Low Timer
Columbia, MO
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Joined: 05/03/2007
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I have a Norcold 682 that no longer works on electric. On the eyebrow, the AC light is on, but the gas burner is on with no power to the heating element. I have confirmed I have AC power to the power supply board and the fuse is good. If I turn the gas valve off, the red 'X' as well as the AC light will be on when the flame has not been detected. Any ideas what the problem may be? I don't know if it's the power supply board or the eyebrow board. Hope someone has had the same experience.
Thanks
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Gale Hawkins
Murray, KY
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Joined: 07/22/2007
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Safely (it can be done) remove the two leads to the 120 electric heater element from the Norcold power supply and connect them to extension cord or something like that and plug it in to the fridge socket or any 120 volt source.
If it starts cooling you know it is a "control" issue (electronics). If not replace the $50 300 +/- watt heating element. Within few hours the freezer will be freezing and within 8 hours an empty fridge should be down into the 30's too.
Note this is the same as plugging in 3 100 watt light bulbs at the same time so it is NOT a huge load. I just had a short power cable from a motor I had tossed that I used. Just tape the connects so there is not chance of getting shocked by this hack connection.
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Low Timer
Columbia, MO
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Joined: 05/03/2007
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Thanks for the reply. I have verified the heating element working by connecting directly. I'm trying to decide if this is the power supply board causing the problem, eyebrow board, or something else.
Thanks again for tip!
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Gale Hawkins
Murray, KY
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Then maybe Doug or some of the others can help with those kinds of details. I will flow to see what I can learn too. 
It was our cooling unit that went so that was simple in a technical sense.
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MrWizard
Van Nuys, Ca
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Looking at the schematic for the our 682 , I suspect the power supply board possibly the k1 relay
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Rob's
Home
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Joined: 12/28/2009
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600 Series Power Supply Board
The Power Supply Board controls and activates all of the heat sources (AC, DC, and gas) of the refrigerator. It requires 12 volt power at all times for the refrigerator to work on any heat source. The Power Supply Board takes its settings from the eyebrow board and proceeds accordingly. It has the job of determining if AC is present, for example, and switching to gas if it's not. It provides voltage to the Ignition Control Module when gas is selected, and sends voltage directly to the 12 volt element and 120 volt element, when those heat sources are selected. The board shown below is for a 3 way model of the 600 series. The 2 way version would not use terminals J2 and J5, nor the 20 amp fuse.
One thing to note on this board is that the two blue wires leaving the board at the top complete a circuit through the On/Off Humidity switch. If you were to disconnect the two wires from their connectors on the wire harness going up the back of the refrigerator, and then connect the two wires together, you would by-pass the On/Off Humidity switch. If the switch was bad, this would allow the refrigerator to work. In fact, the single door models, like the 6053, don't have the On/Off Humidity switch and come from the factory with the two blue wires connected together.
Wiring Code for Circuit Board
1 Interior light (-)
2 DC heat element (-)
3 12 volt (-) to battery
4 12 volt (+) to battery
5 DC heat element (+)
6 AC heat element
7 AC heat element
8 AC in neutral
9 AC in hot
Troubleshooting the Power Supply Board is a matter of testing what should come in and go out of the board. See the table above for information on that. Also, the fuses on the board should be tested. To access the fuses, the cover has to come off the board. Unplug the refrigerator, then disconnect all the wires going to terminals on the board. Pull the cover, then reconnect the wires for testing if necessary. This is also a good time to inspect the board for burned spots.
Rob
RV Tech
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Low Timer
Columbia, MO
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The power supply board is powered and works as it should for the LP mode, auto mode will not switch to AC even though the eyebrow indicates AC is the mode being used. The power board shows some burning under the R4 resistor. I checked the voltages on both sides of the K4 resistor with one side being 120v the other being 1.4v. I was able to remove the cover on the K1 relay and close the contacts with a toothpick. The heating element now receives power. I can't find a good enough wiring diagram to troubleshoot the cause of the K1 relay not closeing and the gas valve/circuit being turned off. I think something has failed on the power supply board, but want to make sure it wasn't the eyebrow board before buying a new power supply board.
Thanks for helping.
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Gale Hawkins
Murray, KY
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Rob thanks for that detailed post.
Low Timer is sounds like you are getting close.
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Chris Bryant
DeLand, Florida, USA
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Joined: 03/26/2003
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A lot of those boards had relays that were open- you can pry the cover off. I've seen (several times) where bugs crawled in and kept the contacts from closing.
But- that resistor burns up quite often- anything above around 125 volts will make it over heat. It is a 22k ohm 2 watt resistor (colors are red red orange and gold). When I replace them, I usually wire in 4, in a parallel/series configuration.
-- Chris Bryant
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kneal44
EAST CENTRAL TEXAS
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the power relay sounds like the problem
that can be unsoldered and a new on put i place. go to an electronics supply house and see if you can get same relay.
like brian says you maybe able to clean the contacts. other than replace with similar relay.
i have a 982 and my gas relay died... replaced with same type and my frig works now... except in over 90 ambient... but thats my problem... lol
when u play in the sand .... you can get stuck
9-24-08 corpus christi padre island texas. wrecker had to haul me out!
'92 dp 5.9 cummins 190 hp....8mpg yuck!
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