LLeopold
Camarillo, CA USA
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Okay. I'm usually one with answers and recommendations, but here's a chance for you to help out.
I'll start off with that I consider myself to be an avid DIY and like to do various home/RV improvement projects. That said, there are some things that I would not attempt. For example, I perform all routine maintenance on my pickup and fifth-wheel, (oil changes, bearing repacking, brake service, etc., but while I will flush and refill transmission fluid, I will not attempt to replace the transmission itself). I've installed my whole house soft water and filter system. I've built a patio cover on my home and done numerous interior upgrades in both the house and in the fifth-wheel.
So, last spring after the winter rains in So. Cal. I noticed some water on my night table inside my fifth wheel. After some investigation, I found that the sealant between the front cap and the rubber roof had dried out. The FW is 10.5 years old and has the original EPDM roof. I removed the old sealant and found that there was a gap in the roof not completely covering the corner and the manufacturer had applied a great deal of sealant in that area and it had dried out; hence the leak.
While examining the area, I noticed that the plywood (well, actually particle board) under-roof had some very slight water damage, but it looked like it would maintain integrity when the moulding was screwed back down over the rubber roof/patch and sealant applied.
So, I purchased a rubber roof repair kit and repaired the area and resealed the entire leading edge of the cap/roof. Looked good, I sprayed water onto the roof from a hose after everything dried and did not detect any leaks after that.
We recently took a 3700 mile trip through six Western states, and there was rain along the way. Again, no leaks. I felt really good about the repair.
On the second to last day of our trip; on the way back home, I noticed that the moulding had lifted up. Apparently air had somehow gotten through the sealant and pried up the molding holding the roof down. There were some very strong winds in Wyoming as well as our speed when traveling (70-80 mph in areas of Montana and Wyoming), so I can only imagine.
I checked and everything looked ok, but just to be sure, I added a couple of self-tapping screws and covered them with duct tape until I could add sealant.
On the last day, as we stopped for refueling (about 75 miles from home), I noticed a large flap of rubber roof (about a third of the overall length of the roof) hanging over the side of the FW. It had torn and come lose - the moulding was still in place, but air had come under the roof and eventually tore the roof. I climbed up and cut the hanging section off, then put some Gorilla tape along the leading edge of the rubber roof. No damage to the under-roof, other than what I already mentioned.
We got home safely and now have a large tarp covering the area of the underroof that is exposed.
So, the question is, given my level of experience, do I attempt to replace the rubber roof myself (well, with some family members or friends), or have it done professionally. Doing the research, it doesn't look like rocket science, but it is definitely a more than one person job and looks like it requires several days to get it done right (even more than a weekend).
I'm looking for someone who's done this to get a feeling of the level of difficulty in doing it.
Where I live does not get a lot of rain until winter, but there is a relatively constant sea breeze and I would be working outside so there is the potential for foreign material to float down onto the work area. From looking at various web sites on the procedure, it looks like it's recommended that this be done inside a large bay garage or barn which I do not have access.
Also there is the expense /vs./ my time.
I am tempted to try it if nothing else, for the experience and sense of accomplishment, but at the same time, I'd really like to have it done right and given the expense (looks to be about $550 for materials, and perhaps at least that amount in labor) that is also a factor.
So, for you DIY's out there, what would you do?
* This post was
edited 11/02/10 11:59pm by LLeopold *
Lou Leopold
2001 Dodge Ram 2500 Diesel Quad, SWB, 3.55:1, Rhino Lining
2000 25' Mallard M-23 5M 5th Wheel
Husky 15K w/EZ slider
Wen PowerPro 3500 Generator in a sound box
And I continue to tent camp!
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jim87vette
Arizona
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Did you see this write up yet?Good information.Wish I could give you more help but have not done this repair yet?Good luck on whatever you decide.Also what is the cost for someone else to do verses you doing it yourself?Click
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LLeopold
Camarillo, CA USA
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Yeah. I did see that yesterday as part of my research. Note that they're doing it inside, which is one of my "challenges" (though So. Cal. weather is not that bad); and no, the temperatures are actually quite mild, even for mid-summer (between 60 and 90 degrees with around 20-40% relative humidity).
I did find a possible alternative shortly after my post in YouTube, in terms of the Eternabond product (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZYwxEX3SBK4) where it appears that they replaced only that portion of the rubber roof that needed replacement, then Eternabond the seams between the new and old roof.
