Rick From Sequim
Sequim, WA
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Joined: 08/19/2004
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Polarity in house current can matter a shocking amount as older devices that used the metal frame as ground. Turning the plug upside down caused the object itself (metal fry pan, etc., ) to be HOT. Thus the third prong was born, and then the wider blade. MANY, MANY, MANY trailer problems are caused by bad or improper grounds. I'm going to do it right. I even check the RV power pole before hooking up for open neutral or ground or reversed polarity. I'm 68 now, and do everything I can to stay healthy for a few more years!
Just noted a story about an eleven year old boy who was ELECTROCTED touching his RV door because it was HOT!!! I rest my case.
Rick 
& wife Loie & Kodi Dog (blk male std poodle)
2011 GMC Sierra & 2005 25' Bigfoot RQ
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Flamebuster
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Rick From Sequim wrote:Polarity in house current can matter a shocking amount as older devices that used the metal frame as ground. Turning the plug upside down caused the object itself (metal fry pan, etc., ) to be HOT. Thus the third prong was born, and then the wider blade. MANY, MANY, MANY trailer problems are caused by bad or improper grounds. I'm going to do it right. I even check the RV power pole before hooking up for open neutral or ground or reversed polarity. I'm 68 now, and do everything I can to stay healthy for a few more years!
Just noted a story about an eleven year old boy who was ELECTROCTED touching his RV door because it was HOT!!! I rest my case. x-2. Just because the light comes on does not mean it is safe. Fires start buy improper wiring. Most hot side switches are brass or copper and the neutral side is steel. And a LED's will not work unless wired correctly..JMHO.Doug.
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tsetsaf
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Flamebuster wrote:Rick From Sequim wrote:Polarity in house current can matter a shocking amount as older devices that used the metal frame as ground. Turning the plug upside down caused the object itself (metal fry pan, etc., ) to be HOT. Thus the third prong was born, and then the wider blade. MANY, MANY, MANY trailer problems are caused by bad or improper grounds. I'm going to do it right. I even check the RV power pole before hooking up for open neutral or ground or reversed polarity. I'm 68 now, and do everything I can to stay healthy for a few more years!
Just noted a story about an eleven year old boy who was ELECTROCTED touching his RV door because it was HOT!!! I rest my case. x-2. Just because the light comes on does not mean it is safe. Fires start buy improper wiring. Most hot side switches are brass or copper and the neutral side is steel. And a LED's will not work unless wired correctly..JMHO.Doug.
Battery in voltmeter is dead so I matched solid to solid... bad idea! Tripped something and shutoff the Fridge and AC. I had to trip circuit breakers and reset to get everything back on. I have since unhooked the light until I replace the battery in the voltmeter. Will post with final results.
'06 Dodge 3500 5.9L CTD 6spd Manual SB SW - Pullrite SG - Ride Rite Airbags
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'06 Keystone Challenger 37' 4 Slide 5th
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Randy from Utah
Bountifful,UT USA
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Joined: 02/15/2004
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LED is a diode.
later..Randy
1996 Dodge Laramie 4X4.
2500 V10 R47H
1999 Fleetwood Terry 275J EX
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WellShooter2
West Texas
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Gunpilot77 wrote:Randy from Utah wrote:No need to observe polarity.
later..Randy
Are you sure? If the polarity is reversed won't the light bulb suck light in instead of radiating light? 
Actually the light sucks up dark. If you don't believe me just cut open a used flashlight battery.
2008 2500HD D/A
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John Bridge
Houston
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Now that you mention house, I do know something about that. It's not the lamp I'm thinking about. It's the idea of having a continuous neutral connection. You do not place a switch on the neutral side of a house circuit for example. All I said is that it's easy enough to observe the common conventions of wiring. Why not do it?
Semi-"retarred" in 2006. :-) 2008 Newmar Cypress 5th wheel, 2008 Dodge diesel dually to pull it with.
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tsetsaf
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tsetsaf wrote:Battery in voltmeter is dead so I matched solid to solid... bad idea! Tripped something and shutoff the Fridge and AC. I had to trip circuit breakers and reset to get everything back on. I have since unhooked the light until I replace the battery in the voltmeter. Will post with final results.
As these projects often go it has now become something altogether different. The light is working fine I have traced my real problem to the house batteries which are on their last leg. We moved yesterday and upon hooking up we turned on a few of the 12 volt lights in the rig... lo and behold the frig stopped working again. Batteries are not holding a high enough voltage which in turn is causing the fridge to switch off. The addition of the new light just amplified the issue last week.
New batteries are in store for today... yeah.
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