area gives the Eternabond more metal to stick too.
And for sure you have to clean and prep the surface right or else the result will not come out as expected. I dry cleaned first with a brass brush (like a tooth brush), then compressed air blow off, then used Eternaclean as a last step, wipe and air blow again. You can use Acetone too but the Eternaclean has some blasting action to it. And the roof must be cleaned/prepped as well.
Make sure the screws are 100% OK and tight. Put a nut driver on each one. I replaced all due to age as any rust is not a good thing once trapped in there. In the final stages of the side seams I used flat heads which I wish I would of on the entire system. Something for you to consider.
I have not seen anyone do the side seams before, they may be out there, just I did not find them but I had to do something so I did. Forum member LarryJ is also an Eternabond wizard and where I picked up a lot of good info from. He however has the drip rail inserts to sling the water off the roof. Can’t remember the name right now.
Good luck and hope this helps
John
John & Cindy
2005 Ford F350 Super Duty, 4x4; 6.8L V10 with 4.10
CC, SB, Lariat & FX4 package
21,000 GCWR, 11,000 GVWR
Ford Tow Command
1,700# Reese HP hitch & HP Dual Cam
2 1/2" Towbeast Receiver
2004 Sunline Solaris T310SR
(I wish we were camping!)
|
phemens
Montreal, Canada
Senior Member
Joined: 09/18/2006
View Profile
Offline
|
Thanks John for the great tips. I'll be doing the job this weekend, I'll let you know what I find!
|
|
|
Jack_Pine
Illinois/Wisconsin
Senior Member
Joined: 07/14/2009
View Profile
Good Sam RV Club Member
Offline
|
JBarca wrote:Hi Paul
I see Barney has linked you to my post on the Sunline forum . (Thanks Barney, I see I need to get that formatted and up over here in the DIY forum. It may help others)
Paul, this much I can tell you about the side seams, take up that vinyl inert off the gutter rail before you attempt to do this. You may see the same yuk I found behind it and for sure that was what prompted me to do the side seams. If you do not deal with the vinyl insert, you will trap that yuk in there if you have it plus that area gives the Eternabond more metal to stick too.
And for sure you have to clean and prep the surface right or else the result will not come out as expected. I dry cleaned first with a brass brush (like a tooth brush), then compressed air blow off, then used Eternaclean as a last step, wipe and air blow again. You can use Acetone too but the Eternaclean has some blasting action to it. And the roof must be cleaned/prepped as well.
Make sure the screws are 100% OK and tight. Put a nut driver on each one. I replaced all due to age as any rust is not a good thing once trapped in there. In the final stages of the side seams I used flat heads which I wish I would of on the entire system. Something for you to consider.
I have not seen anyone do the side seams before, they may be out there, just I did not find them but I had to do something so I did. Forum member LarryJ is also an Eternabond wizard and where I picked up a lot of good info from. He however has the drip rail inserts to sling the water off the roof. Can’t remember the name right now.
Good luck and hope this helps
John
That link is one of the best I have seen. Love the detailed photos.
thanks..............
2004 F350 CC PSD 4*4
Keystone Hornet 2009 31RLDS
2001 Starcraft PU
Cabin in West Central Wisconsin
 (WinCE).JPG)
|
phemens
Montreal, Canada
Senior Member
Joined: 09/18/2006
View Profile
Offline
|
Well, I just pulled the vinyl trim off the side seams as was recommended, and lo and behold, it is largely clean, with the exception of 3 screws near the front cap on the driver's side. I pulled the screws, and oof, surface rust only. I dodged a bullet there! I'll be taping it up tomorrow, looks like I now have much better surface for tape adhesion.
|
mister_d
Southeast, MI - hardly qualified to be a
Senior Member
Joined: 09/17/2006
View Profile
|
phemens wrote:BarneyS wrote:Member JBarca has done exactly what you are thinking about. He has made a very detailed explanation of his project, complete with pictures, here. It should help you out a lot.
Barney Great link, thanks for the info!
x2 -- I've bookmarked this awesome resource!
2011 F150 4x4 Ecoboost 6.5 SCREW 3.73 Max Tow
2011 Lacrosse 296BHS video tour
Me '77
DW '78
DD '04
DS '07
Maximus (slobbering camping buddy)
|
BarneyS
S.E. Lower Michigan
Moderator
Joined: 10/16/2000
View Profile
Good Sam RV Club Member
Offline
|
JBarca wrote:
...I see Barney has linked you to my post on the Sunline forum . (Thanks Barney, I see I need to get that formatted and up over here in the DIY forum. It may help others)...
John
Please do John!! Thanks!
Barney
|
EMD360
Tempe, AZ
Senior Member
Joined: 01/18/2010
View Profile
Good Sam RV Club Member
|
I used eternabond on the rear side seams after repairing some water damage. I removed the vinyl inset and the metal trim. I used two pieces of 2" tape, one offset from the corner but creased over the edge, and the other to cover the shorter edge of tape. I thought that was easier than trying to get a wider piece of tape to lay flat on the corner. I replaced the trim with stainless steel screws and cleaned and reused the vinyl inset.
One thing about the eternabond, it has picked up the desert dust and it does not come clean with just a hose and sponge. The tape that shows is brown and I'm not sure if I want to try to get it white again. So although it is preventing leaks, it is not as attractive as the original finish work.
We're hooked!
2003 Itasca Spirit 22e
|
|
|