I'm now thinking about doing the following:
1) Fix the underroof area where it needs to be fixed (replace the old particleboard that had water damage from years of slow exposure with "real" wood as recommended),
2) Thoroughly clean the remaining old rubber roof,
3) Obtain and install only enough EPDM roofing material and adhesive to replace that part of the roof that is now missing (since the area in question has no vents nor A/C openings, it'd be pretty straight-forward),
4) Obtain a 6"x9.5' roll (or whatever length is available) of Eternabond tape to seal the seam between the old and new rubber roof,
5) Obtain lap sealant and apply it over the Eternabond tape as an added measure of sealing and to reseal the moulding along the side edges and where the rubber roof meets the front cap (screwed down and sealed as before),
6) And perhaps, obtain and apply EPDM roof treatment to the entire roof (something like http://www.epdmcoatings.com/rv_roof_repair.html.
I'm thinking if I do these steps, I'd get about another 3-5 years from the existing roof minimum, since I've maintained the roof by cleaning twice a year anyway and would continue to do so.
If I do decide to do it (more like needing to convince my wife that I can and should do it), I'll take pictures and post them showing the steps taken.
Thoughts?
* This post was
edited 07/30/10 02:36pm by LLeopold *
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othertonka
Stockton, CA
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Have you looked into renting a space inside a warehouse somewhere? You probably need access to a forklift or some lift device to take the AC's down and put them back up. On another note most RV's use a Luan plywood for the roof base, does yours? Just a couple of thoughts. I have never done any roof replacment.
Othertonka
2004 Southwind 32VS 8.1 Workhorse chassis
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LLeopold
Camarillo, CA USA
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I'll be doing an estimate of costs to present to the CFO (my wife) today, which will include renting space in a service bay. She already stated that if I plan to do this myself to also rent scaffolding to work from both sides rather than walk around on the roof (there's a little history about me falling off the roof of my stick house a couple of years ago during a re-shingling project and breaking an ankle).
As to the under-roofing, it's definitely particle board rather than luan or other plywood, so I would take hotspark's advice and, after replacing damaged wood, would also treat the remaining under-roofing with an additional sealant (I'm also that kind of DIY in that I try to do it right the first time and do a quality job).
I'm also planning to check with the guy who I do trust with my truck and FW to get an estimate from him on both replacing the roof entirely and what I'm thinking above; and keep folks posted on what I find out.
Thank you for providing suggestions to this point.
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hotsparks
palouse falls, wa.
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I would say try and do it yourself. It is not hard to do, just a lot of elbow grease and back pain. I hope it is not too hot where you are. You will save a ton of money by doing it yourself. I think the whole problem started from the factory by them using particle board. That stuff is nothing but junk and should not be used for anything but firewood. It has no holding power for screws. Maybe a little when it is new, but as soon as it gets wet it is as strong as wet toilet paper. They only use it because it is the cheapest thing they can find. If you have it open and can see the particle board try to seal it with something. Epoxy resin would be best but is expensive. Polyester resin(surfboard resin) would be my next choice. At least try to paint it or something. And use some fatter screws to hold it together. I see the main problem with most rigs is the factory make them as they are "use once and throw away". I build custom boats for a living and it makes me cringe at the garbage that the motor home and trailer industry puts out to the public. If they were boats they would not pass a coast guard inspection and I would hesitate to go out on the water with anything that they make. Quality is more then skin deep.
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jim87vette
Arizona
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I would be curious to see pictures now to maybe better asses the situation?But the more I think about it with the age of the unit I would want to replace the entire roof.You still have to bond at some point with the old and thats always going to be a weak spot,at least in my mind?Just wanted to give you what my thoughts were.Yes $$ is always a factor.
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calvinator
Cleveland, Ohio
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I had a 3'x 4' section of my roof that had tree damage. The wood underneath was a little wavy too.
I chose not to rip it all off, just patch it. My MH is nice, but is old, and a new roof didn't make sense.
I cleaned the area up, removed all old sealants, then used the liquid roof product over that area. I used lap sealant over some of the suspect areas too.
Been on two years and still looks real good. That liquid roof is expensive, but at the end of the day it is brush on EDPM. Simple for the DIY'r to work with.
1992 Seven Seas by Cobra
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Mongo68
CA
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I helped my brother in law do the roll on stuff... Not too bad. He was ok with the results- it was over the original 10yr old rubber roof. What he was thinking of was to pull the old rubber roof off and do it all over, but ran out of time and had to do the roll on...
I was thinking if I had to do it to mine, I would tear off the old stuff and staple and glue down a new layer of luan over the particle junk. Fill the staples with whatever the appropriate filler is. glue down a new rubber roof- possibly going thicker than the RV stuff with commercial roofing. I dont think there is really a valid concern doing it outside- the factory didnt. I see junk an even a couple screws under mine and others Ive seen. I would just do half at a time.
And scaffolding for safety- not a bad idea if you can get some. We used large containers used when picking avocados we borrowed from the farms in his area. Put them back for the harvest on monday...
2004 F350 4x4 Crew Cab PSD
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crawford
Dandridge Tenn.
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I rolled on Liquid Rubber roof looks like new and doesn't leak it's put on thick it should last at lest 8 years
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