Coast Resorts Open Roads Forum: Tech Issues: 30 amp power cord melted


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NORM WADDELL

PENSACOLA FL 32514

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Joined: 11/16/2000

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Posted: 07/25/10 06:24pm

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I did NOT say 'don't listen to advice on this forum"
I said SOME of it is dangerous, and suggested people
'be careful'

READ before quoting..............my advice STANDS,
supported by your posting.

L NORMAN WADDELL
30 FOOT ALLEGRO
SATURN TOAD
WIFE AND 2 DOGS SUGAR BEAR & COCO BEAR

garry1p

Oklahoma

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Posted: 07/25/10 06:25pm

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Do you know the gage of the wire.

I ask because an RV cord will be large enough gage while a regular 30amp cord may no be heavy enough gage.

Garry1p

1990 Holiday Rambler Aluma Lite XL
454 on P-30 Chassis
1999 Jeep Cherokee sport

smkettner

Southern California

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Posted: 07/25/10 06:31pm

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Was it the wire or the moulded end that melted? If it was the moulded connector at the pedestal then it way well have been a poor connection that generated the heat. Otherwise I believe the replacement connectors are better so just replace it and move on.

No matter the voltage or voltage drop the cord should handle 30 amps and the breaker should trip above that.

2001 F150 SuperCrew
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mexbungalows

las peñas, michoacan, mexico

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Posted: 07/25/10 06:40pm

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The entire run of cable from the receptacle to the breaker box in the coach must be EIGHT GAUGE not ten. I heard it was 100F in NYC. You should be able to get along just fine using propane instead of electricity to heat your water.

The socket and plug (both of them) must be removed to inspect the copper wire strands and insulation for damage. A new end can be made up.

Others on this thread have given sound advice about house loads, voltage, motors and volt meter monitoring.

A note to some posters here: Referring to wire gauge calculation tables works with RESISTIVE loads. Air conditioner compressor motors are not at all resistive; they are inductive loads and for AC motor starting purposes, demand a larger conductor choice because of motor STARTING amperage.

dougrainer

Carrolton, Texas

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Posted: 07/25/10 06:43pm

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You overloaded the available 30 amp service. The W/H pulls about 11 amps(Not on all the time). The AC pulls about 14 amps. TV maybe 1 amp. You then had the refer which pulls about 3 amps. You also had the Power Converter which will pull anywhere from 1 to 4 amps depending on the 12 volt load. So, just bare minimum, you were at about 30 amps, BEFORE you used any kitchen appliances or Microwave or any other 120 appliance. The WEAK point was the 3 prong connection where you connected the 50 ft to your existing cord. I will bet your existing RV shore cord had pitted, burnt contacs from years of usage and THAT was where the heat build up happened. Using the 30 amp 50 ft cord was not your problem. OVERLOADING the existing service was. Of course, the REAL experts here will state that your BREAKERS should have stopped this. They claim that is what breakers do in overloading conditions. YOU are proof they do NOT. Replace the end of the RV cord end and buy a new 50 ft 30 amp extension. Then monitor your load on your next trip----Run the W/H on LP and the refer on LP to free up another 15 amps of service. Doug

Gale Hawkins

Murray, KY

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Posted: 07/25/10 06:44pm

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When you put new ends on the cords just get an extra set and make up 2 -25' ext cords. We are normally ok with on 25' ext.

One AC and the fridge on electric will drop us to 111 volts starting out with 124 volts with one 25' ext.

Capt.Storm

Brockport NY.

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Posted: 07/25/10 06:58pm

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NORM WADDELL wrote:

Be careful about electrical advice from this site.
Some of it is DANGEROUS.Be careful about electrical advice from this site.
Some of it is DANGEROUS.

A LONG extension cord will cause voltage drop,......this
will cause the MOTOR loads in the R V to draw MORE current.
This can damage them..(Air conditioner compressor, etc)
Resistance loads (light bulbs, toasters, etc) will burn less brightly
or heat less, but will not be damaged.

You say your cord was damaged AT the connection.....this is
a sign of a poor electrical connection..... a high resistance
connection, which creates heat...... a LOOSE connection.....

Get new extension cord, or replace the connectors as required,
and be sure they are TIGHT connections.....then get a $5 voltmeter
and plug it into a receptacle INSIDE the R V, and watch it
as you add voltage......if the voltage drops below about 108
volts, reduce the load.....turn something OFF.....

IF you do this and keep watch on the connectors, you will probably
be fine.

I'm sure you could put up a example or two for us?
If you do see something "dangerous" step right in...safety first!

ol Bombero-JC

USA

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Posted: 07/25/10 07:07pm

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pulsar wrote:

Accepting that your 50' extension cord was a 30 amp cord, I would suspect the campground had low voltage.

Tom

Tom:
Why are you "accepting" that the extension cord was a 30 amp?

~

jdog

Some Place

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Posted: 07/25/10 07:26pm

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virginia1218 wrote:

WHAT KIND OF CORD DO I NEED THEN????? IS A 50 FOOT EXTENTION CORD TOO LONG??

WHAT KIND OF CORD DO YOU HAVE NOW AS FAR AS WIRE SIZE?? GET THE HEAVY WIRE AT #8 AND GO THE SHOTEST THAT YOU CAN!!! ALSO DON'T RUN YOUR WATER HEATER ON ELECTRIC, USE PROPANE. Your water heater draws alot of amps. Combining the A/C and water heater is to much for a 30 amp system, more so on a hot day.

virginia1218

Mahopac, NY USA

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Posted: 07/25/10 07:26pm

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My extention cord WAS a 30 amp 50 footer. The MH is a 2005 - purchased new - and we have not used it often as I am still working. We use it maybe 5 or 6 times a year for a 2 or 3 day weekend. SOOOO maybe we have used the MH for 50-60 days tops. The cord is in good condition - not pitted at all. Would getting a 50 amp cord help?

Can anyone give me info on the Forest River Lexington GTS model Class C motor home?

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