jcthorne
Houston, TX
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Joined: 06/13/2005
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Hmmmm, nope. I higher concentration of ethylene glycol coolant and water will reduce the cooling systems capacity to move heat. 100% distilled water is about the best you can do but corosion is an issue with that. Proper pressure cap does far more for boiling point elevation than the coolant mix. 100% water will move about 30% more BTUs than a 50/50 mix of coolant and water. There are very few liquids that carry more heat per unit volume (at engine temps) than liquid water.
2008 Damon 3575 (38ft, forward kitchen)on Ford 22k chassis
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Brian in Michigan
S.E. Mi.
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Joined: 03/13/2003
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A recore radiator will probably be cheaper than a new one. If it's anything like mine was, It was plugged (didn't know till the recore ) and the fins were pulling away from the tubes, ( didn't know that either) The recore shop went from 3/8" to 5/8" cores. The radiator was a 4 core and still is. I did all of the band aids but the recore FIXED the problem
1990 GEORGIE BOY 28' 454 4BBL, TURBO 400 TRANS, Thorley Headers B&M trans cooler. Auto meter hooked to output of trans. Flowmaster mufflers
((((Was 7.5mpg Now 8.75mpg ))))
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jolooote
Miami, FL
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Joined: 01/29/2002
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Get accustomed to 'Fixin' that damn 454. I had one 14 years...'Fixed it for 14 years...never did get it 'Fixed'. Always one thing after another.
Joe&Charlotte, Nat'l SurfSide DE34D Ford 362HP 5speed
Rusty, Rosie, Snuffy Dogs
Leroy's a Conure
If a 'Little' is good, 'Alot' ain't better.
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mufasta
California
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Joined: 08/31/2006
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jcthorne wrote:Hmmmm, nope. I higher concentration of ethylene glycol coolant and water will reduce the cooling systems capacity to move heat. 100% distilled water is about the best you can do but corosion is an issue with that. Proper pressure cap does far more for boiling point elevation than the coolant mix. 100% water will move about 30% more BTUs than a 50/50 mix of coolant and water. There are very few liquids that carry more heat per unit volume (at engine temps) than liquid water.
I agree. My race motorcycle runs only water and Water Wetter. By far cooler than any amount of radiator fluid in there. The only reason I have anything in any of my vehicles is for corrosion protection. On the rare occasion I go to freezing temps., I drain some out and add some anti-freeze in.
Hell sometimes I wonder why I worry about corrosion. I'd much rather replace a radiator if it means my vehicles run cooler. Also, my current race bike has only had water and Water Wetter in it for 4+ years. Only run the engine 8-10 times per year and just did my 3rd radiator fluid change in May. Not one sign of rust and water flows easily through it. Yes it's smaller than my RVs but still. Now I only run distilled water which I've heard greatly reduces the risk of rust since there are no additional minerals in there.
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RJsfishin
Winston Or.
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Joined: 10/16/2007
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Nothing disipates heat better than pure water,....that is well known.
Also well known it that water not pressurized will boil out at 212 degrees, so even under pressure you can't run pure water in an engine that mite run 220-230 degrees on a hot day or up a steep hill.
I had a 454 MH for 12 yrs, and it ran hot(depending how you define hot) for 12 years. It was normal, nothing wrong w/ it.
In actuality, in the 12 yrs, it never did get hot, only because it never did dump the water,(coolant) and in reality, an engine is not really hot (as in overheated) as long as it doesn't dump the coolant.
So what is the problem ?
Rich
'98 Flair, 454, Onan Microlite 4k, Intel PD 9155 w/ wizard, Sta-power 1500 watt Inv, 2 6v batts, ammeters, KingDome/sat, Two Oly Cat heaters, and towing a '05 Jeep Liberty, or sometimes towing a New Lowe fishing boat.
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sc3283
St Louis
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Joined: 01/15/2008
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454 notes....temp sender is in the cyl head by the exhaust port...so it will read higher than expected when comparing to vehicles using the temp sender by the T stat housing or in the intake. The exhaust port is the hottest part of the engine and will heat the water hotter than any other location. When measuring temp at T stat housing or in intake manifold...the coolant has a bit of time to equalize in temp
if you do not use the MH in the winter months....put a 160 T stat in. Heat will be very marginal below 50 degrees outside temps with the 160
Also make sure to wash VERY well between the radiator and the AC condenser...you will be amazed at what collects there
I have had 454 from 82 until 04...so I have had my share of toying with them
04 D-Max Crew Dually
96 Monaco Dynasty 36'
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jcthorne
Houston, TX
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Joined: 06/13/2005
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RJsfishin wrote:Nothing disipates heat better than pure water,....that is well known.
Also well known it that water not pressurized will boil out at 212 degrees, so even under pressure you can't run pure water in an engine that mite run 220-230 degrees on a hot day or up a steep hill.
I had a 454 MH for 12 yrs, and it ran hot(depending how you define hot) for 12 years. It was normal, nothing wrong w/ it.
In actuality, in the 12 yrs, it never did get hot, only because it never did dump the water,(coolant) and in reality, an engine is not really hot (as in overheated) as long as it doesn't dump the coolant.
So what is the problem ?
Still not quite right. Pure water at 16psi boils at approx 250 deg. A 50/50 mix of coolant with water at 16psi boils at 255. Only a 5 deg rise and carries 40% less heat.
Like others have stated here, a mix of distilled water and water wetter (for corosion protection and surface tension reduction) will cool better than any ethylene glycol/water mix. It will freeze at 32degF so not practical for vehicles subject to freezing temp. But used extensivly in racing and antique vehicles.
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MrWizard
Van Nuys, Ca
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Joined: 06/27/2004
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Fewyears back was a nice thread about a total restore remodel, one of the things done was build an air dam behind the grill to direct air into the radiator , after seeing the pictures I did the same.thing to our 82pace arrow, it made a world of difference, a great improvement , basically a plywood scoop that shoves the air into rad , not letting it escape underneath or to the sides, it has 2 sides and MOST IMPORTANT a bottom that prevents air from going under the rad and forces all the air to go into and.thru the rad
Options, always have options, and the journey goes much smoother
....
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