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Open Roads Forum  >  Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)

 > Replacing/Repairing the Rubber Roof

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booty51

houston

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Posted: 09/02/10 11:49pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Just for cost purposes a friend at work is having his keystone fw reglued where air is getting under his rubber roof and causing a giant air bubble while driving down the road. To the tune of $3200.00 whole roof repacement was double that.

Booty

gtjecig

USA

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Posted: 09/03/10 10:50am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Black Jack Roof at Lowes ... I used this from Lowes cost me less than 100.00 to do a 7x32 roof... the best

Note: Moderator edit to make a clickable link.

* This post was edited 09/03/10 01:39pm by an administrator/moderator *

crawford

Dandridge Tenn.

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Posted: 09/03/10 09:20pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Black jack reviews are poor at best and it black can't imagine heat in summer and how hard AC needs to work





LLeopold

Camarillo, CA USA

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Posted: 09/28/10 04:13pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

OK, Folks, after a few weeks of going back and forth, I decided to do the job myself; so two weeks ago, I pulled the front cap off the FW to see how much damage was done to the insides. This past weekend with the nice warm (well, hot!) Southern California weather, I started tackling the job.

Remember that this may have started a number of years ago since the original rubber roof did not cover the front corner (over my side of the bedroom) and water did get inside, at least this past winter.

This first few pictures clearly show that some water damage did take place:










So, I removed the dry and wet-rotted wood:



and replaced the sections with new wood, some Liquid Nails and external grade screws. The luan plywood that formed the inside wall was more discolored than damaged, but just to be sure, I backed it with an additional luan plywood to give it more structural integrity. I joined the ends of the 1x2s, 2x2s, 2x4s with both liquid nails, staples, and in the case of the rightmost stud, external screws (the under-structure on the side was sound, so I had something to securely drive the screws into).





I will be following up with mending plates for joining the segments:


While not pictured, I cut out the section of the roof particle board that had been damaged (about 4"x14") and glued down a 2x2x15" under the existing roof section to secure the new section to the existing sections. I'll provide a picture of the patched section. I intend to follow up with the mesh that is used for the roof joints prior to laying down the new runner roof section.

And once that is done, I can put new insulation in, secure the front cap, and proceed with the rubber roof repair itself.

So.... We're on our way. As I continue, I'll post pictures of the progress.

* This post was edited 09/28/10 04:19pm by LLeopold *


Lou Leopold
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2000 25' Mallard M-23 5M 5th Wheel
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And I continue to tent camp!


wkswenson

USA - MA

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Posted: 10/01/10 03:53pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We have a 33' travel trailer that the roof was damaged during a hail storm and subsequent rain. Required the replacement of rubber, underlayment, 2 vents, AC shrould, and 2 interior ceiling panels. This was done by a local service company and came in just around $10K.

The underlay was luan plywood.


Walter Swenson

2002 F350 - 7.3L Turbo Diesel - Crew Cab - DRW
2002 Citation 33-A


canadiangypsy

ontario

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Posted: 10/06/10 01:23pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

that looks like a big job......it'll be interesting to see how it turns out..keep taking pics of your progress it'll help us out because i'll be doing the same thing on our MH soon

cheers!!!!

* This post was edited 10/06/10 01:43pm by canadiangypsy *

LLeopold

Camarillo, CA USA

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Posted: 10/11/10 07:41pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

It's been a couple of more weeks since my last post giving progress, but progress has been made.

I installed the mending plates and new insulation:


as well as a 4"x14" plywood "patch" after cutting out the rotted particle board (I "liquid nailed" a 1x2 piece of pine to provide under-support for the old particle board and the plywood "patch":


you can also see that I put a 2x4 as additional backing support where the cap meets the roof. There was an dead air pocket in this area; not even any insulation. The white is latex caulk to seal any gaps between the exterior and interior which will provide additional water-proofing.

This gives you an idea of the roof itself when it's time to put the new rubber roof section on - it'll be a 4' by 9.5' section when squared off with no vent or other holes to deal with:




By now, after looking at a number of web sites and consulting with some professionals in the area, I'm convinced that this can be done without having to replace the entire rubber roof so long as I finish it with applying the liquid EPDM that I talked about initially. I found a web site that has all the supplies at a reasonable cost and I'll be ordering those materials this week.

In the meantime, however, after installing the insulation, I then put a vapor barrier (20 mil. plastic sheeting that I had left over from my stick house reroofing a couple of years ago. There was no vapor barrier underneath originally and I thought that this would also go a long way to added insulation without adding any real weight. You can also see the 3/16" fiberboard that I installed over the vapor barrier. The old fiberboard was so bad that my wife and I scraped it off the fiberglass cap:


And the end result which included 2" strips at the top that contoured with the rounded top. I tried to bend the fiberboard, but it broke even when I wet it, so I noted that there were strips of fiberboard that was originally attached, so I did the same as the factory.


Yes, that is cloth-backed duct tape that is sealing the seams - one of the actual real uses that duct tape is used for.


So, now we need to apply contact cement to the fiberglass and the fiberboard and the cap can be reinstalled. I picked up the RV tape from my local RV supply store for backing the metal mouldings and that should all be done next weekend; then I can proceed with repairing the rubber roof.

I've identified the web site that I'll be ordering from as they appear to have reasonable prices and shipping for what I need. I tried to work with my local RV stores, but they'll only sell the EPDM rubber roof as a whole replacement (i.e. not by the foot), so I may as well order everything from the web. My next post will be the list and cost of everything.

But to date, the cost of this repair has been less than $100, since I had a number of things already (the scrap plywood, the 1x2s and 2x4s, caulk, plastic vapor barrier. The only items I had to purchase was the fiberboard, mending plates, Liquid Nails, luan plywood, staples (I needed to get those anyway), and insulation.

LAdams

Northern Illinois

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Posted: 10/11/10 10:23pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Look'in good Lou - almost there

Les


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LLeopold

Camarillo, CA USA

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Posted: 10/15/10 03:53pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I ordered the roofing material on Tuesday and here's the list, the sources I ordered from, and the cost breakdown:

From Best Materials:
  • EPDM/TPO multipurpose primer (1-QT)$12.40
  • EPDM LC-60 solvent-based bonding adhesive (1G)25.65
  • ETERNACLEAN spray roofing cleaner, 14OZ6.20
  • WHITE EPDM roofing membrane, 60 MIL,
    10 feet wide x 4 feet @ $12.65 per foot50.60
  • M-1 sealant/adhesive, white, 10.1 OZ TUBE (1)5.95
  • WHITE EPDM coverstrip tape (EternaSeam)
    6 inches wide x 22 feet @ $2.95 per foot64.90

  • Merchandise Total:$165.70
  • Shipping (UPS Ground):25.55
  • Handling Total:2.00
  • Total:$193.25

From EPDM Coatings:
  • 5 Gallon Pail of Liquid EPDM with catalyst:$359.50
  • Handling (Free Shipping - UPS Ground):7.50
  • Total:$367.00

Add in the $83.25 from previously purchased materials including the contact cement for reinstalling the fiberglass cap front and EternaBond for sealing the two rubber sections together and the RV rubber tape to backfill and seal the metal moulding to the cap and roof.

Grand Total:$560.25

Plus my time (about 6 hours per day for 6 days over two months so far - Saturdays and Sundays). I estimate 2 more weekends over the next few weeks to complete the job (I have plans this and next weekend), so I'm looking to complete the work by early to mid-November and will continue to take pictures of the progress and results.

* This post was edited 10/15/10 04:31pm by LLeopold *

doughere

Mooresville NC

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Posted: 10/16/10 03:24pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Great looking job.

Doug

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